L322 2003 L322 Can’t open bonnet -battery flat

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I’ll clamber in and have another look.

The garage basically said that may be screwed and that getting the bonnet open could be a major performance.

I’m wondering whether I just try and cut through the retaining bolt thing and replace it
 
I usually use these points for charging, when I'm not using the trailer plug..
17328000268210.jpg
 
I personally think you will struggle to get any meaningful charge into the battery this way.
The original thought was to get a voltage in the system to check that starter terminal is battery direct.
Then the system could be powered up from there and a jump start done.

Then its off home to maybe a better place to sort the bonnet.

awkwardbob said:
I’ll clamber in and have another look.

The garage basically said that may be screwed and that getting the bonnet open could be a major performance.

I’m wondering whether I just try and cut through the retaining bolt thing and replace it
Click to expand...

Either way getting the bonnet open is going to be a PITA.
If your local breaker has a bonnet the same colour I know the option I would choose as quickest but its destructive.
As I said earlier you maybe able to reach the latch with a flexible recip saw, protecting the bonnet and grill well and you may get away with it.
But be prepared to destroy something.

J
 
awkwardbob said:
Ok, so I’ve now got my fully-charged NOCO HD (2000A) attached via the rear fusebox. I’ve used one of the stainless luggage tie downs as an Earth but I’m not sure if that’s good or not ? -I figured it should be fairly structural and I couldn’t find anything else obvious in the vicinity

I kinda hoped that lights would come on and the alarm go off or something but nothing at all. So either it’s not working, the battery is completely dead (it’s v. Cold today) or it’s just gonna take a whole heap of time.

Going to speak to a friendly garage to see if they’ve any smart ideas about how best to free up the bonnet catch -they were the ones who jammed it shut !
Click to expand...
Tie downs are in plastic molding so no good for earth point.
 
Ok. So I squirmed into the boot in the freezing cold last night.

The Noco has done hee-haw -likely due to the number of things you’ve all already observed.

My fusebox doesn’t have the point Kermit suggested, or, rather, there’s a box for trailer wiring there.

I tried to measure the voltage across the live and one of the bolts securing the fuse box but got a reading of 0V DC.

I think I need to bite the bullet and free the bonnet.

The garage laughed and wished me good luck when I reminded them it was an L322 but suggested sacrificing the grille to gain possible access to the cable which goes between the two latches (only the passenger side one is ‘latched’ and won’t release).

Failing that I think I need to saw through the bonnet spigot which goes into the latch.

Either way I should get access to the battery properly and can take it from there.

I’m not confident about the cable as accessing the cable from a donor vehicle was hard enough with the bonnet open !

Will keep you all posted -new grille ordered from the ‘bay for £30 -mine is an ugly fake grey colour so the new one will look nicer !

Thanks again

Bob
 
As you can always replace the bonnet with a new one later, rather than have one new - one broked…you could have one new - one with a bonnet vent …Now’s your opportunity , someone may even buy if off you later cover your cost.

99CCE667-0561-41B4-BDE0-1A6049A39D6B.jpeg


Smaller vent, right near the battery 😉
 
awkwardbob said:
I tried to measure the voltage across the live and one of the bolts securing the fuse box but got a reading of 0V DC.
Click to expand...

Did you test across the 2 clips of your NOCO?
Any bolt to the body in the back would work to get 12v in the system. Which I thought was the objective here to check the terminal on the starter.

As said before the bonnet is going to be a different issue and yes maybe destructive.

J
 
Success !

I removed the grille -and found that someone had been in there before.

The cable I was dreading fishing out was looped out of the secondary retaining latch.

A gentle tug and up the bonnet sprang.

Battery measuring a dismal 1.5V but the Noco got her going first go.

Engine sounds silky smooth.

Now about to move her the 50m I need to get a proper charger on her.

That could have been a lot, lot worse.

Thanks for all the help and advice !

-not out of the woods just yet. But headed in the right direction.
 
kermit_rr said:
Glad you got in without too much bother.
I would say that battery is dead and you're best of replacing it, given such a low reading

At least fully charge it up off the car, then measure the voltage after a couple of hours rest off the charger
Click to expand...
+1
But, there are chargers that have a "repair" function that allegedly brings batteries back from the dead.
Mine has it and I managed to "save" a battery on my mates VW Passat. Totally dead to "working & OK".
 
DanClarke said:
+1
But, there are chargers that have a "repair" function that allegedly brings batteries back from the dead.
Mine has it and I managed to "save" a battery on my mates VW Passat. Totally dead to "working & OK".
Click to expand...
I depends just how low it drops and for how long.. 10.5v is considered totally flat and nothing available to use, 12.0v is 50% flat and considered to be as low as you should take a lead acid battery
 
kermit_rr said:
I depends just how low it drops and for how long.. 10.5v is considered totally flat and nothing available to use, 12.0v is 50% flat and considered to be as low as you should take a lead acid battery
Click to expand...
It’s still on the charger for now but reading a healthier 14V.

In fact even after running for 10 mins yesterday it had recovered back to 12.9V.

Will give it a good blast then unplug and monitor overnight whilst attempting to re-do the bonnet latches and cables. -have a new first length which I understand is a real joy to route through the bulkhead !
 
awkwardbob said:
It’s still on the charger for now but reading a healthier 14V.

In fact even after running for 10 mins yesterday it had recovered back to 12.9V.

Will give it a good blast then unplug and monitor overnight whilst attempting to re-do the bonnet latches and cables. -have a new first length which I understand is a real joy to route through the bulkhead !
Click to expand...
The voltage while charging and the voltage immediately after a partial charge means nothing unfortunately. Ideally fully charged then measure the morning after, but at least and hour after. Then connect it back to the car and put the lights on for 5 mins. Measure the voltage again and see what it recovers to
 
kermit_rr said:
The voltage while charging and the voltage immediately after a partial charge means nothing unfortunately. Ideally fully charged then measure the morning after, but at least and hour after. Then connect it back to the car and put the lights on for 5 mins. Measure the voltage again and see what it recovers to
Click to expand...
As above^^^^ the 12.9 was just a surface charge that would quickly disappear.
 
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