KV6 Freelander, no drive in any gear! 2WD conversion

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Hi all,

I've decided to heed your advice and check those 2 sensors that i never got a response off, the intermediate speed sensor and fluid temp sensor. I've actually found and already ordered an intermediate speed sensor off Flea Bay but as for the fluid temp sensor... can not find this anywhere on the Internet..
Does anyone know, if the Jatco was drained of all fluid, and if I then test the sensor with a multimeter, would it be normal that i get no reading at all if there's no fluid in the gearbox?
Thanks,
Cage.
 
Hi Zefrench,
Yes! If you could get me the part number..great! If you could also get me the part number and someone who sells it (2nd hand Ok as long as works unlike mine),..excellent!
It would be too much to miss to not change these 2 sensors before I put the transmission back in. These are the 2 that i've consistently received nil responses from whilst all the others have provided a response when i tested with the multimeter.
Interestingly, the cooling fans coming on full blast and staying on full blast is consistent with what LandRover say about the conection of the fluid temp sensor to the ECU - that, if there's nil signal from the Jatco fluid temp sensor, then the ECU will send a signal to the cooling fans for full power as it thinks the transmission is overheating. I believe that in my scenario, the fluid temperature sensor is suspect here and would like to renew it.
 
The sensor is part of the wiring harness according to post on the Volkswagen forums for the 09A. Volkswagen part number 09a-927-363. Lots and lots of hits on the net with that part.

This is one hit on a search, never bought from there:
https://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=803043



2004 Shift problem? - TDIClub Forums

That post has picture about temperature fluid sensor and lots of info, I suggest to read it for sure! Where it is, etc etc,


The following pdf has a list of the Jatco JF506E parts.

http://natpronet.com/trans/JF506E.pdf

If you look in it there, the wiring harness is compatible with Volkswagen, Land Rover, Jaguar and rover, but not Mazda. I find that Pdf very useful for cross compatibility chart.



VW Jetta 2002-05, VW GTi 2002-06, VW Golf 2004-06 have that transmission. Since there are so many of these in here in Canada that is what I am one day going to buy from a scrap yard to practice dis-assembly and testing on when my transmission goes. You might be able to get a harness from scrap yards in Australia.

I got a few hits looking for JF506E and Australia, let me know if you need more details with finding sites, being in IT, that is the one part I can help the forum.
 
More interesting reading, Rover 75, same transmission:

ld123 said:
Hi Tim Lorenzo again , I located the problem . Follow the procedure for reverse piston replacement only move inward after removing the reverse / high clutch and drum assy . you will remove the first planetary gear revealing the low clutch drum. My circlip had completely broken through the slotted seat and allowed the first clutch plates to move completely out of the drum causing the loss of all forward drive gears including the "limp mode " while my reverse stayed intack . the gearbox does not have to be removed . only need to replace the low clutch drum . The vehicle threw no codes because it was a strictly mechanicle failure. sorry no pics yet but as soon as I finish the job I post a complete workup with pics . good luck!
Click to expand...

2001 Auto Gearbox Diesel Strip Out - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums
 
Hi Zefrench,
reverse piston is all good, the gearbox guys checked that out and tested all of the solenoids. Thanx for that link by the way, you helped ease my paranoia that the fluid temperature sensor is part of that wiring harness.. when i searched and searched before, i saw that wiring harness but i didnt think the fluid temp sensor was part of it since all the other sensors are sold on their own - thanks for that, i've already ordered it... and while i was at it, i decided to go ahead and order the other 3 sensors as well, the turbine speed and the intermediate speed sensor as well as an automatic transmission filter... heck since this much work to open up the Jatco, might as well change all of the sensors, even the ones that work, as they're only about $30 or so each..
The IRD is fine, we pushed the vehicle about a metre where it presently sits as we repositioned it, the IRD was connected, doesn't move in "P" position, i turn one driver's side wheel and the passenger's side wheel turns in the opposite direction... no weird noises, clunks, etc coming from any part of the drivetrain when i drove it a few months ago..
Gosh the PG1 gearbox in my 1.8 Freelander is so simple compared to the Jatco hey?
Just out of interest, i know that RAVE are pretty particular about the fluid they specify to be used. I didn't use the RAVE recommended one, instead i bought a bottle of Nulon Premium ATF which had the recommendation on the rear of the pack "Ok for Jatco transmissions" as well as "Ok for GM, Land Rover, etc". Surely this couldn't have harmed the fluid temp sensor, could it, and perhaps the intermediate speed sensor as well?? Btw, what line of I.T work do you work in? I completed my A+ CompTia hatdware certification many years ago, like 2002, and worked running my PC repair business for a few years but got tired of that and now I'm a public servant not in I.T or anything like that.
 
