What have you done on your 90/110/130 today?

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Used it to collect an eBay purchase of a set of wolf rims with decent Cooper STT tyres from Cheltenham. Five of those weigh a bit! The 90 passed 111k miles on the journey.

Now to get the wheels swapped over and decide what to do with my current rims.
 
Last couple of day's been sorting swivel housing big seal. Did NS last month for MOT no issues, however on OS other issues came to view. Brake flexi ferrule very corroded [ tester missed that] spring pan starting to collapse, patch of rot at top of turret. As it's off caliper will have overhaul.
What I would like to note here is how worthwhile it is keeping undercarriage oiled up. All 14 swivel housing bolts came un done and have/will go back as will caliper bolts. Even the nuts on the ring holding the shock turret came free [never been off before] Bump stop also came off.
Lower shock nut came free with some effort but as is usual hole in it's bracket needed a fix. I welded a bit of suitable pipe in and ground excess flat before fitting new pan.
Tip, Spray can cap fits just nice in axle end to keep the crud out while work in progress.
 

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Mrs been driving motor this week and says headlight crap.
1729939688205.jpeg

Light Grill off and trace earth back. Remove wheel arch and find earth cable broke. Now this was from main loom so unsure why side light/indicators still worked.
Lights now fixed

Now onto horn.
Remove front grill and once again find the earth cable broke. Fix,check and now good.

Heater.
Hot/cold controller cable must be stuck slightly. As winter is coming I just locked it over to hot.

Found hub plastic end cap broke so will need replacing soon
 
Hicap phill said:
Mrs been driving motor this week and says headlight crap.
View attachment 328861
Light Grill off and trace earth back. Remove wheel arch and find earth cable broke. Now this was from main loom so unsure why side light/indicators still worked.
Lights now fixed

Now onto horn.
Remove front grill and once again find the earth cable broke. Fix,check and now good.

Heater.
Hot/cold controller cable must be stuck slightly. As winter is coming I just locked it over to hot.

Found hub plastic end cap broke so will need replacing soon
Click to expand...
Air filter needs a bit of a clean while you're at it.
 
Took the injection pump of the tdi to send it away.
Changed the water pump gasket for genuine Land Rover as the previous one has lasted about 100 miles.
Noticed rear brake cylinder leaking. Had a spare fitted that but the brake pipe broke, had a spare but seems like it may be off a 110 or packaged up wrong. Had to bend it about to make it fit without the correct tools, not easy as it's one of them green pipes which I think might be steel? Whatever it was pretty strong and now fits, sort of!
 
I've started taking my transfer box to pieces this weekend. It's leaking oil and so far I have kept going by topping it up but it's getting to the point where new seals and gaskets are needed.

Right, seats out, cubby box out, mats out, handbrake lever out:
IMG_1330.JPG

You can see how juicy it looks down there. Transmission tunnel out:
IMG_1331.JPG

That area was pristine in January 2021 when I fitted a reconditioned gearbox. It's certainly got dirty since. Oil out next. The drain plug is getting into the festive spirit with is own little Christmas tree:

IMG_1329.JPG
On rubbing it between finger and thumb, there aren't any big lumps in there. It's more a kind of grey paste. So maybe thing aren't as bad as all that.

Props off next. Oh no, I can't. The captive bolts at the handbrake end have liberated themselves and spin freely. Hmm. How am I going to get those out? Fortunately I have a die grinder and a set of tungsten carbide burrs. So the nuts ended up looking a bit like this:
IMG_1333.JPG

I just ground them away until there was hardly anything left clinging on to the bolts. I can't find any 3/8" UNF bolts the right length in the house so I may have to order some.

