Trailer - challenge truck build

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you can liner the blocks just as you could with the early 2.25 petrols etc they all use the same liner ,but any suitable liner can be fitted ,but if blocks cracked a new liner will probably do the same unless you can get crack welded first ,any lip means bores are worn ,id get another block bored /honed and fit +20 pistons, you give pistons to the rebores so bores can be machined and honed at least 1 or 2 thou to piston size + clearance(1 -1.5 thou)
 
jamesmartin said:
you can liner the blocks just as you could with the early 2.25 petrols etc they all use the same liner ,but any suitable liner can be fitted ,but if blocks cracked a new liner will probably do the same unless you can get crack welded first ,any lip means bores are worn ,id get another block bored /honed and fit +20 pistons, you give pistons to the rebores so bores can be machined and honed at least 1 or 2 thou to piston size + clearance(1 -1.5 thou)
Click to expand...

Yeah if I was repairing an engine I'd repair the one that was in before with the worn bores, not the cracked liner, as you don't know if it will crack again, so am I right in thinking I can remover the liners from the old engine and replace with new liners + 20 pistons and get it all bored to fit ?
 
they arent fitted with liners as std ,you fit them to bring bores back to std if wear is greater than largest + size piston available ,liners are bored out new ones pressed in and machined to std piston size ie you buy 4 std pistons and have bored to the new piston sets actual size ,if worn bore has wear less than say 30 thou you can get it done to + 40 pistons
 
jamesmartin said:
they arent fitted with liners as std ,you fit them to bring bores back to std if wear is greater than largest + size piston available ,liners are bored out new ones pressed in and machined to std piston size ie you buy 4 std pistons and have bored to the new piston sets actual size ,if worn bore has wear less than say 30 thou you can get it done to + 40 pistons
Click to expand...

Right gotcha, I wasn't sure whether they were fitted with liners as standard or not, I'm pretty sure there is more than 30 thou of wear in no1 so it looks like liners are the way to go, ill give the bores a good looking over first though to check for cracks, just theoretically how much would + 40 pistons increase the capacity of the engine ?
 
200tdi ayre said:
Right gotcha, I wasn't sure whether they were fitted with liners as standard or not, I'm pretty sure there is more than 30 thou of wear in no1 so it looks like liners are the way to go, ill give the bores a good looking over first though to check for cracks, just theoretically how much would + 40 pistons increase the capacity of the engine ?
Click to expand...
std bore is 3.562 inches +40 is 3.602 ,then pi r2 x height of piston at lowest point
 
Right I've had an hour or so on the second engine today checking out the 'crack' which dad believes is a water mark from where the piston has stood ? Anyway here's a closer pic
EAEA6FD8-EB63-43E3-8B3A-52B9785C41A0-1993-0000013B770090C7.jpg


As you can see its broken ad dotted line which agrees with dads thought if a watermark? So we're trying it, doing a compression test and
Keeping a close eye on the engine to see if any faults develop

So to clean up the engine I've removed the cam followers and cleaned them up :)

At the bottom of this pic is the cam which is turned by the crank via the timing belt assembly
A65C69EC-9AAE-408F-A796-5E6B2AEF4DAE-1993-0000013B9361FD0B.jpg


The bottom part is the follower that rolls over the cam, which pushes the brass part upwards with the shape of the cam, to which on te top is a indent that the rod sits in, which is what pushes your rockers on the top of the engine :)

EBCFEB90-83F6-4557-BC2C-D25577796DBE-1993-0000013BC0E1F968.jpg


3C2CC4BF-967B-41DF-858E-0C4318932D64-1993-0000013BA8962D0D.jpg


A bit cleaner now :)
EE6546B9-4E4E-44CD-83A5-98688BFC8F7B-1993-0000013B992A9016.jpg


You may be able to see a small F on the brass part this was on the injector pump side of the engine for referance
 
I've got the timing cover off today to put on te injector pump, replace the timing belt and tensioners so I don't have to worry about them in the future, it also looked like the front crank seal may have been leaking so I've replaced that too
1BDEE534-43D0-44A0-B17F-DBCF551F17FB-450-000000197FECFFD8.jpg


I'm timing it up from scratch as there was no injector pump on the block when I recieved it so no doubt it'll be out anyway so ill do a walk through when I do it tomorrow :)
 
Just read through this thread this evening. You have done an amazing job and I am both envious of the defender and the space you have to work in. I would like nothing more than to walk into a workshop and play with my Landy to this extent.

Great quality of workmanship and I can't wait to see it finished and trialing.

Brilliant
 
GreenHornet said:
Just read through this thread this evening. You have done an amazing job and I am both envious of the defender and the space you have to work in. I would like nothing more than to walk into a workshop and play with my Landy to this extent.

Great quality of workmanship and I can't wait to see it finished and trialing.

Brilliant
Click to expand...

Thanks mate it really means alot :) I'm not the greatest mechanic in the world, it helps alot with the kit that we've got for sure being able to knock stuff up and play about :)

I can't wait until its trailing either :p
 
Looking really good. The cage didn't take long to be fabricated. Looking forward to seeing it being installed. Bet you're dying to get back competeing, I'm off to a trial today.!!!!
 
how did you do in your trial pembs ? my first one is on the 17th feb as long as the truck is ready, which i am hoping so :)

i have a question for you roll cage experienced guys, what is your method/ perfered method for mounting the cage to the chassis ? i've been looking in depth in the blue book and alrc pages to work out which to go for but i am unsure, i can pretty much fabricate whatever i need to to make it work and so options are open, i of course want to be able to remove the cage where needed and so some kind of bolted arrangement is required.

one suggested by the manufacturer and one that i've seen on the alrc page is having a smaller diameter tube exactly the same size as the internal diameter of the cage welded to the chassis and then the hoops are slotted over the top with a bolt through the tubes to hold it in place but i don't really like this idea as it is relying on 1 bolt on each corner to hold the weight + issues with creating a fulcrum for the cage to rotate on, even though it will be sleeved its not ideal in my mind so i was trying to create something stronger that doesn't rely on 1 bolt plus i don't fancy drilling holes through the tube, integrety ect

so what are your methods ?
 
Some I've seen have like a square u share braket th sit over the out rigger and bolt through,

Just thought why not weld a plate on the base like the middle hoop and rear legs and weld a plate on the front out rigger and put 4 bolts through, then all 6 legs are attached the same.
 
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