P38A She’s Dead, Jim

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Had heard that nobody really knows what police option does so should not be selected.
Also that if its unlocked certain thing can not be accessed? but dont lock it until you are sure and had it confirmed by somebody with long trousers.
I dont have Nano so cant really comment. this is just from what I remember, and we all know how that goes sometimes.

J
 
awkwardbob said:
I should also note that the BECM settings in nanocom now make sense, although the ‘Police’ option seems to be selected and probably shouldn’t be.

The BECM is unlocked and now shows the EKA and the fob code
Click to expand...
If you are trying to do all this stuff with a battery voltage of 12.1 which is as good as flat, you are just going to dig yourself into a hole.
Once you have the FOB/EKA problem sorted TURN OFF EKA and the immobiliser in the BECM, it will save you a lot of problems. You will even be able to open and start the car with just the key if the FOB packs up. The alarm should be left operational so OK for insurance.
 
marjon said:
Had heard that nobody really knows what police option does so should not be selected.
Also that if its unlocked certain thing can not be accessed? but dont lock it until you are sure and had it confirmed by somebody with long trousers.
I dont have Nano so cant really comment. this is just from what I remember, and we all know how that goes sometimes.

J
Click to expand...
Police option should be off, another sign of battery problems.
 
Yes, I’m very much of the ‘if it isn’t broken...’ school of thought, so I won’t be tinkering.

going to change the VR on alternator from 13.8V to 14.7V

I’d read somewhere that turning off the EKA didn’t actually disable it, it just meant that you’d one less option if you got stuck. But again I’ve heard conflicting advice on that.

What I do need to do is work out what is causing battery drain. It’s not the Fob receiver, that’s the latest model.
 
awkwardbob said:
Yes, I’m very much of the ‘if it isn’t broken...’ school of thought, so I won’t be tinkering.

going to change the VR on alternator from 13.8V to 14.7V

I’d read somewhere that turning off the EKA didn’t actually disable it, it just meant that you’d one less option if you got stuck. But again I’ve heard conflicting advice on that.

What I do need to do is work out what is causing battery drain. It’s not the Fob receiver, that’s the latest model.
Click to expand...
Turning off the EKA removes the need for you ever to have to enter it but it only works if the BECM is not in a state where it's asking for EKA.
I run both my P38's with EKA and Immobiliser turned off which means that I will never again see the message "Engine Immobilised press remote"
 
If you have Nanocom communication with BECM, here's the quick way to check the latch microswitches:
  • Select BECM / Inputs / Door Locking / 2nd Screen.
Then you should get something like below, although the Nanocom screens vary depending on SW version.

upload_2021-11-10_10-41-49.png
upload_2021-11-10_10-42-36.png
All three microswitches show 12V when not operated, so go through the key actions and you should see them toggle to 0V. If any of them don't work, then it's either the microswitch failed, or wiring issue to the door outstation.

upload_2021-11-10_10-41-49.png


upload_2021-11-10_10-42-36.png
 
There is a thing ,that if u take the battery off within 17 seconds of stopping the engine it retains something or other and don't need codes or something ,,,Some one will know more than me about it .....bit late :oops:...
 
Datatek said:
Turning off the EKA removes the need for you ever to have to enter it but it only works if the BECM is not in a state where it's asking for EKA.
I run both my P38's with EKA and Immobiliser turned off which means that I will never again see the message "Engine Immobilised press remote"
Click to expand...

does that mean then that the BECM would never go into an ‘alarmed’ state in the event of another power failure ? -that you’d just need to re-sync the fob ?

That’s gotta be worth the price of admission alone
 
dubbleRR said:
There is a thing ,that if u take the battery off within 17 seconds of stopping the engine it retains something or other and don't need codes or something ,,,Some one will know more than me about it .....bit late :oops:...
Click to expand...
It's in the owners hand book and concerns the alarm, engine running not necessary, just the time from ignition off if I remember correctly.
 
awkwardbob said:
does that mean then that the BECM would never go into an ‘alarmed’ state in the event of another power failure ? -that you’d just need to re-sync the fob ?

That’s gotta be worth the price of admission alone
Click to expand...
The BECM in an "Alarmed State" is another thing altogether:eek: But yes you will never need the EKA code, just a FOB re-sync or maybe not even that. I have never needed to re-sync a FOB after disconnecting the battery although a re-sync has been needed for other problems like RF interferance:)
 
awkwardbob said:
Success !!!

The nice chap from JLR Historic vehicles came back with a third (different!) EKA code and one for the (long gone) radio.

tried inputting via the lock but no joy.

nanocon, however, is your friend.

Just in case anyone else ends up in this pickle here’s how to do it:

get in car, lock all doors manually.
Key in ignition but not turned
Fire up nanocom and navigate to:
P38/Gems/BECM/Utility
On the last page of utility, there’s the disarm option.
Enter the EKA and press Disarm
If it works, all the doors will unlock and you can resync the key in the usual way (unlock while pressing button for 5, turn to unlock and hold button for 5)

feel like I got out of jail there !

suspect I should look into a second key !

thsnks everyone for all the help, support and advice -this community really is a wee goldmine !
Click to expand...
Well done said you'ed get there:D:D:D:)
 
I heard it enables outputs for extra relays for police accessories, the alternating L-R flashing light thing they do, etc. Cannot find any wiring details for these though.
 
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