KV6 Freelander, no drive in any gear! 2WD conversion

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The Mad Hat Man said:

"This message is hidden because Fur Trapper is on your ignore list."

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He's not on the list. Only one on it and it's not him.

I could see 2 links. One has 1 post by you and the other has 2 posts.

Thanks Hippo and everyone else. I'm going to go siple first, and test the solenoids and sensors and will tell you what range i'm using on the multimeter. There is drive through the IRD- tested. The fluid is fine and brand new the recommended one as well. An auto specialist guy actually told me to try testing the manual valve and explained how, so, I guess inspired by Hippo's video, I decided to post a short video myself of how to check the manual valve. Here it is: Jatco Auto Gearbox Valve Body Test KV6 Land Rover Freelander - YouTube
The torque converter itself actually became separated from the gearboxand came out itself, but when reassembly took place, i made sure i properly bolted the torque converter to the gearbox then to the flywheel. Thanks again everyone, will post updates.

Hippo, one of the cases of the auto that i resealed is the one with the blue chalk marks. Cheers, Niccage.

Update:
I re-tested all of the solenoid and sensor resistances and carefully selected the correct options on the multimeter. The multimeter has4 options for testing resistances in terms of range, they are: 200, 2000, 20K, 200K. I selected the option 2000 and for the following, i received the following results in OHMs,

Connector C0243
Pin 1-2 turbine speedsensor = 576
pin 3-4 intermediate speed sensor = no reading. No results for this one. Tried testing + retesting still nil resultsat all. Tried switching the multimeter to other options still nil results.

pin 5-6 vehicle speed sensor =578
pin 7-8 fluid temp sensor = nil read at all, nothing. Repeated tests continuallyresulted in nil reading.

I then selected the 200 option on the multimeter for the following, not 200 K but 200 only, with that ear type symbol next to it meaning ohms, I think Hippo knows how to inputthat in to the keyboard i have no idea..

These are the results withthe 200 option selected. Connector C2043
Pin 9 - 18 shift sol. valve A - 18.0
pin 10 - 18 - shift sol. valve B = 18.2
Pin 11 - 18 shift solenoid valve C = 18.4
pin 12 - 18 - low clutch timing solenoid- 18.1
Pin 13 - 18 - 2 to 4 brake tim. sol. = 18.1
pin 14 - 18 - reduction timing solenoid valve - 18.0
Pin 15 - 18 - line pressure sol. valve = 04.0
pin 16-18 - 2 to 4 brake duty solenoid valve = 04.0
pin 17 - 18 lock up sol. valve = 14.4

For connector C0932 i received absolutely nothing. Nil hits at all. I know i tested it corrected with the positive and negative and correctlyfollowed Hippon's kind free advice, and still nothing. Nothing at all for the ones pins 5-20, 21-20, 24-20, 39-20, no any of the "pin 17" series.

Could faulty solenoids be causing all of this?

Cheers,
Niccage.

just a thought you did reconnect the gear leaver didn't you

and the earth strap?

G'dayTeddy, now that you mentioned it, I left the gear cable disconnected upon running the 2nd test - Okay, lol, i guess it'll be a lot of laughs at me now... hehe But to be fair, I;m not actually a mechanic but just a DIY guru or abit of one anyways.. I'm actuallyon leave from work this week and trying to make the most of it.. And have 2 Freelanderrs, the KV6 and it's younger brother the baby 1.8... Even though people whinge about these cars a lot, they're great fun! And what better satisfaction than knowing you've been able to fix it yourself?
The earth cable is connected to the part on top of the gearbox. I didnt think thatmade a difference for the testing since the power isoff anyways. I will reconnect it today and take the measurements again. Cheers,Cage.

Don't forget to reconnect the barrel connectors.

I'm concerned you have no reading for the intermediate speed sensor and temp sensor. The intermediate speed sensor is deep within the auto itself. It's a real bugger when it goes as the auto has to come oft the engine to be able to access it. I know of several v6's on the web that have been scrapped because of this. Temp sensor is in there too. Both are shown in the rave manwell.