If you read the 09a forums and the Mazda forums you see posts about folks using different ATF. Someone here used something else altogether too (was it Nodge68?)

As far as it I support an it product working at a software vendor. I always worked corporate, never dealing with consumers like you.
 
zefrench said:
If you read the 09a forums and the Mazda forums you see posts about folks using different ATF. Someone here used something else altogether too (was it Nodge68?)

As far as it I support an it product working at a software vendor. I always worked corporate, never dealing with consumers like you.
Click to expand...

I use Carlube ATF-U. It works fine and costs less than half the LR stuff.
I'm not sure if it's available in Australia?
 
Another thread on fluids:
Cheap approved X-type ATF found! - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF

The key is to remove all of the old fluid, including what is in the torque converter : neat trick here using the transmission cooler:


From:
The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - Autobox problems - possible cause?

When all was fit tigether, I filled the system according to this procedure:

1. Drain old fluid (approx 4 liters)
2. Refil unit with fresh fluid (approx 4 liters)
3. Disconnect lowest line on oil cooler.
4. Put a clear hose on the oil cooler outlet and into a can
5. Start engine and let it idle until 3-4 liters are pumped out. The fresh fluid in the box will displace out the old fluid in the converter and oil cooler.
6. Reconnect line to oil cooler
7. Refil unit with fresh fluid with same amount as pumped out.
8. Set fluid level according to Rover procedure.

When I did this, I got out nearly 4 liters more of black fluid from the unit. It seems that the fluid which ran through the clear hose at the end, was much clearer than at startup. It might be handy to have an assistant starting and stopping the engine as you will pump out the 4 liters pretty quick. I guess i took 10-15 seconds. I have now 8 liters of black fluid on cans...
Click to expand...
 
Thanks again ZeFrench and Hippo, i guess it's still not fixed but I sense a feeling I am on the right track and am grateful for all the assistance from yourselves. I haven't got the sensors yet in the post and unlikely until next week so no work on the KV6 this weekend. Thanks to everyone here, now I know with confidence that there are other ATF fluids out there but the only 1 i thought i could only use. Will post an update shortly, hoping anyone seeking answers about their Jatco or Freelander can find this site and these posts useful.
 
I would have thought the temp sensor would measure air temp if there's no oil in the auto. I would still expect to get a resistance reading. It just measures temp of what it's touching.
 
Hi Hippo,
same here. Last few days i received the intermediate speed sensor in the mail but during the coming days i expect to receive the fluid temp sensor and the other 2 sensors next to the intermediate that i plan to also replace. Coupled with that, i've also ordered a new filter for it. So this weekend, I've been removing the cylinder head on my 1.8 K series and am cleaning it today, next week the head is going back on with new bolts and some (very light coating) of Permatex Ultra Copper and new MLS and shim, also new gaskets, new water pump new oil pump gasket, etc, etc, etc. With the KV6, it's consistent with the two fans coming on full that the fluid temp sensor has failed, the 2x cooling fans would always come on at full blast, makes sense.
 
Hippo said:
I would have thought the temp sensor would measure air temp if there's no oil in the auto. I would still expect to get a resistance reading. It just measures temp of what it's touching.
Click to expand...

You're back! Over the last couple of weeks all the Freelanders that have broken down are still sitting idle!
 
