Whats that and where? And when?
Trailer - challenge truck build
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Whats that and where? And when?
200tdi ayre
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i'm going to try to so ill hopefully see you there.
my only disagreement with plates on the bottom is removing the cage through the wings either a big hole has to be made or the wing will have to come off forward, which is still going to be a fair hole and in trying to make it fairly tidy if i can hence the sleeving which would be neater, are there any rejections scrutineering wise against sleeving ?
PembsLandy
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how did you do in your trial pembs ? my first one is on the 17th feb as long as the truck is ready, which i am hoping so
Had a great day. I only navigate, but we had a class win and lowest overall of the day. Really tough conditions, heaps of mud and lots of laughs.
17th of Feb will be on you soon. You'll be burning the midnight oil mate.
200tdi ayre
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Nice one mate
sounds like a tough day I know
plenty still to do but it's achievable
sible88
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There is an article about roll cages in this months LRM
200tdi ayre
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Great cheers ill pick it up
I've got Lro but not Lrm, although I was flicking through a feature on a challenge Lro showed and my cage is higher specked then most of the guys in the comp 
GreenHornet
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To my limited knowledge of alrc specs the preferred method that I would use is the min 5"x5" plate secured to similar welded over outrigger which is boxed in.
If you can get through scrutineering using the sleeved method then yes, for you it would be neater.
Also remember that the only holes allowed in the cage are 3/16" not within 4" of any bend or joint for inspection purposes only. I think I'm right on that if someone can confirm.
If you can get through scrutineering using the sleeved method then yes, for you it would be neater.
Also remember that the only holes allowed in the cage are 3/16" not within 4" of any bend or joint for inspection purposes only. I think I'm right on that if someone can confirm.
200tdi ayre
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Right we've done the timing tonight first we started by locking the injector pump at TDC a 9.5 mm drill bit fits perfectly for the job
Fot the injector cog onto the injector with the holes for the bolts in the centre of the slots, and nip the bolts up to just hold it in place.
Next the cogs were fitted, all parts have been thoroughly cleaned first
So here's the cam cog with the dot lining up with the brace for the cover bolt
And the crank cog lines up the woodruffe key with the arrow on the casing
The crank also has another lining up point on the flywheel with a small notch and the drain plug
You can just see the notch, this should line up with the centre of the hole, there are tools avalable to lock the flywheel in place but if your careful this isn't required
So here's a pic of the front before the belt
Now the cog holes and the belt rarely line up perfectly with the marks so you have to go to the nearest tooth, this can be slightly adjusted later
Then if you start by applying the belt to the crank cog and then under the idler, if you wedge the bottom of the belt underneith the crank cog this helps the belt stop falling off / te cog moving then keep it taught whilst applying the belt to the cam and then the injector cogs and over the top of the tensioner pulley, it may take some wedging to get the belt around the injector cog and as said earlier you may need to slightly turn the injector cog to make them line up, this will require loosening the injector cog bolts and turning the cog until it meets with the belt teeth. Then re-tighten.
The belt should be fairly taught but with up to half a turn of the belt at the longest gap. But slightly less than this is advisable
Once the bolts are tight turn the crank via the main bolt at the front this may take some spacers to hold the bolt,
Turn the crank 2 turns exactly until the notch on the flywheel lines up with the drain hole centre and lock in place, check the alignment of the marking notches and if needed adjust on the injector pump by slacking off the 3 bolts and adjusting, and that's it make sure all the bolts are torqued up and replace covers ect
Done !
first we started by locking the injector pump at TDC a 9.5 mm drill bit fits perfectly for the job
Fot the injector cog onto the injector with the holes for the bolts in the centre of the slots, and nip the bolts up to just hold it in place.
Next the cogs were fitted, all parts have been thoroughly cleaned first
So here's the cam cog with the dot lining up with the brace for the cover bolt
And the crank cog lines up the woodruffe key with the arrow on the casing
The crank also has another lining up point on the flywheel with a small notch and the drain plug
You can just see the notch, this should line up with the centre of the hole, there are tools avalable to lock the flywheel in place but if your careful this isn't required
So here's a pic of the front before the belt
Now the cog holes and the belt rarely line up perfectly with the marks so you have to go to the nearest tooth, this can be slightly adjusted later
Then if you start by applying the belt to the crank cog and then under the idler, if you wedge the bottom of the belt underneith the crank cog this helps the belt stop falling off / te cog moving then keep it taught whilst applying the belt to the cam and then the injector cogs and over the top of the tensioner pulley, it may take some wedging to get the belt around the injector cog and as said earlier you may need to slightly turn the injector cog to make them line up, this will require loosening the injector cog bolts and turning the cog until it meets with the belt teeth. Then re-tighten.
