Something wrong there. 0.7ma? Should be around 50ma with the BECM asleep. Less than 1ma is not possible. If the meter really was on a 20ma range, the the load would exceed the range so your reading is likely to be meaningless.The meter range was 20 mA and the result on the display was 0.70. Isn't that 0.70mA?
He didn't say 70ma, he said 0.7ma, less than 1 ma.70 mA doesn't sound bad although it may randomly be waking up.
After-market radio is a common source of drain.
Might be worth pulling the delay relay on the EAS as that is known to wake up sometimes as well.
I have never seen readings that low.As I wrote above, the previous measurement values are too low, the reason; I did not notice in the dark the charger connected to the bumper connector, which provided power to the car's wiring, so only a small part of the battery went to the same wiring, from which those previous readings of less than a milliampere came. .
When I noticed the charger and disconnected it, the measurement results changed completely. That is, about 25 mA, which varies at its highest about 33 mA, at its lowest 12 mA. The same readings were obtained with three different meters. The fourth, which was the cheapest, had a much higher current, and it was not in line with the more expensive meters.
Yes it would but I'm not sure it would reduce it by that much.Could it be that now that the RF receiver is completely disconnected, it would allow for lower standby current?
I use the 13 pin trailer socket to do the same as you have done with your socket. Where I am, a 20 watt panel via a controller is enough to keep the battery topped up except in the last 2 weeks when we were fog bound all day every day.About battery charging: I have installed a 3-pin socket on the front bumper, to which I usually connect a 270W solar panel with MPPT controller. I sometimes also connect a battery charger to this same socket, as I had just done and forgot about it.
The solar panel provides enough power to maintain the battery on a bright, cloudy day.
The third use for the socket is to change the battery without turning off the car. In this case, I connect an additional battery to the car via the socket.
No receiver, no possibility of operating the locks via RF.Speaking of door locks, now that I've removed the RF receiver completely, is it no longer possible for the locks to operate unintentionally via radio waves, regardless of frequency?
If the "dancing" continues, is there something wrong with the microswitches in the lock?
Sorry I forgot to measure the receiver current, it's been a bit hectic here with a big storm, I will do it tomorrow.I went to check the battery voltage now that the car hasn't been driven since my last post. The reading was 12.4V, which I think is reasonable.
The main thing seems to be: the RF receiver was the cause of the battery drain. Same as many other readers. I will never connect it again.
Or as they say here: Don't bring it closer than five meters from the car...or: it must be buried three meters deep.
Are there any actual measurements of the quiescent currents when the RF receiver is disconnected? Or in other words: What is the minimum quiescent current when everything is in quiescent mode?
Datatek, did you measure yours?
Not keen personally on adding more things to go wrong but having said that, most electronic measuring devices are pretty accurate these days depending on the scale. If the reading is for example X.XX amps, I would expect the accuracy to be +/- 1 of the least significant digit, so for example a reading of 9.45 true could read 9.44 or 9.46. Some are less accurate giving a reading of 9.3 or 9.6 for example.More about the measurement: I saw a digital ammeter on an online store that you can put directly in place of the fuse. The price of the meter was about 20€. If the accuracy of the meter is within reasonable limits, it could be a handy device...
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