GrumpyGel said:
You're back! Over the last couple of weeks all the Freelanders that have broken down are still sitting idle!
Click to expand...
Fleeting visits for a bit while I sort me own hippo out and other things. He recently passed his mot. 10th pass in a row. Admittedly I did take me hellfire missiles oft for the test as certain software versions int permitted. ;)
 
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I never thought I'd say this but they're quite fun to work on let alone saving you $$$ when you can do it yourself. Getting my hands dirty on my 1.8 today is a piece of cake.. knowing i correctly set the 3x timing belts on the Kv6 not too long ago, removing the timing belt on the 1.8 was a piece of cake literally as is the work required to get to the head gasket.. Simple! My findings though : K-seal did block the tiny coolant passages in the 1.8 K series cylinder head, so, whilst K seal helped with plugging the weeping coolant from the cylinder head due to lost torque of the bolts, it's gone and plugged 2 of of 8 of the tiny (pencil diameter sized) coolant passages in the cylinder head now i know why it wanted to overheat even after the coolant weeping stopped courtesy of Kseal as well as even after i bled all air out of the system correctly..
 
Hi all, regarding the Jatco JF506E, how hard would it be to renew the wiring loom that carries on it the fluid temp sensor? I have the parts, 3 new speed sensors and the fluid temp sensor which is part of the wiring loom, and while at it, i also have a new auto trans filter. I see it seems pretty straightforward in fitting the 3 speed sensors, the filter looks quite simplified, but the wiring loom. I understand the wiring loom that carries on it the fluid temp sensor starts from the solenoid area, thus, it appears i may also have to remove the fluid pan for the purposes of removing the old wiring loom and fitting new? Is there a special path it takes from the solenoid (fluid pan) area to the area where all the speed sensors are connected? Will I be required to remove any gears or gearsets in order to remove/fit the wiring loom? Anyone with any experience on this highly appreciated. Or, should i take it to the pros with the attachments?
 
For real, i had to mention this, one female person I know rang this garage once to enquire about getting her Japanese four wheel drive repaired which had coolant weeping from the head. The guy on the other end of the phone kept referring, during the conversation, to the work as "head job". She didn;'t know what to think! Obviously, what the mechanic guru really meant was "head gasket renewal inc head skimming"... needless to say, she got the wrong idea and went to a mechanic she stated was more respectful...!
 
niccage said:
Hi all, regarding the Jatco JF506E, how hard would it be to renew the wiring loom that carries on it the fluid temp sensor? I have the parts, 3 new speed sensors and the fluid temp sensor which is part of the wiring loom, and while at it, i also have a new auto trans filter. I see it seems pretty straightforward in fitting the 3 speed sensors, the filter looks quite simplified, but the wiring loom. I understand the wiring loom that carries on it the fluid temp sensor starts from the solenoid area, thus, it appears i may also have to remove the fluid pan for the purposes of removing the old wiring loom and fitting new? Is there a special path it takes from the solenoid (fluid pan) area to the area where all the speed sensors are connected? Will I be required to remove any gears or gearsets in order to remove/fit the wiring loom? Anyone with any experience on this highly appreciated. Or, should i take it to the pros with the attachments?
Click to expand...


A lot of pros in transmission actually have not worked on our transmission. What they do around here is refer to transmission repair books. I tracked down what book they use, please note I have not bought them yet. But this is supposedly what they use. US$30 for each book, also available in PDF at that price for download.

Did you the modification someone did by moving the fluid temp sensor in one of those links I posted earlier.? It was moved to an easier location to replaced.


There is a main book and an update
https://www.atsg.us/atsg/catalogsearch/result/?q=Jf506e

The Volkswagen 09A self study is rather light on this

The. Mazda Automatic Transaxle Workshop Manual JA5A-EL-1738-1E-02D has some tear down procedures (please althought the physical layout is the same most of the actual electronic from the Mazda are not compatible with Landrover, whereas the Wolkswagen electronics are mostly compatible)
 
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