engine out!!!!

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i dont even know where co.durham is but ty for the offer, i will have to guess with brute force. when i was doing other bolts at 60 ft i hardly used any pressure.
 
co,durham is in the north east,bit far just to borrow tools,mind you gav the crank pully bolt on my shogun was about 245nm and all i did was wedge a good flathead screw driver in the ring gear to tighten or loosen the bolt
 
Sorry to read of your woes Andy. Question..what was the oil seal diameter on the crank like when you stripped the old oil seal out-was it grooved at all where the seal had been running???
I know the rear cap is tight to get in with the new c/fix seals fitted and should be pulled in dead square, from memory, I am sure that there is a slight chamfer on the block to guide the seals and cap in. Also, a bit of lock & seal or Hermatite Green on the cap faces where they pull up to the block helps seal the joint and prevent oil seepage. As has been posted, a slight smear of oil on the c/fix seals helps prevent "Shaving" as the cap is pulled up.:tea::smokin:
 
there was no groove at all john i gave the whole area a good clean with a soft cloth to remove all the old oil and everything looked perfect,but i have since bee looking on the net and there are two types of crucfix earlier and later type the ones i got are the earlier ones,as they look more like an offset x where as the later ones look like a t,so imwondering if that could be the cause.
 
the ones i put in were a tight fit into the groves even though id soaked them in oil something doesn,t sound right here,i think tommorow im going to strip that rear bearing cap out and have a go fitting new ones in from the dealer when i get them i,ll get a spare set incase the block has to come out.just aswell ive still got the engine hoist
 
Really feel gutted for you Andy............did you put sealant on the mating faces??
I know it may seem like a stupid question, did you fit the crank oil seal the right way round-open face of seal towards front of engine????
 
yeah done all that john,im hoping i can tease the bearing out and check these crucifix ones im sure they are the cause,imjust hoping i can tease it back in,i don,t want to lift the block out if i can help it but if i have to then it,s coming back out
 
bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!! bolts are here!!!!!


ME FECKING BOLTS ARE HERE

but i'm not excited!
 
doesn,t show gav honestly:D

well ive ordered my bits this morning,they should hopefully be here tommorow,then i will be having a play of solve the oil leak;)
 
it seems the block i got as a bargain is an oil burner. other than shagged rings is there any other reason it's kicking out white smoke? i did hope today would be the end of my dramas. also the cps was acting up and i have managed to move it away a bit to stop it fouling the fly wheel. its not ticking over even, as though its missing but i have assumed this is the cps. i was also gonna do the valve stem seals, took one out and lost all the bits, found em and just put it back together, could i have damaged the seal?

i am gutted that its gone the wrong way!!!
 
I was always told white smoke was a mullered turbo seal but with no turbo i can oonly assume its excess oil from somewhere else...rings would be a possibility.

did the block come complete with pistons/crank etc or are you using new stuff?? Just wondering whether the rings need bedding in.

It is smoke and not steam isn't it?

carl
 
white is usually steam but if theres enough oil it wont burn and will show as white vapour

Blue smoke is oil

Black smoke is excess fuel

Carl
 
well its deffo white, been on phone to john (irishrover, nice bloke) and i am gonna check oil level, plug condition first.

but its the amount, its as though its vapourising the oil but not burning it as such but the quantity doesnt match either pistons or stem seals. unless of course theres a hole in a piston!!!
 
you had your heads skimmed before didn,t you,did you get the valve seals done,im just wondering if they may have dried out whilst were waiting to do the rebuild,if you need any let me know
 
i have a set of seals but when i nearly lost all the gubbins i decided againt replacing em as there were fine before. they were stll coated in oil when i got em back from skimming so i dont think they went dry.

it may be my downfall
 
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