Central lock

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Sorry for my absence! I think the BeCM has been replaced in my car. The door lock and key fob are original. The codes are gone, I don't have them.
I might not go get the original system for cost reasons, I should change the RF receiver as well, I have a blue dot in the RF housing.
The way I look at it, it could be possible to have aftermarket central locking with a single motor, which would be mounted on the inside of the driver's door lock button bar. If I understand correctly, this could work, and there would be no need to mutilate the wiring harness in the door.
Does anyone have better information or personal experiences?
 
So this maybe a big read, and may also be shot down by others more informed, (where's Marty when you need him :)) And alot of this has already been said before by members that know stuff.

The BECM sends a different code each time you unlock the car, if you don't have any issues starting the car then you don't have any door lock microswitch issues. But as your key fob is US maybe the EKA/Immobilizer has already been disabled? especially as you think the BECM has been replaced.

You can buy a little bit of electrikery that you put in your engine ECU that then doesn't need the signal from the BECM (once it has it 1 time, "learn mode") it puts the ECU in "standalone mode" which means it doesn't need the code/signal from the BECM anymore. This then would allow you to install any aftermarket central locking system on a fob using the original key in the ignition to start the car.
The system may even power the original actuators for the CDL so you could have all doors open, and minimal wiring changes.

Now to do this you could buy the cheap bit of magic and install your self, but you need Diagnostics to put it in learn mode.
Or you could buy a plug and play ECU, more expensive but less than diagnostic equipment. You would also have to deal with getting something from the UK.

You could buy a BECM +ECU +fob/s with locks, (which you wouldn't need) just a key blade change. then you would know they would all match, also they would have the EKA (maybe) so you would be good. TBH the chance your RF receiver is not working is small. Its just earlier ones were prone to interference. As you have no working fob you don't know the state of the RF receiver .

Will you need diagnostics further down the line? yes highly possible if you want to keep and maintain the car yourself.

Many things I am sure will be questioned in what I have just typed:)

J
 
Last edited:
marjon said:
So this maybe a big read, and may also be shot down by others more informed, (where's Marty when you need him :)) And alot of this has already been said before by members that know stuff.

The BECM sends a different code each time you unlock the car, if you don't have any issues starting the car then you don't have any door lock microswitch issues. But as your key fob is US maybe the EKA/Immobilizer has already been disabled? especially as you think the BECM has been replaced.

You can buy a little bit of electrikery that you put in your engine ECU that then doesn't need the signal from the BECM (once it has it 1 time, "learn mode") it puts the ECU in "standalone mode" which means it doesn't need the code/signal from the BECM anymore. This then would allow you to install any aftermarket central locking system on a fob using the original key in the ignition to start the car.
The system may even power the original actuators for the CDL so you could have all doors open, and minimal wiring changes.

Now to do this you could buy the cheap bit of magic and install your self, but you need Diagnostics to put it in learn mode.
Or you could buy a plug and play ECU, more expensive but less than diagnostic equipment. You would also have to deal with getting something from the UK.

You could buy a BECM +ECU +fob/s with locks, (which you wouldn't need) just a key blade change. then you would know they would all match, also they would have the EKA (maybe) so you would be good. TBH the chance your RF receiver is not working is small. Its just earlier ones were prone to interference. As you have no working fob you don't know the state of the RF receiver .

Will you need diagnostics further down the line? yes highly possible if you want to keep and maintain the car yourself.

Many things I am sure will be questioned in what I have just typed:)

J
Click to expand...
Not sure I understand you. It is not possible to put the EDC into "learn mode" there is no such thing on the diesel. The EDC code is a fixed code which can be read with diagnostics, so a simple micro processor board of the hobby type could be programmed to send the required code when the ignition is switched on.
A standard aftermarket FOB/receiver combo will not work with the BECM as it expects to see a valid code when unlock or lock is operated and that code is a rolling code, so any after market system would have to be separate from the BECM.
The best option is your suggestion to replace the BECM/ FOB set. The EDC code can easily be entered into the new BECM with diagnostics.
To the OP, you can check if the BECM has been changed with diagnostics by looking at things like the VIN to see if it matches the car.
 
Datatek said:
Not sure I understand you. It is not possible to put the EDC into "learn mode" there is no such thing on the diesel. The EDC code is a fixed code which can be read with diagnostics, so a simple micro processor board of the hobby type could be programmed to send the required code when the ignition is switched on.
A standard aftermarket FOB/receiver combo will not work with the BECM as it expects to see a valid code when unlock or lock is operated and that code is a rolling code, so any after market system would have to be separate from the BECM.
The best option is your suggestion to replace the BECM/ FOB set. The EDC code can easily be entered into the new BECM with diagnostics.
To the OP, you can check if the BECM has been changed with diagnostics by looking at things like the VIN to see if it matches the car.
Click to expand...
He owns a 4.6 Gems.

J
 
I'm not sure if you understand me with google translate, what I wanted to know from those who have been dealing with these cars for a long time, if I attach a new bar to the door knob bar, does the lock/unlock work, where the doors are locked into the car by pushing the knob down, this bar is connected to the new door motor and is controlled by an aftermarket controller.
In other words: One additional door motor whose operation is mechanically linked to the door lock/unlock knob
No changes are made to the car's original wiring harness inside the door.
The RF receiver is removed by removing the 3-wire plug.
Engine ECM, immobilizer has been removed in England. The car is a TA series -95 - 96 Gems.
 
