first time owner and suspension fail straight of the bat!

Saint.V8 · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
thanks mate, i tried connecting up the allcomms to see what faults i had
i still have the abs temporary disable and brake light on dash and still can bus error on air suspension which i think is all related but i still have the engine module immobiliser fault below. i clear it and it goes and soon as i try and start it comes back, could this be connected to my issue somehow?

i'll try the connections you suggest now but where do you reckon i am getting these odd voltages from, i didnt want to toast my ecu if it had got itself in a muddle somehow, if i havent already.....
thanks again

The ABS/EAS faults should clear when you get the engine started and you can reset the Steering angle sensor...with luck these will clear.

As for the Engine ECU fault code, not sure on that one....bridge the relay, check for power to the pump..

The transient voltages are, as Datatek says, just a by product of the back circuits...I would say your ECU is probably fine.

When you bridge the relay, you are bridging the switch circuit which is totally separate to the ECU control circuit to the coil....

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Saint.V8 said:
Disconnect the Fuel Pump connection....

Remove Relay.....

Bridge Contacts 30 and 87 using wire to provide power directly to the pump bypassing the relay.....

Using your meter, check for power on Pins 1+4 on the fuel pump connection...

If you have the full 12V....relay is fecked....no power or low voltage....wiring to pump is fecked.

As you say you have the full 12V at pin 30, bridging the contacts and then measuring power at the connector will identify if the wiring is fecked or the relay is burnt out!

bridging 30 and 87 gives me 12v at fuel pump pins 1+4

testing relay switch and continuity with 12v supply works fine

relay removed i have 4.3v at pins 1+4 on the fuel pump, with ignition off and on, that's what i don't understand

the car had a new fuel pump just before i bought it, mean anything??
i am totally stumped
i tried another two relays and got the same result
feck this fecking fecker

Datatek · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
bridging 30 and 87 gives me 12v at fuel pump pins 1+4

testing relay switch and continuity with 12v supply works fine

relay removed i have 4.3v at pins 1+4 on the fuel pump, with ignition off and on, that's what i don't understand

the car had a new fuel pump just before i bought it, mean anything??
i am totally stumped
i tried another two relays and got the same result
feck this fecking fecker

If when you have 12 volts at the pump does it run? That's all that matters.
Just ignore the 4.3 volts with the relay out for the moment, it's probably just leakage through a supression circuit.

Saint.V8 · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
bridging 30 and 87 gives me 12v at fuel pump pins 1+4

testing relay switch and continuity with 12v supply works fine

relay removed i have 4.3v at pins 1+4 on the fuel pump, with ignition off and on, that's what i don't understand

the car had a new fuel pump just before i bought it, mean anything??
i am totally stumped
i tried another two relays and got the same result
feck this fecking fecker

I would say ignore the 4.3V at the pump with relay removed, that could just be transient voltage straying down the Earth path...annoying not knowing the cause, but I don't think this is your problem....

So with bridged contacts you get 12V at the pump connection....

With the relay in place, measure the voltage now at the pump connection Pins 1+4 while some one turns the ignition on and you monitor the voltage reading....

No/low volts at switch on - relay fecked

12V at switch on, Pump fecked....

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Datatek said:
If when you have 12 volts at the pump does it run? That's all that matters.
Just ignore the 4.3 volts with the relay out for the moment, it's probably just leakage through a supression circuit.

removed all the relays and tried them all 4 one by one in the fuel pump position with ignition on, none of them clicked so i must have misheard one of the other relays earlier but i can try a brand new one when i get chance but not sure where to get one from today

connected 12v to pin 87 on relay connection and pump runs fine

with ignition off and on i tested relay connection pin 86 as an earth and only get 7.6 volts when i connect 12v supply to it?

with ignition on, pin 86 actually has 3.6v when connected to earth

when the ignition is off pin 85, which is switched 12v from ignition, becomes an earth

suicide is always an option

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Saint.V8 said:
I would say ignore the 4.3V at the pump with relay removed, that could just be transient voltage straying down the Earth path...annoying not knowing the cause, but I don't think this is your problem....

So with bridged contacts you get 12V at the pump connection....

With the relay in place, measure the voltage now at the pump connection Pins 1+4 while some one turns the ignition on and you monitor the voltage reading....

No/low volts at switch on - relay fecked

12V at switch on, Pump fecked....

i will try a new relay in case all 4 are buggered in the back which is possible, do i have to get a landrover one or could i pick one up from halfords

Saint.V8 · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
i will try a new relay in case all 4 are buggered in the back which is possible, do i have to get a landrover one or could i pick one up from halfords

Halfords will be fin aslong as the pin out diagram on the relays are the same!

Just wondering, bridge Pins 30+87 to provide 12V to the pump, then try starting the car!

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Saint.V8 said:
Halfords will be fin aslong as the pin out diagram on the relays are the same!

Just wondering, bridge Pins 30+87 to provide 12V to the pump, then try starting the car!

tried that, it wouldn't turn over, just a clunk, as i think the battery has been drained from me fecking around all day although it was fully charged this morning

i have left it connected and put my optimate on it while i go to halfords to get a new relay, i dont think the centre pin does anything but i'll try and get a 5 pin

30 Amp should be ok shouldnt it?

Saint.V8 · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
tried that, it wouldn't turn over, just a clunk, as i think the battery has been drained from me fecking around all day although it was fully charged this morning

i have left it connected and put my optimate on it while i go to halfords to get a new relay, i dont think the centre pin does anything but i'll try and get a 5 pin

30 Amp should be ok shouldnt it?

30 amp will be fine, and yes get a 5 pin regardless of if it is used or not...make sure the diagram on the relay matches the original!

