P reg P38 2.5l diesel

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WayneRR4x4

WayneRR4x4

Active Member
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Ok, so I've sorted one problem already, thanks to the knowledge of the forums (P38 RF sensor problems), so I thought I'd pick your brains again.
I've already decided (after getting a £350 - £400 quote) to replace the headliner material myself, its sagging, went online, watched a few "How to...." videos and thought, I can do that. So any hints and tips or possible pitfalls to avoid, would be great, sourced the bits online, already been advised to use hi-temp adhesive to stop it happening again.
Next problem, the passenger front door. Current owner had a problem with the electrics, nothing works on this door, windows, mirror, central locking, so he checked and found that the circuit board in the door is corroded, got another, fitted it, but no joy, any ideas?
Problem with the radio too, the lcd screen is naffed, which means I cant key in codes etc, does this mean a complete replacement of the radio, or can I replace the screen, is it an easy DIY fix?
I'm sure there will be more, if anyone knows of anything I should check "just in case", then let me know.
 
Head lining has nothing to do with the glue although HT glue would better. It is the foam backing on the cloth that deteriorates and lets go. All the residue of this MUST be cleaned off before the new cloth is glued in place. If it is a Clarion radio they can be sent to Clarion UK service centre and re furbished with a warranty for around £100.00. Windows maybe window switch pack in centre consul. Central locking maybe just fob out of sync. You need diag on this to see what or what not has been disabled in BECM. And work from there. It may get expensive.
 
Yeah, the guy on the "how to..." vids was clear about scraping/brushing all the old foam backing off.
The central locking works, just not on that particular door, although I'm going to fit the £10 remote do-hicky to save me having to pay £300+ for an upgraded remote sensor.
Not sure of the make on the radio, will find out when I see the truck on Saturday.
 
Martin on flebay is a good one for the headlining a few on here have used his stuff, there are others on here that are good with electrics they will point you in right direction when you get the motor
there is a good step st step on the head liner in Tech Archive top left on this section
 
when you do the roof lining, *before* you spray on the glue, make sure you practice first how you are going to lay it. you need to pull it tight and work it in. you get one shot with the glue. I found when I did the classic I started at the back and worked forwards no more than 6 inches at time working the headlining into the contours. if you spray glue over the whole biscuit board and then try to lay it in you'll end up in a bit of a pickle.

practice first, then when you are comfortable with your process start.

or just go for it and use the remaining glue in a huffing bag. then you just wont care how it worked out.
 
Is there somewhere I can get info on tyres? Need to know what sizes (and prices) will fit the rims I have.
The truck seems to be on standard 16 inch wheels with road tyres, and the guy is also throwing in a set of D2 18 inch rims, says these will fit the P38.
All good so far, but I want to fit so Grabber AT's or similar on the 18's, (bad weather driving and a little easy off roading) one guy on another forum has a modded P38 with 2 inch lift, and he says his 255/60/R18's are fine, will these be ok on a vehicle with standard (so far) suspension? One piece of advice is to fit AT's to the 16's as this will be "a lot" cheaper... how much is "a lot" and do I risk rubbing on arches etc with the 18's?
 
WayneRR4x4 said:
Yeah, the guy on the "how to..." vids was clear about scraping/brushing all the old foam backing off.
The central locking works, just not on that particular door, although I'm going to fit the £10 remote do-hicky to save me having to pay £300+ for an upgraded remote sensor.
Not sure of the make on the radio, will find out when I see the truck on Saturday.
Click to expand...

Look at the plug connections behind the trim at base of passenger A post. Check for moisture damage.
 
ukadamwest said:
when you do the roof lining, *before* you spray on the glue, make sure you practice first how you are going to lay it. you need to pull it tight and work it in. you get one shot with the glue. I found when I did the classic I started at the back and worked forwards no more than 6 inches at time working the headlining into the contours. if you spray glue over the whole biscuit board and then try to lay it in you'll end up in a bit of a pickle.

practice first, then when you are comfortable with your process start.

or just go for it and use the remaining glue in a huffing bag. then you just wont care how it worked out.
Click to expand...

The method on the "how to..." vids was to lay the material on the board (after scrubbing off the old foam backing), then fold halfway so that half the board is exposed, then spray the exposed board and material, leave to dry and then lay together, starting at the middle and working out, easier if you have a second pair of hands. Once one half is on, fold unglued half back over itself, spray second half of board and material, repeat process, leave to dry, then cut off excess, and stick it back in. It was more involved than that, but you get the jist.
 
WayneRR4x4 said:
Is there somewhere I can get info on tyres? Need to know what sizes (and prices) will fit the rims I have.
The truck seems to be on standard 16 inch wheels with road tyres, and the guy is also throwing in a set of D2 18 inch rims, says these will fit the P38.
All good so far, but I want to fit so Grabber AT's or similar on the 18's, (bad weather driving and a little easy off roading) one guy on another forum has a modded P38 with 2 inch lift, and he says his 255/60/R18's are fine, will these be ok on a vehicle with standard (so far) suspension? One piece of advice is to fit AT's to the 16's as this will be "a lot" cheaper... how much is "a lot" and do I risk rubbing on arches etc with the 18's?
Click to expand...

18" wheels with those tyres will not rub anything. 18" wheels are an alternative standard fit on the P38. Is your car on air or has it been bastardised?
 
I would recommend that you download the Land rover RAVE workshop manual. It has wiring diagrams and mechanical info. You are sure to need it.
 
WayneRR4x4 said:
The method on the "how to..." vids was to lay the material on the board (after scrubbing off the old foam backing), then fold halfway so that half the board is exposed, then spray the exposed board and material, leave to dry and then lay together, starting at the middle and working out, easier if you have a second pair of hands. Once one half is on, fold unglued half back over itself, spray second half of board and material, repeat process, leave to dry, then cut off excess, and stick it back in. It was more involved than that, but you get the jist.
Click to expand...

you can start in the middle and work out.. just think how you are going to keep the biscuit board and the headlining separate.. they touch. they stick. unpeeling a misplaced section will tear the foam. When I did the Classic I started at the back as that didn't have the sunvisor recesses so allowed me to get smooth and pull tight then as I worked up and around the contours allows it to work in. here's my before and after

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/another-classic-being-brought-back.269600/page-4#post-3343998
 
davidsmith1307 said:
Welcome to Land Rover ownership. Buy spanners.:)
Seriously, unless you are minted and can afford to get all jobs done by a mechanic, follow @wammers advice and download RAVE.
Click to expand...

Already on it, buying a full copy of RAVE plus a lead to hook up my laptop to do diagnostics. I'll admit I'm not the greatest when it comes to car repairs, but I can do the basics.
 
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