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Does the BCU think its a manual, rather than an auto? Common problem, but worth checking. You will need a Nanocom or a Hawkeye from a friendly local to plug it in and see. Also check the wiring that runs around and over the top of the T box, that comes from the XYZ switch. It has a habit of...

Did you just replace the shuttle valve, or did you do the mod to resolve the problem once and for all as well. Often the problem is not actually the valve itself, but the multiplug connections to it..? See here for a simplified version of the mod...

IMO I don't think the removal of the EGR, and as you suggest the cooler will result in the engine taking longer to warm up. The purpose of the cooler, hence its name, is to COOL the exhaust gases before they are fed back into the inlet manifold, where temperature is crucial to fueling needs. I...

You need to try it when the system is hot, not cold, and then you should find it is easier, but it should be used occasionally to make sure it does not get siezed. The older D1 linkages used to seize up and needed to be stripped to unseize them, but the D2 linkage is cable and should not do...

Get it plugged in to either a Nanocom and read the codes, rather then guess, unless Fery's suggestion works, as it might well do, but you need to record live data to see what the problem is, and you can only record this on a Nanocom. Tony

A "B" with a line through it is almost ALWAYS a knackered BCU. They do not need programming as such. You do not need to buy a new one, contact Heathy (Paul) at Discovery 2 Parts on 01206 211623, and give him the model number of yours. He is almost sure to have a good used matching one you can...

+1, just leave the engine cover on. From an MOT tester, they are not allowed to remove it.... Tony

See here for a buying guide https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/ and get somebody with a Nanocom nearby you to plug it in for you BEFORE you part with your money. If the purchaser won't let you plug it in walk away......!!!! Tony

Surely once they have been used, they are stretched to/beyond their "elastic region", which is why with these and other head bolts they recommend that they be changed regardless? It is not unheard of head bolts that have been re-used breaking after a while, but I do hope for your sake they...

+1, they are so much better than springs, even though you should change them every 5 or 6 years. Tony

+1 Precisely.... Tony

See this from RAVE in relation to spring colours and fitment. I believe that the different lengths only apply to front springs, according to RAVE. Tony

I would be inclined in the first instance to find someone local to you to plug it in with Nanocom or Hawkeye and get the faults read after a "clear and drive", to discount old faults. Get live data recorded as well, and check the sensor readings at different revs including when it won't rev...

Great news, well done. In view of what you said about it dropping out of high, when you replace the cable make sure it is adjusted so that it fully engages in high and low to stop this. Tony

Common problem. Alternatively worst case scenario, grind the bolt heads off, remove the cross member and then with a cold chisel knock the captured nuts off, they come away easily. Simply replace with new nuts and bolts. Tony

They do stiffen up through lack of use. I can only suggest trying to move it back and forth by hand somehow from the top, probably best done whilst the oil is hot, and the engine is running, gear in neutral. I am surprised that the force has broken the bracket, but I suppose it is possible...

+1 looks like ATF, so gearbox rear seal I suspect, not T box. And Land Rover's don't leak, they just mark their territory......!!:):) Tony

You don't need to remove the bonnet, nor do you need to remove all the connections to the FPR, only the quick release onto the pipe on top of the fuel cooler, best done with a small open end spanner through the space above the fuel cooler and push against the clip, it compresses, and pull the...

To remove the linkage. First there is a clip on the clevis pin that holds the end of the cable into the U lever on the end of the cable where it connects to the T box. This clip just lifts up and away from the pin. Remove the pin so the end of the cable is now free. With two spanners undo...

IMO Nanocom is the better of the two but it is expensive despite there being a group buy going on at the moment with the manufacturers. The main difference is that with a Nanocom Evolution you can insert an SD card and record live data to the card whilst driving, this you cannot do with a...