KV6 Freelander, no drive in any gear! 2WD conversion

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niccage said:
Hippo, just on the topic of things, when you ran your KV6 in 2WD, did you fit those snazzy (if i can call them that) blanking plates and do away with both your prop shaft and the IRD output shaft, or did you keep your IRD output shaft on? With what you stated regarding the part where the ABS computer has possibly picked up a slight imbalance with the wheels turning due to the absence of the prop shaft and in my case the ird output shaft as well thus perhaps greater chance that both wheels wont be turning in harmony relative to each other so to speak. Wonder if I should put the IRD output shaft back on this weekend as well just to test that.
Click to expand...
There's no need to fit a blanking plate. They're a waste of time, unless there's a problem with the pinion/gears on the pinion output connection from the ird and removing it stops the problem. Like missing teeth on the gears/cogs/things.

I'm running mine with the prop and vcu missing. The pinion is still fitted to the ird.

This is the pinion connection inside the ird:

pwTEskP.jpg

DSCN1471 pwTEskP

2858SEQ.jpg

DSCN1476a 2858SEQ

And the pinion:

mRgKJzH.jpg

DSCN1483 mRgKJzH

Peeps take the pinion oft as they sell for £50.
 
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Forgot to say... Freelander 1 lamps on the dash are colour coded. They either illuminate or not. They don't change colour. When the manual refers to "warning" it's actually referring to being "illuminated" as opposed to the red warning colour option.

Are your lamps the same as this when starting:

Freelander 1 2001 v6 cold and warm engine start - YouTube
 
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I am replying to you PM here niccage. Look at the IRD part list I attached here (All I have is this, I have no legend)

Removing the rear propshaft does not remove any drive to the front wheel, look at how the IRD works by looking at that diagram
 

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Thanks Zefrench for that diagram, noted.

Hippo - the only difference is that your HDC lamp at start up is green, mine's yellow (the same colour as the ABS light on yours and all those other caution or warning lamps that come up for you temporarily), wish I could say temporarily for me .. lol Yours turns off normally, my TC, ABS and HDC remain on and all in yellow.
 
Hey everyone, a transmission specialist wrote several things in an email to me, see below, 4th point is suspect, the rest I have all checked, what do they mean by "switch"? They don't mean the brake light switch, do they? Here's what they asked me to check:
---------
It is hard to determine why you have no drive. We would suggest checking the following:-



1) Have you had this tested for any fault codes on the box?

2) It is possible the pump has broken, although very unusual. Have you just fitted this box or did it loose drive suddenly? You can test this by taking the cooler pipe off when the vehicle is running. If the oil does not flow out the pump is broken. If it does this is not the issue.

3) You should also check if park holds the vehicle. If park does hold the vehicle then you know the selector holds the vehicle. If it does not the selector pin could be broken internally. You would need to remove the selector cable and try and engage gears manually from underneath to see if the could be the issue. This would also eliminate the cable and selector mechanism itself as being the issue.

4) The switch when operated and working should show the gear selection on the dash. Check it is correctly fitted. I assume if worked before. Sometimes when disturbed they can fail.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This would be the brake light switch they refer to in point 4 I assume? I have never disturbed that before though.
 
The switch they refer to is the selector/inhibitor switch. When you move the gear lever to select drive/reverse etc this moves a cable which is connected to the bottom of yer auto. From there it travels up through the auto to the top of the auto, near the filler plug. There's a switch in there. From here the signals go through the smaller of the 2 barrell connectors towards the auto's computer. You will be able to measure a resistance across the contacts in the smaller barrel connector, as you move the gear lever. Short circuit or open circuit depending on gear lever position. Ideally you want only 1 short circuit at a time, across any contact. You can also measure the inhibit signal from the smaller connector too.
 
Hi all, just wanted also share something more to the benefit of readers of this post, below is an email I got off one former Freelander KV6 owner in relation to a possible ABS light fault...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A Freelander we had for our own use a couple of years ago gave us some problems with the ABS light staying on. The vehicle would drive OK then suddenly the brakes would come on and bring the vehicle almost to a halt - very scary. Land Rover told us that 'this could not possibly happen' and didn't want to know about the problem. I removed the fuse for the ABS light and the vehicle would be fine unfortunately we never got to the bottom of it and ended up scrapping the vehicle.

