Some pics of my Disco :D

Well I'm back from a great weekend on the lanes in mid Wales. The tyres where great. Mostly rock based so still havnt tested them in the mud but she climbed in and out of the infamous bomb hole on strata without any problems.

Sam, a little advise needed if you can help mate. I have a terrible rattle between gear changes and on a light throttle. I've been underneath and there seems to be a fair bit of play in the front output shaft from tbox. Am I right in thinking there is a tapered bearing there which will cause this if it's goosed? Cheers bud.

Hi mate

Pleased to hear about tyre success

Regards your rattle, it's hard to guess what it is.

I take it you mean the play is lateral, ie, the prop flops about a bit?

If you suspect this part, remove front prop, bang in diff lock and go drive, if it's cured it helps you to narrow down the fault.

Let us know how you get on

Ps: those bearings are not taper bearings iirc although I might have forgotten since I stripped my lt230 last year but they defo wear out eventually.

Yea lateral play. That was my next move to whip front front prop off an go for a spin. But as I jiggle output shaft about the noise is extremely similar so I think this is the cause but I'll get front prop off today and see.

i have just done my bearing on my t-box there not taper bearings (well mine wernt)

Yeah I was right then, they're just conventional ball race bearings, easy enough to pull out in situ

Front props off and been for a spin. Noise has stopped so looks like it is that. So it's easily done in situ then? Another job to do there then. Ha.

iv not done one in there as was doing clutch at the time. but i don't see why it wouldn't be plenty or room around it

I've spoken to a mate about this bearing and he said he had same problem so changed bearing but hardly made a difference. U rekon bearing housing or shaft wears down causing the excessive play?

Well, basically the flange is secured to the output shaft using a nut

The shaft is simply pressed into the bearing and is pretty easy to get out iirc

The other end is located in the centre diff on splines

If you remove the flange and seal you will be able to see the bearing

Iirc it is secured into the output housing with a large circlip, I think if you remove the circlip the whole lot will pull out using an appropriate puller

Have not got my LT230 manual to hand at the moment to double check

If centre diff for some reason has excessive wear it would cause similar symptoms of worn bearing, but only way I'm afraid is to dive in there and see

LT230 can be remove in an hour or so, I'd do that and repair it on the bench personally...

I'll get new bearings. Throw em in while box is on and if that fails then I'll take it off and have a proper nose about. Just gotta find the time now.

Mr Noisy said:

And the final problem was the handbrake, generally being useless **** due to mud, and me being fed up of rebuilding it all the time. Hence I completed my saving and finally plumped for an X-Brake.

I just fitted it this evening, took me two hours approx. Fitted fine with no probs, mud in the eye was the worst thing.

Far better so far cos it actually works, and doesn't jam on!

Click to expand...

Nice thread mate..

I picked up an x-brake for my D2 at Donnington, I've not fitted it yet, going to wait until I've rebuilt the t-box. Does the mouting plate block access to the filler plug?

Ta.

I had a similar issue on mine, I actually discovered the 30mm nut that holds the flange on had come loose causing it to move around. I Also replaced the bearing though as I bought one and it really is as easy as Mr Noisy says, the hardest part I found was getting the circlip out as its seriously man sized. But after that its simples.

Bennehboy said:

Nice thread mate..

I picked up an x-brake for my D2 at Donnington, I've not fitted it yet, going to wait until I've rebuilt the t-box. Does the mouting plate block access to the filler plug?

Ta.

Click to expand...

Hi pal, thanks

You will be very pleased with the X-Brake.

More of an improvement for us 200 guys who really do have awful handbrakes but the 300 onwards cable stuff are much improved also, especially when wet and muddy inside.

Mine used to freeze on aswell when offroading and overnighting in winter, bad times!

It does not block the filler plug, it obscures it but you can get a 1/2" ratchet in there no problem

SuperMark said:

I had a similar issue on mine, I actually discovered the 30mm nut that holds the flange on had come loose causing it to move around. I Also replaced the bearing though as I bought one and it really is as easy as Mr Noisy says, the hardest part I found was getting the circlip out as its seriously man sized. But after that its simples.

Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming that Mark.

Yeah one thing I need to improve on is circlip pliers.

I've got a shockingly awful pair of faithfull that have removeable ends and they wobble around and bend like nobody's business.

Need a proper box set of various sizes.

Often for super man size I use fine-nose pliers though

hmm didn't realise there was a circlip in, this may be why I cant get the 3 bolt flange of mine lol

finally got round to stripping the 2 axles down so got a few spares now

something for Sam



not sure on far right if its a new Teflon or a really dull chrome one :S, wors one is 2nd from left which has a slight pit on it (can just see it) just need to clean up and paint properly now

3 bolt flange?

assume you mean diff? we are talking transfer box!!

regards swivel balls, noice!

the far right will be teflon, for sure.

get the chrome ones properly brushed up and inspect them, if they are pit free inside the swept area they are keepers!!

ah sorry miss read, yeah im talking diff.

booooo to Teflon, still its a spare lol..hmm theres only one that's got light pitting, may try the metal weld filler stuff and polish it up see what it turns out like

pics of course

I didn't know about the x brake. Would that work better than a rear wheels hand brake conversion, do you know..?