Bstard bolt came loose on oil pump land rover d2 td5

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davethebuilder

Member
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Location
somerset
Okay I have looked after my land rover d2 td5 2003 like a baby and changed nappies for her when needed and I love her!! But then when the wife went for a drive the oil light came on lost power and stoped. She has got 188000 miles on her and the oil pump bolt decided to undo thank you very much after all those miles not expected. Any way after wipeing away my tears I have removed sump and (bastard) pump the crank looks ok but No 3 crank cap is badly scored and I don't now the part number or where I can get one? I presume it will have to be from a breaker are they inter changeable as they are marked 1 to 5. I am going to replace all conrod shells and crank shells with fingers crossed because I love her any feed back or advice would be most greatfull
 
Dippypud said:
Can I borrow your time machine if you have a D21 ? and are they any good ?

Can the Grown Ups please come and advise this guy as I know fook all ? ...

@gstuart
Click to expand...

TD5 Pilot said:
Has it picked up on the crank shaft?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply no the crank looks fine my problem is the part number for the crank bearing cap marked as number 3 which is damaged and I am unsure if the caps are interchangeable as they are numbered 1 to 5
 
davethebuilder said:
Don't poop yourself just replace the bolt you will only poop when bolt has fallen out trust me
Click to expand...
Trubble is I am in France and I don't fancy taking the sump off on the gravel and weed riven drive. It isn't replacing the bolt that bothers me tis removing and replacing the sump. Especially as I haven't been able to remove the sump plug for years so have had to change oil by syphoning or pumping it out!

I'll have to see about getting a noo gasket and oil pump bolt out here!

Best of luck with solving your problem.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Trubble is I am in France and I don't fancy taking the sump off on the gravel and weed riven drive. It isn't replacing the bolt that bothers me tis removing and replacing the sump. Especially as I haven't been able to remove the sump plug for years so have had to change oil by syphoning or pumping it out!

I'll have to see about getting a noo gasket and oil pump bolt out here!

Best of luck with solving your problem.
Click to expand...

You still don't need to undo the sump nut, just pump as usual but be aware of the residual oil when you drop the sump, you could even get a 'new-to-you' replacement sump with a newish sump plug ...
 
Dippypud said:
You still don't need to undo the sump nut, just pump as usual but be aware of the residual oil when you drop the sump, you could even get a 'new-to-you' replacement sump with a newish sump plug ...
Click to expand...
I am aware of this. The auto box sump also had a plug I could not undo as it was rounded off. In that case it was easier, I emptied what I could out of the filler plug then very carefully took the sump off. amazingly I didn't spill a drop!

TBH I do not think there would be very much residual as when I pump the sump out I really do get most of it out.
But yes, I could do this.
There are lots of threads on this.
Until now I thought that those TD5s with this problem had been sorted out and I wasn't at much risk of it.
But this posted thread has seriously changed my mind.
Typically I could take the sump off and find someone else has already replaced it, in its past life.
But I don't think I dare risk it any longer.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I am aware of this. The auto box sump also had a plug I could not undo as it was rounded off. In that case it was easier, I emptied what I could out of the filler plug then very carefully took the sump off. amazingly I didn't spill a drop!

TBH I do not think there would be very much residual as when I pump the sump out I really do get most of it out.
But yes, I could do this.
There are lots of threads on this.
Until now I thought that those TD5s with this problem had been sorted out and I wasn't at much risk of it.
But this posted thread has seriously changed my mind.
Typically I could take the sump off and find someone else has already replaced it, in its past life.
But I don't think I dare risk it any longer.
Click to expand...

Sooner the better to find out, get the spares in and time it right ...
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Sadly I expected this, I had a feeling all conrods were manufactured as a whole and then the two ends were cut, or am I wrong?
Click to expand...
You are correct! From the LR Diesel Engine TD5 manual:

Fracture split con-rods
The con-rod is identical in design to the con-rod fitted to the Freelander L series engine. It is a fracture split con-rod. This means that the big end bearing cap has no machined surface in contact with the con-rod. In manufacture, the con-rod is bored to a nominal diameter as a one-piece unit. Two grooves are then machined into the inner land and then the cap is forced apart. This causes the metal to fracture, leaving a unique mating surface. Once this proces is completed, the cap is refitted and tightened using two retaining bolts and the final internal diameter is machined. Utilising the fractured state of the cap ensures that the two pieces of the con-rod fit perfectly and possess a strong resistance to lateral movement (side-ways movement).
 
PopPops said:
You are correct! From the LR Diesel Engine TD5 manual:

Fracture split con-rods
The con-rod is identical in design to the con-rod fitted to the Freelander L series engine. It is a fracture split con-rod. This means that the big end bearing cap has no machined surface in contact with the con-rod. In manufacture, the con-rod is bored to a nominal diameter as a one-piece unit. Two grooves are then machined into the inner land and then the cap is forced apart. This causes the metal to fracture, leaving a unique mating surface. Once this proces is completed, the cap is refitted and tightened using two retaining bolts and the final internal diameter is machined. Utilising the fractured state of the cap ensures that the two pieces of the con-rod fit perfectly and possess a strong resistance to lateral movement (side-ways movement).
Click to expand...
Nice to be right for once, but sad for the OP who now has a lot more work to do to fit a new conrod.
 
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