I seem to remember they're all the same - 3 of each. Just make sure no one has mix and matched metric and imperial rods. They are in the book.....

If you're stuck take the cylinder off, (if it will come off without damage and the bleed nipple will free off) clean thoroughly and refit the piston, using clean brake fluid as a lubricant. That piston looks rather scored and corroded so I'd replace the whole lot sooner rather than later.

You can put the isolator in either cable - as long as it isn't bypassed in any way. On the other hand, as there is no drain on the battery on a series it won't go flat anyway so you don't need one! If you're getting battery drain and you haven't fitted anything that uses current with the...

On my S3 I've slid the gearbox back on a plank past the crossmember and dropped it down onto the floor. Seemed slightly easier than trying to lift the box out with a hoist.

Temp gauges are notoriously inaccurate - is it actually boiling?

If you've put halogens in you're draining more current so you ought to fit a relay (advice elsewhere on this site) Does the flash work?

As above - it should be EP90. Good luck taking the old one out, they will either drop out easily or they will require the strength of Samson and the patience of Job. (and a lot of releasing fluid). I had to rebuild one in situ once because the barrel wouldn't come out.

tottot is probably right - sounds like the diode pack is buggered. You can replace the diodes and regulator but it's a bit of a faff. Either replace or get it refurbed at an auto electrician (if you can still find one). The lucas alternators were used on a lot of old Brit cars so a trip to a...

I had the master cylinder come loose and the adjustment disappeared - it was a hot rear driver's side wheel that made me aware of the problem. Check the pedal adjustment at the cylinder operating rod. Do you have a brake servo?

I'd be looking at spring bushes - possibly on the left side as the suspension unloads on right turns but you would have hoped an MOT inspector would have spotted it. Look for worn bushes, worn pins and ovalled holes in the spring hangers. Unless the exhaust mounts are burgered and it's letting...

I have rebuilt one in situ because it wouldn't come out....

Strip, clean and lube. I had mine seize completely once but it came good with a bit of TLC and some grease.

Fit standard drive members - FWHs are more trouble than they're worth!

A mate of mine once fitted an alarm to his Golf - it had an external keyswitch like that.

The studs on mine are splined where the hub grips the stud. If you're lucky the splines on the stud are stripped and a new stud will sort the problem, if not the hub is stripped and you might as well fix it in position with a spot of weld or two 'cos it'll be cheaper than replacing the hub.

You need a carburettor specialist - I've used these before... http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/store/index.php

That would have done it! The colour codes do fade with time (or is that my eyesight?)

A photo of the alternator connections would help here.

Nipples all the way for me!

Volts from the alternator when the engine is stationary implies the regulator is fried - is it charging properly? It's possible to replace the reg but a new alternator is easier and you can uprate at the same time if you want....