first time owner and suspension fail straight of the bat!

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hi all and thanks for the updates
i have bought 3 gallons of juice and i have the battery on charge in the garage with my new optimate 6. i thought the charger was worth a try as i have an optimate 2 on my bike battery and its lasted 10 years without a hitch

my keys both lock and unlock the car, indicators flash etc and will turn over fine but i understand it can lose its 'connection' to the ecu somehow..

i have everything crossed for the fuel solution.
the other option is to use 1 gallon in the tank and the other 2, well...........

on the other note, i cleared loads of faults and when i clear the suspension the compressor fires up in the rear for a few seconds then faults out again.
i have been pointed towards the front suspension solenoid valve block or something but maybe need to be able to start the car to clear the suspension inactive by turning the wheel before i can resolve the suspension?
 
Saint.V8 said:
Have you checked to make sure the Pump is a) Getting Power b)the Fuel Pump relay isn't shagged c) Power to the Relay ??
Click to expand...

i will try that first if the fuel and battery dont solve it.
how do i go about testing the relay safely as i am concerned about upsetting the bus thing.
i have a multimeter and also the old bulb in a screwdriver type.it will probably be tomorrow now as the battery test and recon is a long cycle
 
i just had an email from storey as i asked him about the can bus fault as well as the immobiliser and the can bus fault is cleared by the steering wheel turning procedure from lock to lock which i guess you already knew
 
No Start, No Fuel, Not the Pump ...

sorry to link to the competition, (skip straight to the last post) i reckon this is where i am if no go tomorrow, if saints advice in 101 points that way ;-)
which is what you guys ave been saying all along
fingers crossed on the fuel top up
 
Last edited:
ok, this is where i am.

put fuel in, still wont start, no fuel at the rail, bugger it!

i checked the fuel pump fuse with a multimeter and i have 12v both sides with the ignition on
removed the fuel pump relay and i have 12v to 2 of the pins with the ignition on and 0.3 ? on one of the others nothing on the 4th which i am guessing is the switched side

i now have the rear carpet up and the fuel tank exposed - should i check the supply to the fuel pump?
 
holidaychicken said:
ok, this is where i am.

put fuel in, still wont start, no fuel at the rail, bugger it!

i checked the fuel pump fuse with a multimeter and i have 12v both sides with the ignition on
removed the fuel pump relay and i have 12v to 2 of the pins with the ignition on and 0.3 ? on one of the others nothing on the 4th which i am guessing is the switched side

i now have the rear carpet up and the fuel tank exposed - should i check the supply to the fuel pump?
Click to expand...
Yes, are there not 2 pumps on the L322? The in tank pump and the high pressure pump? Or am I thinking diesel??
I don't know a lot about the L322, thankfully I don't have one:)
 
Datatek said:
Yes, are there not 2 pumps on the L322? The in tank pump and the high pressure pump? Or am I thinking diesel??
I don't know a lot about the L322, thankfully I don't have one:)
Click to expand...

not sure, i know where the one is in the tank, might be common rail diesel you are thinking of
 
The M62 4.4 V8 only has one fuel pump, the Diesels have a second pump on the outside of the tank.

So you have checked power to the relay - which part the coil or the switch?

Not teaching you to suck eggs but a relay has two sides, the Coil and the switch...

On the L322 the Power to the Coil comes from Fuse 51 (10 amp) in the glovebox fuse box and is grounded via the Engine ECU and Engine Control Relay. Make sure this fuse is OK.

If you have power to the coil side of the relay, time to check for power on the switched side....

Power is supplied to the switch via Fuse 15 (25 amp) in the boot fuse box, check this is OK....looking at the schematic, this is powered at all times regardless of ignition position.

So, with ignition ON - Check for power to the Coil side of the relay - Pin 86 is Positive and Pin 85 is the ground.

Next check for power to the Switch - Pin 30 is the power input to the switch and usualy 87 is the output to the device (in this case the pump) so positive probe in the pin 30 slot and the negative probe to a good earth point. This proves power is getting to the relay.

Put relay back in and listen for the relay clicking in and out when the ignition is switched on and off. This proves the relay.

With the relay in, lift the rear carpet and unplug the fuel pump connection. With ignition ON, check for power between pins 1 and 4 (White/Blue and Brown), if nothing, check for power between pin 1 and a decent earth point.....if you get power this way it could be the earth stud the fuel pump is ground to is duff. (Diagram attached for pin orientation)

  • If you get power, Fuel pump is duff...
  • If you don't get power but relay is switching and there is power to the switch, wiring to pump is duff or the relay switch is duff (Check by applying 12V to the coil -pins 85+86 and the checking the continuity across pins 30+87 using your meter)
  • If relay switch checks out and still no power to the fuel pump connection, time to look at the wiring to the fuel pump connector.
 

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Last edited:
Saint.V8 said:
The M62 4.4 V8 only has one fuel pump, the Diesels have a second pump on the outside of the tank.

