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Datatek
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The current draw of the MK1 receiver I have in the quiescent state is 4.74ma with a supply voltage of 12.8 volts.
Ok, it gives a power of 0.064 W, which is not much. This power does not drain the battery in a few days. But as already mentioned, the situation with BeCM may be different if it is operational.
I am sorry that I did not measure the consumption when my car had the RF receiver connected and the BeCM running. I myself have a weather station that works about 10m away from the car.
Question on a different topic: Are there any posts on the forum about installing LED headlights, especially without a parallel resistor, which keeps the current consumption the same as with H4 bulbs. Can BeCM tolerate LED headlights without a fault message if there is no parallel resistor?
I am sorry that I did not measure the consumption when my car had the RF receiver connected and the BeCM running. I myself have a weather station that works about 10m away from the car.
Question on a different topic: Are there any posts on the forum about installing LED headlights, especially without a parallel resistor, which keeps the current consumption the same as with H4 bulbs. Can BeCM tolerate LED headlights without a fault message if there is no parallel resistor?
Datatek
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It's not the RF receiver that drains th battery, it's the fact that it responds to any signal and wakes up the BECM.
No LED headlights without the ballast resistor do not work without a fault message appearing. They are entirely pointless.
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If it’s draining the battery best go through the BECM sleep tests I posted above. Something must be waking up.
When you measure the current you need to wait at least 2-3 mins while monitoring the current.
When you measure the current you need to wait at least 2-3 mins while monitoring the current.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this question. I'll leave this topic now that the battery is working again.
Another question about LED lights: I think they are very necessary here in the Nordic countries. Especially the low beams need improvement when driving on dark roads in the rain. When a car with LED lights comes in front of you, you have to be careful with H4 lights because of the reflections from the wet windshield and the lower light output.
There are also moose here, which you really shouldn't run into.
I think the car should be equipped with the worst weather conditions in mind, when it is reasonably possible.
Another question: Is the internal BeCM diagram available somewhere or is there a party that controls this box?
(hopefully Google translates correctly)
Another question about LED lights: I think they are very necessary here in the Nordic countries. Especially the low beams need improvement when driving on dark roads in the rain. When a car with LED lights comes in front of you, you have to be careful with H4 lights because of the reflections from the wet windshield and the lower light output.
There are also moose here, which you really shouldn't run into.
I think the car should be equipped with the worst weather conditions in mind, when it is reasonably possible.
Another question: Is the internal BeCM diagram available somewhere or is there a party that controls this box?
(hopefully Google translates correctly)
Datatek
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Anyone who cannot see with the standard P38 headlights should not IMO be driving in the dark. LED lights fitted as part of the original design are powerful, the aftermarket ones to replace standard tungsten bulbs are, in my experience, crap less powerful and with a less defined beam.
No drawings of the BECM internals are available to my knowledge, if they are, I'd like a set. A lot can be sussed out from the chip manufacturers data sheets.
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Osram Nightbreaker headlight bulbs are what you need.
I find Phillips Racing Vision 200 better.
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That's strange. I find the H4 originals very good. We don't have moose but the deer here are big enough to cause damage. I would check the lenses are clear and all conncetors are free of corrosion. Some people fit Osram Nightbreakers but I don't think they are necessary on mine.
Easiest fix is a couple of LED spot-lights tied into the high-beam via a relay. Best put a switch for the MoT test.
There are YouTube videos of people fitting LED headlights to the P38A.
The fact is that the P38 headlights are from the early 1980s. Especially the low beams are on par with any car of that time. The high beams have 4 bulbs, which is quite good.
However, the question is about the color of the light. The LED lights have a bright white 6000K, which illuminates even far to the side, and there is no "black moment" when cars meet.
I emphasize once again: It is about making the low beams more efficient.
Another thing worth noting: the power requirement of LED lights is much lower, which inevitably affects fuel consumption.
(For this reason, I have also turned off the electric heating of the windshield.)
I need to figure out how to leave out a possible parallel resistor from the LED bulb, because it is somehow primitive to keep the power consumption as high as in an H4 halogen bulb, so that there is no error message.
However, the question is about the color of the light. The LED lights have a bright white 6000K, which illuminates even far to the side, and there is no "black moment" when cars meet.
I emphasize once again: It is about making the low beams more efficient.
Another thing worth noting: the power requirement of LED lights is much lower, which inevitably affects fuel consumption.
(For this reason, I have also turned off the electric heating of the windshield.)
I need to figure out how to leave out a possible parallel resistor from the LED bulb, because it is somehow primitive to keep the power consumption as high as in an H4 halogen bulb, so that there is no error message.
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The BECM uses specific MosFet's for the light switching, which have current sensing built in. So using LED's without the parallel resistor will give you bulb failure warnings. No way round this.
Personally I've never notice any fuel consumption difference using heated screen or headlights ? Surely two 55W low beam bulbs is rather a small percentage of the 100KW of a 150bhp+ engine ?
Personally I've never notice any fuel consumption difference using heated screen or headlights ? Surely two 55W low beam bulbs is rather a small percentage of the 100KW of a 150bhp+ engine ?
Datatek
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I say again if you cannot see at night with the standard P38 headlights which are pretty good, then maybe you should get your eyes tested.
As pwood999 said there is no way round the MOSFET current sensing.
The difference in fuel consumption is so small as to be unmeasurable and if fuel consumption is that critical to you, you have the wrong vehicle.
Night breakers produce a whiter light.
After market LED spot lights are another possibility.
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Watch vids like this:
Now this conversation has gone wrong. I recently had a medical check-up for my driver's license (ABCE) because I have that big E.
The check-up included an extensive eye exam, which resulted in excellent night vision. So I don't need the suggested eye doctor.
I'm still looking into the possibility of upgrading the headlights, as it will improve the usability of the car and make driving comfortable at night.
The check-up included an extensive eye exam, which resulted in excellent night vision. So I don't need the suggested eye doctor.
I'm still looking into the possibility of upgrading the headlights, as it will improve the usability of the car and make driving comfortable at night.
P38 guy
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That wouldn’t disable the immobilizer itself
P38 guy
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It can’t but if you install it in a right way it would work fine and becm doesn’t stay on. There’s a lot here with aftermarket remotes if not all.
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If it doesn't do anything eg immobilise the engine, what is the problem?