Eager to get a scent of EP90 in my nostrils, I took the input shaft out:
IMG_1332.JPG
The teeth look fairly decent still. It's not shaped like a circular saw. Indeed, if I didn't know which way round it goes, I'd be hard pressed to tell which was the loadbearing side of the teeth. With all that done, I could start disconnecting earth wires, warning light cables and gear shift mechanisms, then undoing the bolts and lowering the transfer box so that the entire weight was suspended on a breather pipe. Forgot about that one. On bringing it inside and taking the sump off, the gears look like they're reasonably happy and will go back in for another round:
IMG_1334.JPG
Those bright spots aren't chips, it's just how the light is catching them. So far the bearings look OK too - the rollers are nice and round and shiny. I've seen roller bearings in the past where the case hardening has delaminated off the rollers in big flakes, so I'm always on the lookout for that sort of thing. But it looks to me like it just needs seals and gaskets on this occasion. Tomorrow I'll change the seals on the intermediate shaft (which is why its out of the vehicle) and start putting things back together.
 
Brown said:
I've started taking my transfer box to pieces this weekend. It's leaking oil and so far I have kept going by topping it up but it's getting to the point where new seals and gaskets are needed.

Right, seats out, cubby box out, mats out, handbrake lever out:
View attachment 330131
You can see how juicy it looks down there. Transmission tunnel out:
View attachment 330132
That area was pristine in January 2021 when I fitted a reconditioned gearbox. It's certainly got dirty since. Oil out next. The drain plug is getting into the festive spirit with is own little Christmas tree:

View attachment 330133On rubbing it between finger and thumb, there aren't any big lumps in there. It's more a kind of grey paste. So maybe thing aren't as bad as all that.

Props off next. Oh no, I can't. The captive bolts at the handbrake end have liberated themselves and spin freely. Hmm. How am I going to get those out? Fortunately I have a die grinder and a set of tungsten carbide burrs. So the nuts ended up looking a bit like this:
View attachment 330134
I just ground them away until there was hardly anything left clinging on to the bolts. I can't find any 3/8" UNF bolts the right length in the house so I may have to order some.

Eager to get a scent of EP90 in my nostrils, I took the input shaft out:
View attachment 330135The teeth look fairly decent still. It's not shaped like a circular saw. Indeed, if I didn't know which way round it goes, I'd be hard pressed to tell which was the loadbearing side of the teeth. With all that done, I could start disconnecting earth wires, warning light cables and gear shift mechanisms, then undoing the bolts and lowering the transfer box so that the entire weight was suspended on a breather pipe. Forgot about that one. On bringing it inside and taking the sump off, the gears look like they're reasonably happy and will go back in for another round:
View attachment 330137Those bright spots aren't chips, it's just how the light is catching them. So far the bearings look OK too - the rollers are nice and round and shiny. I've seen roller bearings in the past where the case hardening has delaminated off the rollers in big flakes, so I'm always on the lookout for that sort of thing. But it looks to me like it just needs seals and gaskets on this occasion. Tomorrow I'll change the seals on the intermediate shaft (which is why its out of the vehicle) and start putting things back together.
Click to expand...
Good work.
I guess now isn't the time to tell you the intermediate shaft o ring can be changed it situ.
 
Anaconda said:
Good work.
I guess now isn't the time to tell you the intermediate shaft o ring can be changed it situ.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately the rear of my R380 partially covers the front end so that's not possible on mine. I'm sure you can on some of the earlier ones. I'm positive I remember having the intermediate gears out of the transfer case in situ on our old Series 2 Forward Control back in the 1980s. I was lying on my back underneath and my brother was reaching down from above. Ah, happy days.
 
Brown said:
Unfortunately the rear of my R380 partially covers the front end so that's not possible on mine. I'm sure you can on some of the earlier ones. I'm positive I remember having the intermediate gears out of the transfer case in situ on our old Series 2 Forward Control back in the 1980s. I was lying on my back underneath and my brother was reaching down from above. Ah, happy days.
Click to expand...
Did it on my R380, you do have to slide the transfer box backwards a bit, so it's almost out but no heavy lifting needed.
 
Anaconda said:
Did it on my R380, you do have to slide the transfer box backwards a bit, so it's almost out but no heavy lifting needed.
Click to expand...
Well once it's unbolted from the primary gearbox, it's easier to bring it indoors anyway, so I can work standing up out of the rain. I'd been lying on my back too long at that point. I could grind a bit out of the flange on the back of the R380 - it shouldn't weaken it too much. But then I don't need to do this job very often - this is only the second time in 170,000 miles. By the time I need to do it again I might need a new R380 anyway.
 
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