So you have checked power to the relay - which part the coil or the switch?

Not teaching you to suck eggs but a relay has two sides, the Coil and the switch...

On the L322 the Power to the Coil comes from Fuse 51 (10 amp) in the glovebox fuse box and is grounded via the Engine ECU and Engine Control Relay. Make sure this fuse is OK.

If you have power to the coil side of the relay, time to check for power on the switched side....

Power is supplied to the switch via Fuse 15 (25 amp) in the boot fuse box, check this is OK....looking at the schematic, this is powered at all times regardless of ignition position.

So, with ignition ON - Check for power to the Coil side of the relay - Pin 86 is Positive and Pin 85 is the ground.

Next check for power to the Switch - Pin 30 is the power input to the switch and usualy 87 is the output to the device (in this case the pump) so positive probe in the pin 30 slot and the negative probe to a good earth point. This proves power is getting to the relay.

Put relay back in and listen for the relay clicking in and out when the ignition is switched on and off. This proves the relay.

With the relay in, lift the rear carpet and unplug the fuel pump connection. With ignition ON, check for power between pins 1 and 4 (White/Blue and Brown), if nothing, check for power between pin 1 and a decent earth point.....if you get power this way it could be the earth stud the fuel pump is ground to is duff. (Diagram attached for pin orientation)

  • If you get power, Fuel pump is duff...
  • If you don't get power but relay is switching and there is power to the switch, wiring to pump is duff or the relay switch is duff (Check by applying 12V to the coil -pins 85+86 and the checking the continuity across pins 30+87 using your meter)
  • If relay switch checks out and still no power to the fuel pump connection, time to look at the wiring to the fuel pump connector.
Click to expand...
I would just add that a relay clicking means it's operating but it does not mean the contacts are passing current, they may be burnt out.
 
hi saint, thanks very much for the info, however i am totally stumped now.

what does seem fine is the 25 amp fuse is ok and has permanent 12v
pin 30 has permanent 12v supply

with ignition off using the body as ground i have
12v on 30
4.3 v on 87
0v on 85
0v on 86
85 is earth
87 acts as earth but i only get 7v when i connect to 12v

with ignition on in position 2 and body as earth i get
12v on 30
12v on 85
4.3v on 87
3.6v on 86

i tested the fuel pump and i get 4.5 volt using the white'blue and brown

now i am no vehicle mechanic as you probably guessed but i do understand how a relay works and i have never seen anything like this. is this to do with the ecu can bus or is my ecu biffed or have i now biffed my ecu
or am i more stupid than i recall
do we know anyone in kent who can turn up with a trailer take my car away and deliver back in working order in exchange for cash or fix it here i dont mind...
helpppppp.
now my multimeter could be weird and the relay does click

the technical term is WTF!!!

rearfuse_zps25bcd556.jpg
 
holidaychicken said:
hi saint, thanks very much for the info, however i am totally stumped now.

what does seem fine is the 25 amp fuse is ok and has permanent 12v
pin 30 has permanent 12v supply

with ignition off using the body as ground i have
12v on 30
4.3 v on 87
0v on 85
0v on 86
85 is earth
87 acts as earth but i only get 7v when i connect to 12v

with ignition on in position 2 and body as earth i get
12v on 30
12v on 85
4.3v on 87
3.6v on 86

i tested the fuel pump and i get 4.5 volt using the white'blue and brown

now i am no vehicle mechanic as you probably guessed but i do understand how a relay works and i have never seen anything like this. is this to do with the ecu can bus or is my ecu biffed or have i now biffed my ecu
or am i more stupid than i recall
do we know anyone in kent who can turn up with a trailer take my car away and deliver back in working order in exchange for cash or fix it here i dont mind...
helpppppp.
now my multimeter could be weird and the relay does click

the technical term is WTF!!!

rearfuse_zps25bcd556.jpg
Click to expand...
You can get lots of wierd reading on cars due to back circuits when using a meter. Often it's better to check using a 21 watt bulb as that draws enough current to prove the circuit funtions.
 
Disconnect the Fuel Pump connection....

Remove Relay.....

Bridge Contacts 30 and 87 using wire to provide power directly to the pump bypassing the relay.....

Using your meter, check for power on Pins 1+4 on the fuel pump connection...

If you have the full 12V....relay is fecked....no power or low voltage....wiring to pump is fecked.

As you say you have the full 12V at pin 30, bridging the contacts and then measuring power at the connector will identify if the wiring is fecked or the relay is burnt out!
 
thanks mate, i tried connecting up the allcomms to see what faults i had
i still have the abs temporary disable and brake light on dash and still can bus error on air suspension which i think is all related but i still have the engine module immobiliser fault below. i clear it and it goes and soon as i try and start it comes back, could this be connected to my issue somehow?

i'll try the connections you suggest now but where do you reckon i am getting these odd voltages from, i didnt want to toast my ecu if it had got itself in a muddle somehow, if i havent already.....
thanks again

immob1_zps347ad86d.jpg
 
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