If you have access to a code reader you should be able to see code P1715 according to rave. But there's a caveat depending on the age of the vehicle whether the codes appear or something like that. The fact the sensor reads open circuit (no value) is a problem. Can you let us know the make and model of your multimeter? If the sensor is expected to be within the range 513 to 627ohms and it's changed to a high resistance of say 30k ohms (30000 ohms) then you would need to measure it on the 200k ohm range as the 2000 ohm range wouldn't measure and display the higher value. 2000 ohms would be ok if it were within spec.

The earth cable connection to the auto won't effect the resistance check to the solenoids/sensor as this is just checking the resistance loop through the barrel connectors. But it should be connected correctly so still worth checking.

I don't know the full picture of what happens but I think the failure of the intermediate speed sensor is a major factor ere. The gear shift changes etc and signals generated by the sensors are fed into shift pattern algorithms which are linked to the abs computer which provides road speed values etc. Trying to get the intermediate sensor value back is something to look into I think. Well that's what I would do. Or at least follow the cables to look for damage.

If you look at the top left of the solenoids you'll see the sensor cable connections. Check the wiring harness into the auto for damage like broke'd wires or wires caught on metal work etc. I'm not sure if they're the bright multi-coloured cables in the top left below, but it's in that region in top of the auto.


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Can you check yer brake lights and reverse lights work with and without the engine running.

By the way. Thanks for linking my vid. I also realised I followed yer guide to fool filter replacement previously. A nasty job. Small world.

Hi Hippo,
one of the reasons I put the videos up after certain tasks is that it helps keep the Internet free.
Furthermore, as you said, I think many of the Freelanders are having a premature end due to people not knowing some simple things, etc. For instance, the failed fuel pump on my 1.8K series baby. Another is the thermostat issue and the workaroundand the head gasket on the 1.8 - video to come.
I reconnected the auto gearbox select cable to the trunnion nut and then also re connected the 2 twist type connectors, then re-tested the resistances for C0932, below are the responses.

Multimeter on the 2000 option
Pin 5-20, vehicle speed sensor - 577
Pin 21-20, interediate speed sensor - no readings at all. Tried all the other resistance levels on the multimeter, still nothing at all.
pin 24-20, turbine speed sensor - 574.
Pin 39-20, fluid temperature sensor - no readings at all despite having tried all settings on the multimeter.

The next checks were done on the same connector, the C0932 butwith the multimeter set at option 200.

pin 3-17, 2-4 brake duty solenoidvalve = reading jumps from 10.0 to 17.5 then 30.4 and continues to jump between these even after holding the test leads for 1 minute.
pin 4-17, 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve = 18.5 and 18.6, jumps between these 2.
pin 10-17, reduction timing solenoid valve = 18.6then 18.9 and jumps between these 2.
Pin 14-17, shift solenoid valve B = 19.3 to 20.7and jumps between these 2 back and forth.
Pin 15-17, shift solenoid valve A = 18.5 and 18.6 and jumps between these 2.
pin 16-17, lock up solenoid valve = 14.8
Pin 17-18, line pressure duty solenoid valve = 12.7 to 24.8 and jumps continually between these 2.
Pin 52-17, shift solenoid valve C = 19.7 and jumps further from this one on to others.
Pin 53-17, low clutch timing solenoid valve = jumps between 19.9 and 20.7. I will reconnect the battery and will see if i have abrake light light and reverse tomorrow and advise.



Cheers, Niccage.

You will never have drive if the control cable is disconnected!!
Make sure you get the full amount of movement from park to 1. The dash indicator should mirror the shifter light. If it does then you might have drive. Once you are running, it's best to get a code reader for any box faults.

Hi,
I connected the battery and without running the engine, I have all the electrics. The reverse light works, the brake lights work, the left/right indicator lights work, all of the front lights work, the interior light works, and as per normal, as soon as i connect thebattery the tailgate window winds down. I'm thinking of simplyrenewing the sensorsand solenoids, should this help? Cheers, Niccage.

I personally wouldn't renew anything without trying it out first. If it was me I'd start the engine and try selecting the gears. If you have drive you're half way there. The things to check are the dash gear display and the red tell tail by the selector correspond.

