P38A She’s Dead, Jim

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

BECM is v39 apparently.
How do you enter the code / disable the imobiliser/eka ?

I suspect that my issue is that I have the wring code

oakey · Nov 9, 2021

I think you battery is F****ed

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

oakey said:
I think you battery is F****ed

I got it literally 3 days ago.
Perhaps there’s a nefarious drain somewhere, but the battery cannae be buggered already…

oakey · Nov 9, 2021

I agree but the evidence says otherwise and wasnt there a spark when you connected it?

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

Very slight arc, yes

Rubberknees · Nov 9, 2021

awkwardbob said:
Hi, yes the RF Receiver is fully connected (I now have 2x Mk3, green dot ones !).

the battery is only reading 12.1V so I wonder if I should give it a little love.

I’m concerned that there are 2 EKA codes scribbled in the handbook, why would that change ?

can a dealer access read the EKA code from the becm if that has been changed snd not re-synched with the VIN ?

thanjs again

Bob

Is one EKA code and other radio code Thats what I have in my handbook
You have turned key in lock to left 4 times before entering EKA haven't you. This lets car know the EKA is going to be entered

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

Rubberknees said:
Is one EKA code and other radio code Thats what I have in my handbook
You have turned key in lock to left 4 times before entering EKA haven't you. This lets car know the EKA is going to be entered

Hi, yes there are two EKA codes handwritten in the users guide, and a different radio code too.

I’m sure if I could understand the process better, I could work it out. There just seem to be some variables I can’t quite get my head around, like why does it sometimes beep with every key turn and at other times sound the alarm if the door is opened.

and I still need to work out why the battery drained in the first place.

let’s hope JLR come up with the goods in the shape of a working code. -I’ve tried the two I have both with key entry and by trying to enter it in nanocom -although I may be doing that wrongly.

sorry, I’m rambling. ‍

Rubberknees · Nov 9, 2021

awkwardbob said:
Hi, yes there are two EKA codes handwritten in the users guide, and a different radio code too.

I’m sure if I could understand the process better, I could work it out. There just seem to be some variables I can’t quite get my head around, like why does it sometimes beep with every key turn and at other times sound the alarm if the door is opened.

and I still need to work out why the battery drained in the first place.

let’s hope JLR come up with the goods in the shape of a working code. -I’ve tried the two I have both with key entry and by trying to enter it in nanocom -although I may be doing that wrongly.

sorry, I’m rambling. ‍

Tis Ok see what JLR come back with then we'll take it from there

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

Rubberknees said:
Tis Ok see what JLR come back with then we'll take it from there

Aha !
I found how to try and ‘disarm’ in nanocom.
It’s in the utility menu.

somi pooped in the EKA code and it said it had worked -ie. it told the BECM to disable the alarm -so I know I’ve got the right code.

I thought this would let me sync my keys.

but it didn’t and I now have the Keycode Lockout message on the display.

so, one step forwards....

Rubberknees · Nov 9, 2021

awkwardbob said:
Aha !
I found how to try and ‘disarm’ in nanocom.
It’s in the utility menu.

somi pooped in the EKA code and it said it had worked -ie. it told the BECM to disable the alarm -so I know I’ve got the right code.

I thought this would let me sync my keys.

but it didn’t and I now have the Keycode Lockout message on the display.

so, one step forwards....

Key code lockout on dash means too many attempts made to unlock. First time you have to wait 30 mins for it to clear then longer and longer each try. I personally would now wait til morning for it to clear then try again

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

Rubberknees said:
Key code lockout on dash means too many attempts made to unlock. First time you have to wait 30 mins for it to clear then longer and longer each try. I personally would now wait til morning for it to clear then try again

Aye don’t worry, the beeping will annoy the neighbours.
at least I know the code is right as when I popped it in wrongly it told me the EKA was wrong.

it seems the gash info: French, LHD, Manual, etc may be down to low voltage (from a spanking new battery) will give it a good charging too and see what tomorrow brings

Rubberknees · Nov 9, 2021

awkwardbob said:
Aye don’t worry, the beeping will annoy the neighbours.
at least I know the code is right as when I popped it in wrongly it told me the EKA was wrong.

it seems the gash info: French, LHD, Manual, etc may be down to low voltage (from a spanking new battery) will give it a good charging too and see what tomorrow brings

Heading in the right direction. You'll get there

oakey · Nov 9, 2021

Open and close door after two unsuccessful attempts to stop lock out

Grrrrrr · Nov 9, 2021

awkwardbob said:
how do I check that all the lock micro switches are ok ?
(although they were fine until this issue)

Marty's lock test script is on here somewhere.

brianp38dse · Nov 9, 2021

Hopefully that will open ok

awkwardbob · Nov 9, 2021

brianp38dse said:
Hopefully that will open ok

Brilliant, Thank you !
oh and from the nanocom manual:

awkwardbob · Nov 10, 2021

Success !!!

The nice chap from JLR Historic vehicles came back with a third (different!) EKA code and one for the (long gone) radio.

tried inputting via the lock but no joy.

nanocon, however, is your friend.

Just in case anyone else ends up in this pickle here’s how to do it:

get in car, lock all doors manually.
Key in ignition but not turned
Fire up nanocom and navigate to:
P38/Gems/BECM/Utility
On the last page of utility, there’s the disarm option.
Enter the EKA and press Disarm
If it works, all the doors will unlock and you can resync the key in the usual way (unlock while pressing button for 5, turn to unlock and hold button for 5)

feel like I got out of jail there !

suspect I should look into a second key !

thsnks everyone for all the help, support and advice -this community really is a wee goldmine !

marjon · Nov 10, 2021

Well done for sticking in there

I wonder how many others are running around with what they think the correct EKA

Oh hang on that might be me

awkwardbob said:
suspect I should look into a second key !

and a new door lock

J

awkwardbob · Nov 10, 2021

Yea

marjon said:
Well done for sticking in there
I wonder how many others are running around with what they think the correct EKA
Oh hang on that might be me

and a new door lock
J

yeah it’s a worry that the ‘right’ code didn’t work with the lock !

maybe I rushed it or something

awkwardbob · Nov 10, 2021

I should also note that the BECM settings in nanocom now make sense, although the ‘Police’ option seems to be selected and probably shouldn’t be.

The BECM is unlocked and now shows the EKA and the fob code

P38A She’s Dead, Jim

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