The belt should be fairly taught but with up to half a turn of the belt at the longest gap. But slightly less than this is advisable
Once the bolts are tight turn the crank via the main bolt at the front this may take some spacers to hold the bolt,
Turn the crank 2 turns exactly until the notch on the flywheel lines up with the drain hole centre and lock in place, check the alignment of the marking notches and if needed adjust on the injector pump by slacking off the 3 bolts and adjusting, and that's it make sure all the bolts are torqued up and replace covers ect
Done !
sible88
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Amazing! Gonna be doing mine soon, so your pics and description will be of great use.
200tdi ayre
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No worries
it's pretty simple really, line up all of the marks and keep the belt tonight whilst fitting turn over an even number of times and check they all line up again basically 
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Nice 'n' easy
200tdi ayre
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Noisy I hate it when your right !!
Next setback, I sent my head off to get skimmed, and whilst it was there it was tested and it was cracked
So after little deliberation and having good contacts I went and fetched this
It's one my dads best mate had after it failed not on rot in the boot floor and so needing an engine I've had it off him for a good price, I've driven it on trade plates and the engine revs well and is smooth so I'm happy.
It's an auto but has the earlier pump so all is good there, so if anyone wants any parts off of it there all for sale bar the engine, the auto box is smooth and the transfer box works well and engages easily so let me know if you want anything and ill give you a price
Next setback, I sent my head off to get skimmed, and whilst it was there it was tested and it was cracked
So after little deliberation and having good contacts I went and fetched this
It's one my dads best mate had after it failed not on rot in the boot floor and so needing an engine I've had it off him for a good price, I've driven it on trade plates and the engine revs well and is smooth so I'm happy
. It's an auto but has the earlier pump so all is good there, so if anyone wants any parts off of it there all for sale bar the engine, the auto box is smooth and the transfer box works well and engages easily so let me know if you want anything and ill give you a price
200tdi ayre
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After a wash it looks alot tidier, I haven't found any real problems with the chassis yet but the boot floor is knackered, rear arches 1 is very good and the other is good, it's a shame it's getting taken apart but I needs me an engine ! Tempted to drop my 4l v8 into it but I've got none of the electrics for that engine or the 3.5 on carbs. Someone can buy the complete thing off of me if you please but I want the engine
200tdi ayre
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That sad moment when
But on a brighter note 2 hours and we have this
Now some modding to make it fit the manual box and were good to go
But on a brighter note 2 hours and we have this
Now some modding to make it fit the manual box and were good to go
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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Sweet!
Are your engine mounts in the right place or are you still using short bell housing??
Are your engine mounts in the right place or are you still using short bell housing??
200tdi ayre
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Right after getting the engine out I've started getting it all ready to drop in onto the lt77 so off had to come the torque converter and the old backing plate
Now I have to fit the backing plate off of my 200 tdi to match up with the bellhousing bolts on the gearbox
They're quite different so you can't just swap from one gearbox to another without swapping these too
Also had to remove the dowling from 2 of the holes to let the new backing plate fit
And of course I've got a new clutch to go in with a few differences
Whilst I've been at this Haslam has been attacking the bulkhead to try and fix the rot,
So that's tonight's work anyway, pretty happy with the progress seeing as I didn't even own the engine that's almost ready to go in at 2 o clock
Now I have to fit the backing plate off of my 200 tdi to match up with the bellhousing bolts on the gearbox
They're quite different so you can't just swap from one gearbox to another without swapping these too
Also had to remove the dowling from 2 of the holes to let the new backing plate fit
And of course I've got a new clutch to go in with a few differences
Whilst I've been at this Haslam has been attacking the bulkhead to try and fix the rot,
So that's tonight's work anyway, pretty happy with the progress seeing as I didn't even own the engine that's almost ready to go in at 2 o clock
200tdi ayre
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Still using the short bellhousing mate to keep the engine as far back as possible, ill have to make up some mounts I think tomorrow to get it all fitted
jamesmartin
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why did you have to remove dowels ,other housing already got them fitted
200tdi ayre
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Dowel probably isn't the right word, they were more liners in bolt holes that guests inside the auto housing but not into the lt77 housing so the plate wouldn't push flat with them in
jamesmartin
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dowel is the right word there needs to be 2 if your not fitting 300 housing
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