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I don't think removal of that fuse for the light would do anything for me, in any case you would fail the yearly roadworthy test here they call a "pink slip inspection" in New South Wales Australia, I presume it would be the same as the MOT.
 
Can we have a photo to see what dash lights are on?

Does the dash report the correct gear lever position?

Do the LED's by the gear lever report the correct lever position?
 
Given that the inhibitor switch works in that it prevents the KV6 from being started in D and R and the other gear positions except for P, is it safe to assume it should be working fine in that it should be passing on data to the dash display? If it failed partially and couldn't report data for the dash display, this couldn't lead to a 100% no drive condition, could it?
 
Hi Hippo, dash reports no gear level position at all, the LEDs by the gear level, however, do light up to reflect the current gear selection. Let me see if I can find a photo, if not I will take one tomorrow or by the weekend and upload.
 
Have you touched the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) ? If not it might be worth unplugging and re plugging it.
The dash gear selection display comes from the TCU via the Can bus. If the Can bus data is lost, the display will remain blank. This might also account for the 3 amigos as the ABS ECU is also on the Can bus network.
 
G'day Hippo,
on the same page, I was actually just referring now to your message for this forum on the 24th of January, in which you uploaded a table explaining the meaning of different combinations of warning lamps. Mine is narrowed down to the ABS ECU being at fault with another stating ABS + EBD failure. The fans working full blast could be a possible indication of the lack of a "CAN BUS" message to and from the ABS ECU if it's failed. But why would the ABS ECU have any role in displaying or not displaying the gear selection information on the dash display?
 
HI Nodge, the TCU is the metal thingy inside it's own box what is known as the "E box" next to the bonnet fuse box? I did remove and store it for when I removed the Jatco, but I plugged it all back in the way it was. I will re check it this weekend.
 
Should book an auto electrician for Saturday who could not only probably test the ABS ECU but possibly has a better code or software scanner than I do and should be able to get codes that my simplistic tool cant access..
 
Can you check all the fuses in the engine bay fuse box. In particular fuse link FL8 abs computer. The FL's are the green ones below:

yn4O1o4.jpg

P8171568 yn4O1o4

Also check the fuses 2, 7 and 35 in the fuse box under the steering wheel.
 
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niccage said:
G'day Hippo,
on the same page, I was actually just referring now to your message for this forum on the 24th of January, in which you uploaded a table explaining the meaning of different combinations of warning lamps. Mine is narrowed down to the ABS ECU being at fault with another stating ABS + EBD failure. The fans working full blast could be a possible indication of the lack of a "CAN BUS" message to and from the ABS ECU if it's failed. But why would the ABS ECU have any role in displaying or not displaying the gear selection information on the dash display?
Click to expand...
The abs computer sends data to the auto computer, engine computer and dash display. All to do with info on speed and what's happening. I guess there's a possible issue with the data not being there, or the data being wrong. ~This could be the issue but equally it could be a load of crap. There's a lot of comms between all computers and the "system" can be effected by a number of issues, via a different computer receiving a faulty signal which then stops the "system" working correctly.
 
Hi Hippo,
thanks for that, I checked all fuses in the driver's side fusebox alrweady, pulled each one out to check for visual inspection to see if blown, etc, and all seemed fine. The FL8, i.e - the small green ones in the engine bay fuse box, since they are all the same voltage, I swapped a few of them around after checking it visually. I remember I didn't end up testing the green one (FL8) with a power probe for voltage as the visual inspection checked out fine... i.e - it didn't look dead, plus I rotated it with another one just to be safe, the one I put in it's place was definitely Ok. I figured I didn't need to test if the visual looks good and swapping being a viable option. All the green ones are of the same type and voltage. Unfortunately my 1.8 K series manual (2000) doesn't have the identical ABS computer so can't plug that one in. Or, if I had an alternate working KV6, if I simply d/c the ABS computer, will it be expected to produce the symptoms that I have at present?
 
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