I think the system is somehow locked out due to having no intermediate sensor value (it's open circuit) and the abs is linked in with things so there could be a second fault lerking with that. Will have a think about this. I can't see a reason other than broke'd cable or failed intermediate sensor causing you to measure no signal. Having the same happen to the temp sensor is a bit strage. As nodge says don't change anything, but I would be tempted to change the intermediate sensor if you fancy taking the auto oft again. It is a massive risk though as you have to split it all open. So rather than do that have you been able to read codes from at least the engine computer? Would be good if you could read the auto and abs computer too. I think we need that info before taking it apart further just in case it comes up with a clue.

Back to old skool basics. When you mated the transmission up to the engine did it slip on the splines ALL the way to the block. That is the block and the bell housing should just about touch without any forcing. If it was any more than a few millimeters and you drew it together with the mounting bolts you have fatally crippled the torque converter. When it goes together there are 2 distinct places where you have to align the splines. The first is similar to doing a manual box but the secondary is when the bell housing is almost mated to the block.

Can you measure the resistance of the following pins and the metal case of the auto gearbox using connector C0243:

pin 3 and the gearbox metal case
pin 4 and the gearbox metal case
pin 7 and the gearbox metal case
pin 8 and the gearbox metal case

I'm wondering if the wires have been cut when the case was sealed and possibly one of the sensor wires may measure short circuit to the metal case.

Hi all,
sorry wasn't on here till now didnt get a chance. Something else i forget to add is that when the Freelander starts up, the fans come on full blast, that is the twin fans at the front. Is it supposed to do this? Doesn't it do this if the system coolant temp sensor is faulty? Also, there's one cable emerging from the gear selector housing area underneath the centre (some ppl call it rear)console. It's a skinny black cable which emerges from thatarea and runs to the passenger footwell and just sits there on the floor like that cold so to speak, not connected to anything. The cable connector is small and round, i actually confused it for a radio aerial connecter. The connector itself is brown while the rest of the cable is black. I took a series of photos today but wont have the card reader till tomorrow to download them sorry guys, then will upload it.. But it cant be the aerial as i found the aerial which is another skinny black cable with a single pin only plus it's in the radio area whereas this one emerges from the gear selector housing area.


Portchy - mated the gearbox housing successfully to the engine block. It was pretty simple as i mated them outside of the car, i had one up on one hoist, the other on another, when they came together, i didnt force anything but turned the flywheel just a little till they engaged successfully. Then i did all the bolts to the RAVE torque specification.

Hippo - the multimeter i got is cheap and nasty, a no name brand unfortunately, it says made by SCA which stands fo Super Cheap Auto and Made in PRC, speaks for itself.. maybe that explains the values jumping?

As for a code scanner, i dont have Hawkeye or testbook so tomorrow i'll bring my laptop and try this one software i have see if works, if not then i'll ring a mobile guy to come around and scan it, as you said, the self diagnostic system will tell me where a fault lies.

Speaking of cables and connectors not connected to anything, mine doesn't have a radio as it was nicked prior to me buying it a few months ago, so there's a hole there, i'll get a radio in due time. There's a large square black multiplug in there i can see which has 2 further short cables running from it, one of those cables has a yellow connector the other a grey one. These 2 connectors are dangling and arent connected to anything. The buttons on the front console have 3 spare one where nothing's connected so i initially thought these 2 must belong to such, but i dont think so when i found a further 2 connecotrs, blue and black, not connected to anything, that look more like the type that connect to the back of the buttons, the blue has 6 holes in it the black has 5.

Have taken photos will upload tomorrow.

Cooling fans running flat out with a cold engine means a few possible faults.
1 engine temperature sensor is out of range, ie it could be open circuit or short circuit, the ECU simply runs the fans to avoid an overheat.
2 fan controller could be faulty.
3 gearbox fluid temperature sensor is out of range for the same seasons as engine temperature sensor.
Pics required for more information

or air con on??

Hi, I'm on my way there now, here's some of the photos. Wonder if this link will work..http://s40.photobucket.com/user/Jas..._20140121_154837_zpsee8b75cf.jpg.html?filters[user]=139027899&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

Testing.. testing..