I think you mean to use a motor to operate the mechanism as if unlocking from the inside?
That's only good if the car doesn't decide to super lock. It also doesn't deal with the Central locking or the immobiliser/alarm
 
kermit_rr said:
I think you mean to use a motor to operate the mechanism as if unlocking from the inside?
That's only good if the car doesn't decide to super lock. It also doesn't deal with the Central locking or the immobiliser/alarm
Click to expand...
Sounds like engine immobilisation has been sorted with “standalone” ecu/ecm.
I am pretty sure super lock can be disabled in the lock mech (somehow).

mikkre said:
I'm not sure if you understand me with google translate, what I wanted to know from those who have been dealing with these cars for a long time, if I attach a new bar to the door knob bar, does the lock/unlock work, where the doors are locked into the car by pushing the knob down, this bar is connected to the new door motor and is controlled by an aftermarket controller.
In other words: One additional door motor whose operation is mechanically linked to the door lock/unlock knob
No changes are made to the car's original wiring harness inside the door.
The RF receiver is removed by removing the 3-wire plug.
Engine ECM, immobilizer has been removed in England. The car is a TA series -95 - 96 Gems.
Click to expand...

So I think adding a aftermarket central locking is possible, with no need to add any actuators in the door.
But using original wiring, but you would need to study the wiring diagrams and look at the superlock issue.

But at the end of the day, cost v problems I would suggest a BECM +fobs would be a plug an play simple result.

J
 
marjon said:
So this maybe a big read, and may also be shot down by others more informed, (where's Marty when you need him :)) And alot of this has already been said before by members that know stuff.

The BECM sends a different code each time you unlock the car, if you don't have any issues starting the car then you don't have any door lock microswitch issues. But as your key fob is US maybe the EKA/Immobilizer has already been disabled? especially as you think the BECM has been replaced.

You can buy a little bit of electrikery that you put in your engine ECU that then doesn't need the signal from the BECM (once it has it 1 time, "learn mode") it puts the ECU in "standalone mode" which means it doesn't need the code/signal from the BECM anymore. This then would allow you to install any aftermarket central locking system on a fob using the original key in the ignition to start the car.
The system may even power the original actuators for the CDL so you could have all doors open, and minimal wiring changes.

Now to do this you could buy the cheap bit of magic and install your self, but you need Diagnostics to put it in learn mode.
Or you could buy a plug and play ECU, more expensive but less than diagnostic equipment. You would also have to deal with getting something from the UK.

You could buy a BECM +ECU +fob/s with locks, (which you wouldn't need) just a key blade change. then you would know they would all match, also they would have the EKA (maybe) so you would be good. TBH the chance your RF receiver is not working is small. Its just earlier ones were prone to interference. As you have no working fob you don't know the state of the RF receiver .

Will you need diagnostics further down the line? yes highly possible if you want to keep and maintain the car yourself.

Many things I am sure will be questioned in what I have just typed:)

J
Click to expand...

US EKA code is 1515.
 
I have also investigated the battery drain. I have read all the forum posts. I have completely removed the RF receiver.
Now I ask what the correct discharge current is when the doors are locked with the key and the alarm is on. Today I have measured the value 0.063A with a clamp meter. I do not consider the reading reliable because the meter does not reset to zero in the DC setting. Today I am going to measure the battery terminal and the cable lug outside with a traditional DC ammeter.
 
mikkre said:
I have also investigated the battery drain. I have read all the forum posts. I have completely removed the RF receiver.
Now I ask what the correct discharge current is when the doors are locked with the key and the alarm is on. Today I have measured the value 0.063A with a clamp meter. I do not consider the reading reliable because the meter does not reset to zero in the DC setting. Today I am going to measure the battery terminal and the cable lug outside with a traditional DC ammeter.
Click to expand...
a clamp meter wont read zero
open the jaws, let the number stabilise, close the jaws, let the number stabilise, then hit the REL button (or similar) to zero the display. then you can take a reading
 
Just measured: between the minus pole and the cable lug with two different meters the result is 0.70mA although it fluctuates slightly over or under.
This is the RF receiver completely disconnected, because central locking via RF has never worked for me. Only from the key.
The result is less than 1 W, which cannot drain the battery in a few days, the BeCM is still in sleep mode.
I did not measure it more precisely with the RF receiver connected before, but I remember the reading with the clamp meter being over 1 ampere when measured in the evening and a dim red light was on at the base of the gear selector at that time. The power at that time was about 12W, which is enough to discharge the battery. The BeCM was probably awake...
 
assume you mean 0.7A?
are you sure its fully going to sleep? its a P38 so when its dark outside, you can check the red light on Park will be very dim with the ignition off, then go out completely when its asleep (its hard to see, it really is very dim)
 
mikkre said:
The meter range was 20 mA and the result on the display was 0.70. Isn't that 0.70mA?
Click to expand...
as stated, the acceptable range is around ~50mA, but can be as low as 20-30mA.
0.7mA is exceedingly small, I would double check the meter setting - can you post a pic? 20mA range is normally what you see for an inline test, not a clamp test
 
Luulen (en tiedä), että se riippuu siitä, mitä toimintoja autossa on valittu. Olen yrittänyt sulkea pois kaiken, mitä en tarvitse. Nämä valinnat voivat vaikuttaa valmiusvirran tarpeeseen ja ennen kaikkea siihen, joka voi herättää nukkuvan BeCM:n. Tämä on vain arvaus, mutta joku voisi verrata version valmiusvirtoja kaikkiin herkkuihin ja riisutun version kanssa, olisiko valmiusvirroissa eroa?
 
I can't get a picture now, but the meter has a DC range divided into 4 parts: 20A, 200m, 20m, and 2m. I have interpreted that little m to mean milliampere. So the measurement was made with wires from the negative side of the battery.
I now have a main switch, to whose poles I have connected the meter and only then opened the main switch. The alarm flasher works all the time, proving the connection to the car's wiring network.
 
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