steve2286w
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I thought the locking compound needed to set before it worked, are you sure threads not stripped it , otherwise it should get tighter did you get the 25Nm
I thought the locking compound needed to set before it worked, are you sure threads not stripped it , otherwise it should get tighter did you get the 25Nm
I did intend to turn it over to do it but I could not get the crankshaft seal on while it was on the engine stand so I had to pick it up on the crane lift it high and do it that way, the gasket wasent perfectly flat so I lifted it up put the bolts in a couple of threads then went round with a torch and made sure all the location lugs were engaged then nipped it up, I did think it might be easier if you stick it to the sump pan with a thin film of silicone first.Looks really good. I take it you turned it upside down on the stand to put the sump on. If it is hard like that then it must be really hard doing it from underneath the car.
I think that nearly bolts rely on elasticity to generate the clamping force needed.I've not done this particular job yet, but I've been surprised at how high some of the recommended torque settings are for the TD5 engine. When I did the injector seals and washers I could hardly believe how tight I was supposed to do up the very skinny bolts holding down the injectors. Some of them were a bit sticky and emitted audible 'cracks' as they moved the last few degrees to the recommended torque value. Plus they're just threaded into an alloy casting. However they're still OK 60,000 miles later. The way the TD5 is put together seems to reply on the elasticity of the bolts themselves in many cases (injectors, head, flywheel to crankshaft to name but a few). This provides a kind of spring-loaded fastening effect. Frightens the life out of me, but with OEM quality stuff they should be specified in such a way as to withstand the forces involved.
If it was mine I'd carry on and see if it will run without blowing too badly. The worst that can happen is that at some point you'll need a ride home on a flatbed truck and do a gasket replacement with the engine in situ.
I think that nearly bolts rely on elasticity to generate the clamping force needed.
I wouldn't worry about your bolts/holes, I would expect they will be fine but I use an assembly paste under the bolthead when I install head bolts. Click here, ARP.
It stops that pinging and lets you torque up nice and smooth.
I noticed on Elring (I think) gaskets now that the torque sequence was a little different from Land Rover's original advice. Instead of 90, 180, 45 degrees, they say 90, 90, 90, 45.
While you're waiting for the next gasket and bolt set to come, screw a bolt into the holes in the block while the head is off. If there's a hairline crack it might only open and show up with a bolt in it. Plus you can feel how loose or tight the threads are. Given the forces involved, they must suffer a fair amount of wear and tear.
Can you please make a video of the first start and runningNew bolts arrived at lunch time, had spent the morning getting ready and making room to work.
I put on the new head gasket
View attachment 189272
I made a chart so that I can tick off all the bolts at each stage and avoid any confusion.
The new bolts looked much better made than the first set I bought they are German made
View attachment 189273
I put some moly grease under the bolt heads between the head and the washer, then went through all of the stages again, but this time it was very different, the bolts pulled up evenly with no cracks or jolts, and at each stage the force needed seemed prety even for each bolt, I was left feeling that it was better, even if it cost a bit to do it.
View attachment 189277
Taking a short holiday and building up my strength to put this big ugly lump back. should be back next week.
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