first time owner and suspension fail straight of the bat!

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bless it, i am going to get it to the dealer by hook or by crook, get it started hopefully and then will probably have to get it recovered back again unless the eas has fixed itself as i am guessing the dealer will want more than its worth to do any other work
thanks for your help mate, i'll post an update when i am skint:)
 
Hopefully getting the old tart to the stealer tomorrow
Do you know why it says 'code' in the central display but its greyed out?
 
holidaychicken said:
Hopefully getting the old tart to the stealer tomorrow
Do you know why it says 'code' in the central display but its greyed out?
Click to expand...
Yep there is a security code....but not normally displayed in the centre display (unless you have the HSE with the MiD system)

Hang on fecking second....has this been here all along????

The L322 has a security feature to lock out the motor until you put a 4 digit code into the SatNav display ....kind of a secondary immobilser....

You can set the code before turning the ignition off, and you have to enter it again to remobilse the engine.....

Do a search on Gooooooooooooogle to see if there is a way to turn this off if you don't know the original code....

This could be the problem you are having! I'll see if I can find the info in the handbook for you!

EDIT: Picture Attached
 

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Thanks mate,I think it's already deactivated as I can't select code as its greyed out and the menu scroll just skips straight over it
I'm away tonight or I would photo it
 
It's never asked me to enter a code but maybe since I disconnected the battery it's enabled something
Its being picked up in the morning so you never the know the dealer may ring me and say its fixed for free…
Or they may say its £1000 for a new ecu !
 
well here's a good bit of news at last but i wont count my eggs before they in the bush or whatever the saying is.

i had a call from the main dealer today, who i must say have been exceptionally polite and professional so far, and they tell me the wagon is running again as they have re-coded the immobiliser to the engine control module and the best bit- only £70 all in.
i also found a local flat bed company to get the car there so that was only £75.

they are now going to have a look at whats causing the air suspension problems so at least i know what to replace as i think this will be too expensive for them to do but you never know...................
i think i will also get a complete visual inspection thrown in anyway so i can see the many faults the old tart has:D
 
holidaychicken said:
well here's a good bit of news at last but i wont count my eggs before they in the bush or whatever the saying is.

i had a call from the main dealer today, who i must say have been exceptionally polite and professional so far, and they tell me the wagon is running again as they have re-coded the immobiliser to the engine control module and the best bit- only £70 all in.
i also found a local flat bed company to get the car there so that was only £75.

they are now going to have a look at whats causing the air suspension problems so at least i know what to replace as i think this will be too expensive for them to do but you never know...................
i think i will also get a complete visual inspection thrown in anyway so i can see the many faults the old tart has:D
Click to expand...
Grand news, so seems the EWS ECU was playing silly buggers.....

Diagnostics will only tell you what the ECU is telling it, if the ECU thinks all is hunky dunky it won't issue a fault code.i
 
holidaychicken said:
immob1_zps347ad86d.jpg
Click to expand...

this is what allcomms said, which made sense, i think it helped giving the dealer this info before they even started looking for faults
so......
back to the original question, i have asked them to look into the air suspension just to diagnose and my thoughts were around the front solenoid valve block, but looking on the island 4x4 site, their part only goes up to 4A154877, and mine is 4A157*** and dong some digging i'm not sure i even have one of those

its good to have a bit of background info from you blokes before they tell me what needs doing so i can research the cost of doing it myself

As an update to this thread in case some other poor bastard is in the same situation but this has happened several times since and had to get the dealer out with their laptop twice which was far easier than putting it on a trailer and taking it to them. Also since then i have purchased the Faultmate extreme MSV2 which works a treat to resync the engine and immobilser ECUs. Never have found out why it loses the sync when the battery is totally disconnected, it seams ok if i just disconnect the earth ???
 
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got the car back, managed to drive it the 20 miles back form the the dealer.
it was on its front bump stop to start with but soon raised up to normal height but when i got it home it wouldnt raise or lower and when i turned it off i could hear air rushing from the offside front air spring so at least thats confirmed.

i dropped into island 4x4 and picked up two new dunlop air struts which i'll fit over the weekend

the lights are on on the eas control switch but it wont adjust up or down but the orange light flashes to say its trying and i have can bus error on the all comms eas section which wont clear.

could the split air bag cause the can bus error?

also what is the button at the centre of the eas height adjust switch for, when i press it the orange led comes on but nothing happens?

back where i was a month ago, buts its progress:)
 
The centre button is the ride height inhibit switch - this allows you to lock it in a set ride height so the ECU won't make automatic adjustments based on road speed....

Not usualy get a CANbus error with a blown strut....

Replace them, clear faults, ensure it works correctly...that way you can rule out EAS system for the CANbus error....a fault in the ABS System, Transfer Box or anyother system that comms on the CAN could raise a CANbus fault which other ECUs will also pick up on, there could be an underlying fault on another system other than the EAS it is just the EAS ECU is also reporting the fault...

i.e. when my ABS issue was happening the EAS would also issue a CANbus fault, the Transfer Box issued a Comms lost on CANbus fault etc etc...they are complex cars that have various databuses shuttling information between the ECUs... so if one goes down, it tends to drag others with it!
 
thanks saint, i'll change the struts and report back

i now have no instrument cluster lights anymore so the clocks and indicator, main beam indicator etc, even when lights are on are all not illuminated
speedo and rev counter works ok but no lights and the lcd display is visible in the day

the central sat nav display and computer all light up fine

i did have the lcd display reconned but it has worked ok since then???

these cars are a never ending source of bewilderment :(

its also started making a loud knock when it first starts up...WTF!!

i would go mad if it wasnt for this site
 
holidaychicken said:
thanks saint, i'll change the struts and report back

i now have no instrument cluster lights anymore so the clocks and indicator, main beam indicator etc, even when lights are on are all not illuminated
speedo and rev counter works ok but no lights and the lcd display is visible in the day

the central sat nav display and computer all light up fine

i did have the lcd display reconned but it has worked ok since then???

these cars are a never ending source of bewilderment :(

its also started making a loud knock when it first starts up...WTF!!

i would go mad if it wasnt for this site
Click to expand...
Knock or rattle....??

The VANOS system (Acronym for some very long German words meaning Variable Valve Timing) chains rattle on their guides at first start up on the M62 engines....

If it is a knock....heavy or light? Metallic or dull??
 
it used to be an occasional rattle, this time it was more a heavier knock, but i wouldnt say metallic, i gave it a little rev and it went quiet?
 
holidaychicken said:
it used to be an occasional rattle, this time it was more a heavier knock, but i wouldnt say metallic, i gave it a little rev and it went quiet?
Click to expand...
Could be the VANOS guides wearing, or the hydraulic tappets loose....if it goes once the oil pressure is increased with a quick blip on the throttle...I would say VANOS or Tappets
 
holidaychicken said:
any thing to be worried about immediately?

any ideas on the instrument cluster lights, they did work fine?
Click to expand...
There was a post about cluster lights recently....have a search...can't remember the remedy - wasn't major - fuse or loose connection I believe

As for this rattle/knock - if it is getting worse, might be worth while getting it looked at, first off, check the engine oil for colour and viscosity, old oil is useless and starts to have the lubricating capacity of water...if it is old and brown (against a dark straw/dark tan) might be worth while replacing it...

Some have had results using a slightly thicker oil like 5W/40 (it is on the recommended list) as opposed to a 0W oil....
 
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