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Saint.V8 said:
30 amp will be fine, and yes get a 5 pin regardless of if it is used or not...make sure the diagram on the relay matches the original!

man you are fast!!!!
stand by...

Datatek · Jul 20, 2013

I suppose we are not looking at a duff ignition switch by any chance?

Saint.V8 · Jul 20, 2013

Datatek said:
I suppose we are not looking at a duff ignition switch by any chance?

Anything is possible I guess, I guess you can check this, but it is a PIA due to having to dismantle the centre console area to get to the switch....unless you reckon measuring the voltage at an ignition switched service would give the same result, only issue with that is most services are switched via an ECU and all the iggy switch does is power on the ECU, the ECU then switches the battery live to power said services....

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Datatek said:
I suppose we are not looking at a duff ignition switch by any chance?

i get 12v to the correct terminal when i switch on the ignition, its the negative thats being weird

i am back from halfords and tried the new relay and its a fail unfortunately.
no click and no pump noise or starting
could it be the ecu blocking the negative via the immobiliser somehow as when i clear the immobiliser fault on the allcomms it returns as soon as i crank the engine?

Datatek · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
i get 12v to the correct terminal when i switch on the ignition, its the negative thats being weird

i am back from halfords and tried the new relay and its a fail unfortunately.
no click and no pump noise or starting
could it be the ecu blocking the negative via the immobiliser somehow as when i clear the immobiliser fault on the allcomms it returns as soon as i crank the engine?

On all this stuff it's the negative that is switched so it could well be to do with the immobiliser.

Saint.V8 · Jul 20, 2013

holidaychicken said:
i get 12v to the correct terminal when i switch on the ignition, its the negative thats being weird

i am back from halfords and tried the new relay and its a fail unfortunately.
no click and no pump noise or starting
could it be the ecu blocking the negative via the immobiliser somehow as when i clear the immobiliser fault on the allcomms it returns as soon as i crank the engine?

Possible, I would charge the battery, bridge the relay and see if it starts....

Not sure if the Immobilser cuts the fuel pump or the spark...or both!!

Bridge the relay, try to start it..if nothing, check for fuel pressure while the able assistant bridges the relay....if you get fuel to the rail and still no start - possible immobiliser/spark issue....if still no fuel pressure, fuel filter or pipe blocked due to dragging up crap from the bottom of the tank!

holidaychicken · Jul 20, 2013

Saint.V8 said:
Possible, I would charge the battery, bridge the relay and see if it starts....

Not sure if the Immobilser cuts the fuel pump or the spark...or both!!

Bridge the relay, try to start it..if nothing, check for fuel pressure while the able assistant bridges the relay....if you get fuel to the rail and still no start - possible immobiliser/spark issue....if still no fuel pressure, fuel filter or pipe blocked due to dragging up crap from the bottom of the tank!

ok thanks all, stand by for update, its on charge now

holidaychicken · Jul 22, 2013

well this is where i am.
i have booked into the main dealer for wednesday, £99/hr +vat, and left a deposit of one arm and one leg.
the recovery company they use wants about £250 to move it 18 miles so i was wondering can i tow it there as i have read an article that says i can for the year i have but i dont want to explode my gearbox?

i didnt bother fecking around anymore as this is getting expensive
i did notice in some receipts it had an engine wiring loom and main harness in late 2011 at a mere £2k due to a non start........

i also noticed the service history past about 20k miles is total b/s as well as the numbers have been altered:doh:

Saint.V8 · Jul 22, 2013

holidaychicken said:
well this is where i am.
i have booked into the main dealer for wednesday, £99/hr +vat, and left a deposit of one arm and one leg.
the recovery company they use wants about £250 to move it 18 miles so i was wondering can i tow it there as i have read an article that says i can for the year i have but i dont want to explode my gearbox?

i didnt bother fecking around anymore as this is getting expensive
i did notice in some receipts it had an engine wiring loom and main harness in late 2011 at a mere £2k due to a non start........

i also noticed the service history past about 20k miles is total b/s as well as the numbers have been altered:doh:

Shame to hear of the dubios history....

To tow on all four wheels you have to place the Transfer Box into Neutral mode....this is in the handbook....I have copied it here for you incase you don't have the handbook...

For fecks sake do not tow it without putting it into TB neutral first...

holidaychicken · Jul 22, 2013

Saint.V8 said:
Shame to hear of the dubios history....

To tow on all four wheels you have to place the Transfer Box into Neutral mode....this is in the handbook....I have copied it here for you incase you don't have the handbook...

For fecks sake do not tow it without putting it into TB neutral first...

thanks saint, i should do that even if its being winched up on to a trailer i guess?

is there a way of manually pumping up the front suspension, i do have a compressor, as its very low at the front and will most likely have to me reversed up onto a flat bed and i dont want the front to scrape

Saint.V8 · Jul 22, 2013

holidaychicken said:
thanks saint, i should do that even if its being winched up on to a trailer i guess?

is there a way of manually pumping up the front suspension, i do have a compressor, as its very low at the front and will most likely have to me reversed up onto a flat bed and i dont want the front to scrape

Trailer winching is fine as is minor distances....

No manual way on the L322 - or the P38 for that matter unless it has Manual valves added...

Heres mine in a sorry state last year....

first time owner and suspension fail straight of the bat!

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