Some pics of my Disco :D

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Well, plus points of a transmission brake are it acts on all 4 wheels, as long as those wheels have traction.

Any wheels that don't have traction will run all the traction away through the open diffs, which ends in tears.

Hub brake conversion means that wheels with traction are locked and that's that.

Not uncommon for 4x4s to have transmission brake, don't know why however.

Cheers.
 
JonnyP said:
I didn't know about the x brake. Would that work better than a rear wheels hand brake conversion, do you know..?
Click to expand...

Transmission brake would be better if you ever wanted to work on the rear axle as it would still work on the front axle with the centre engaged.
But I think hub brakes are better personally (helps with handbrake turns hehe :cool:)
 
I'd prefer hub brakes, simply 'cos they're in use all the time and mostly work. Transmission brakes aren't used nearly as much and easily lose effectiveness, not just through the transmission (as Sam says) but also through filling up with water/mud etc. (My view anyway)
 
I have in my head that if the brakes fail n pumping them doesnt work n going down through the gears isnt going to stop you in time, the hand brake will help.. If i did that in a landy, i guess it would knacker the transmission..
I know that dont matter if you really have to stop, but i still would like to change my hand brake to the rear wheels..
 
You're gonna struggle to fit floating calipers to the rear, solid calipers are better/easier/more suitable/powerful, but the only way otherwise is hydraulic handbrake.

This would be an awesome handbrake but you would still need factory unit for MOT

maybe twin circuit front calipers fitted to rear, but then you're milky using half the circuit/pistons for service brake

This "could" work quite well but would probably end up with uneven pad wear...
 
You could fit a T piece to the original single circuit set up so they're running on two fully filled circuits then use a ratchet system on a remote mount master cylinder style set up in order to get full clamping force on the pads ?
 
Yeah for sure, I was just thinking of a system that would not be affected by pressure loss in the main circuit

Suppose one way valve could be employed, but at the end if the day if you lose a line to a caliper it's curtains for that circuit.
 
On my Jag diff the set up was a secondary set of pads and a small calliper than was just hand operated, not quite as good as a second hydraulic system but as its cable that would negate the factory fit requirement. You could probably adapt the top half of the jag calliper to bolt on to the LR one





2668413699_b62d8d3329arrows.jpg
 
yes, quite common on performance motors to have a secondary floating caliper for the handbrake next to the solid caliper for the service brake

best tool for the job in both situations, noice
 
Problem with hydraulic hand brakes are they can leak back and give way. Only road rally cars can be allowed to run one. A secondary hydraulic or just a cable calipers would work tho.
 
Right then, I've taken flange off output shaft and the shaft itself is solid. No movement at all. Which unfortunately means the play is in the splines of the flange and the actual shaft. It was bone dry in there so they have warn. How big of a job has this become??
 
Front transfer box flange? The shaft is removable so it's no more of A issue take out large circlip and attach a puller it will come out with the bearing. Leaving you a hole to fit the new one As for replacing it I can't see an issue with just swapping it out for another but some one else might no better
 
Well..... Took everything out replaced bearings an seal filled splines full of grease an tightened back up an everything's is ok. Feels like a new car!! It's bloody brilliant! All I can think is the nut was bottoming out when tightening up so I added an extra washer, burst it up an job seems to be a gooden!!!
 
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