Need Help with Freelander TD4 HSE SW 2004

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yeah that's an easy part to replace. pop of the air filter, move the loom out the way, undo the Crank case, pull out the old sponge filter and replace with the mod part etc.
that's one of the things I'm hoping to tackle with Rob when we get to link up.
 
Found a split in a vacuum hose. followed it from the vacuum pump all the way to the other end and it there just before the other end that there is a split. bit difficult to get your hands where it is. nothing spare on it to trim back and looks well past its day. Called euro car parts to get 4mm ID silicone hose, they don do it. where can I get one from? is it safe to drive in the meantime ?
So many questions lol heeeeelp
 
I got mine on ebay. You can buy it by the metre. Not that many specialist shops in Shetland. Surely there must be somewhere close to you that does motorsport stuff?

As long as your brakes are not affected it's OK to drive.

Can you post pictures? It's easy to upload them to the forum. It'll help a lot with diagnosis and advice.
 
HI again Defender Pilot. is the pipe only for air. I was looking on ebay and the ones I found said NOT to be used for fuel, oil, acid, solvents or corrosive's?
 
Yes, air line is fine. It's just going to contain minute quantities of said air, hence "vacuum". Hang on a minute and I'll post a link.
 
Defender Pilot, Thank you again. Just ordered from the link you sent, wont get it till Tuesday but hey east its ordered. true gent
 
are these Crank case filter upgrades advisable or should I stick with the original foam stuff?
 
I'm also planning on doing a service on my TD4 should I use synthetic or semi synthetic oil? and is Shell Helix HX7 10w 40 synthetic a good brand to use?
 
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are these Crank case filter upgrades advisable or should I stick with the original foam stuff?
advantage of the bmw oil separator replacement .. is that ..
it don't need attending to .. as long as the valve itself remains in good order

keeping that breather system working well be important
for the turbo at least ..
'cause if much pressure builds up in the crankcase ..
the oil flow thru the turbo bearing gets somewhat restricted

and .. the engine has to 'work' .. i.e. pump
against that added crankcase pressure ..
more c.c. pressure also puts a strain on crank seals in such

should I use synthetic or semi synthetic oil?
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/7090671/?q=which+oil+td4&o=relevance&c[node]=9

i use synthetic .. fuch's 5/40 ..
reason being .. synthetic doesn't coke up like a mineral ..
so easier on hot turbo bearings ( for example ) ..
and probably doesn't build up on sensor surfaces that get splashed with oil
( cam. sensor .. maybe the crankshaft sensor? ..
( and the air temp sensor on models with the a.i.sensor be in the intercooler ducting

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

btw: LR dealer techie mentioned 5/30 semi-synthetic
( as in what they use )

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i get most needed items from
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk
good outfit

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Is that an Asda brand oil, and is that ok, I was under the impression oil had to be the best quality. and also could anyone send me a link for one of the updated Crank case filters please.
 
for one of the updated Crank case filters
Part number for BMW is B11.12.7.799.367 and they call it an 'Oil Separator' not a filter on the box. Comes with all the gaskets and rubber 'O' ring. .. cost .. about £23 ..
some find that a small notch has to be filed out of the housing
to fit it

Is that an Asda brand oil, and is that ok, I was under the impression oil had to be the best quality
just needs to be the right specification
that's: ACEA spec A3 and B3 with a viscosity band recommended
for the temp. range of your locality
( from the drivers handbook )

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