At Last The Big TD5 job

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My spinner oil filter sounds horrid if I use anything other than genuine Lr, so I just use genuine filters now, a little more money but far better sounding​
 
Pateley show yesterday great day out and lovely weather

Rain again today, but the new oil filter, injector clamp bolts and rocker shaft bolts arrived from LR direct, i decided to put new ones in.

Just wonder if anyone has a flow diagram or p&I d of the oil circuit, I am wondering about filling some of the oil through oil pressure switch connection using a small pump, hopefully filling up the oil system before turning the engine. Just wondered if the connection is upstream of the oil filter.
 
If/when i eventually get an engine for ours i had thought of putting the oil filter on before fitting engine to car, then I could at least fill the filter. it is hard enough to get the right angle without it being full of oil. I am not sure if there is any reason this isn't a good idea.
 
If/when i eventually get an engine for ours i had thought of putting the oil filter on before fitting engine to car, then I could at least fill the filter. it is hard enough to get the right angle without it being full of oil. I am not sure if there is any reason this isn't a good idea.


I did intend to fill it and fit before lifting the engine in but what I assumed was an oil filter in my box was a diesel filter, so I had to order the correct one and press on with the job.

With a bit of care you can get the filter on about 80% filled with oil, I always do when I change the oil.
 
I turn the engine over with the starter with the injector loom unplugged for a little while to get the oil circulated when I've had it apart. And I don't rev it for a few moments once it fires. Superstition perhaps, but it makes me feel like I'm looking after it.
 
Just an update.

When I opened up the engine cylinders 2,3,4 looked fine with the usual star shape on top of the piston, they cleaned up quite easily, cylinders 1 and 5 had heavy deposits of soft soot on the piston top. The engine has always been a bit Smokey and struggled on the MOT last time and so even though I didn’t need the extra costs I found a local place who said they can test/overhaul the injectors ( In Silsdon) , I took them to be done, they promised they would be done on Tuesday next week, hope this works out, I have been trying to get some decent used ones for some time but its very difficult, like so many things there are people who replace things and then put the duff ones on E-bay as " from a good working engine".

Using the time to get the last bits together

Put the front crank seal in check with the Vernier to try and get it square.


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Put the pulley back with my impact gun and some locktite on the bolt,
Its far from pristine but it is looking a bit cleaner now, have my eye on that power steering box.

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Few more pipes and wires, still never seen a picture of how they are routed when brand new so just try my best.
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The slam pannel and other bits at the front are a pain.
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Well starting to come together.
Just need the injectors back, decided just to fill it with oil when I put in the injectors and pour it over the cam and rockers, then take out the relay and spin it on the starter untill the red light goes off, then bleed the fuel system and cross my fingers.
Hope to have some news by Wednesday
 
Just an update.

When I opened up the engine cylinders 2,3,4 looked fine with the usual star shape on top of the piston, they cleaned up quite easily, cylinders 1 and 5 had heavy deposits of soft soot on the piston top. The engine has always been a bit Smokey and struggled on the MOT last time and so even though I didn’t need the extra costs I found a local place who said they can test/overhaul the injectors ( In Silsdon) , I took them to be done, they promised they would be done on Tuesday next week, hope this works out, I have been trying to get some decent used ones for some time but its very difficult, like so many things there are people who replace things and then put the duff ones on E-bay as " from a good working engine".

Using the time to get the last bits together

Put the front crank seal in check with the Vernier to try and get it square.


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Put the pulley back with my impact gun and some locktite on the bolt,
Its far from pristine but it is looking a bit cleaner now, have my eye on that power steering box.

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Few more pipes and wires, still never seen a picture of how they are routed when brand new so just try my best.
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View attachment 190717
The slam pannel and other bits at the front are a pain.
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View attachment 190719

Well starting to come together.
Just need the injectors back, decided just to fill it with oil when I put in the injectors and pour it over the cam and rockers, then take out the relay and spin it on the starter untill the red light goes off, then bleed the fuel system and cross my fingers.
Hope to have some news by Wednesday
Awesome. Good luck with the start up. :)
 
Still waiting for the injectors, hope they will be done by tomorrow.
Annealed the copper washers and put numbers 2,3,4 injectors in and filled up the cooling system, getting a bit nervous now.
 
Well been busy
I checked up and found my fuel cooler has a water flow restricter in it already so no need to fit one.

Filled up the cooling system and bled it out best I could
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Annealed the copper washers and fitted my injectors now I have the two re conditioned ones back. I always pull down the rocker shaft very evenly half a turn at a time because one end is always up on the cam shaft and needs to squeeze the injector spring down as it pulls down, do'nt forget to back off the bump adjusters before you pull it down.
So all down and torqued up now.

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Poured in the oil over the cam shaft and the rocker shaft to get it well soaked also run some over the timing chain, I also added some Zink enriched running in oil to the mix.

Then I turned it over 4 times using a breaker bar and a socket on the crank pulley. then added a bit more oil and set all the bump clearances to one full turn backed off.

Put back the rocker cover.

Getting nervous now, check over everything and connected up the battery (charged it yesterday).

Spin over the engine on the starter with the injector plug off, took longer than I thought to get the oil light off,

Purge the fuel system 5 times while looking over everything.

I wanted to do a video as requested but things went a bit wonky here, I started the camera and spun it over 7 or 8 times in short bursts, got out to check things and found a pool of oil on the floor Oh NO !! stopped the camara, cleaned up the mess and checked over the engine, one of the oil filter mounting bolts was loose, imagine someone my age leaving a bolt loose I am ashamed, nipped up and put back the heat shield (dammed thing) .

Spin it over again and it coughed, couple more then a longer kick, spin it again and hit the throttle cough splutter and a puff of grey smoke

SHE LIVES

Ticking over beautifully sounds a bit tappety but to be expected, left it ticking for a while then took it out on the road, I had a puff of black smoke as I started up the hill but let’s not worry till it’s done a few hundred miles.

Came back and now its hot sounds great, re started it and it fires in a second (when warm)

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Ive earned a rest from this, next week I may pull off the rocker cover and see if all is well in there.
So thanks to all who helped, supported, and encouraged me its been a tough one made me feel my age but just hope its all been worth it.
To anyone who has a TD5 I would say change the oil + filter regularly and look after it and should last donkeys years, if you are thinking of overhauling it look back at this, its bloody hard work and you will probably find its in pretty good condition anyway.
Going to take a break and look at stopping it leaking into the back of the cab when it rains.
 

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Very nice mate, you could always do a cold start video with it running
Will try that if you like.

Tried the Nanocom after the first run, I was pleased to see the injector balance while running was way down, highest was about +5 in very short bursts as it warmed up then it was more like + - 1 to 3.
Hope the smoke goes down.
I plan to do some short runs and then if I am happy give it a long blast and see how it performs, one thing I noticed while setting up the bump clearances was the compression, on No 3 cylinder it actualy jumped backwards a by a small amount when I stopped pushing on the breaker bar.
 
Congratulations. Very pleased to hear it's running well. It's a great pleasure to see nice tight cylinder balance values as well.
 
Is she starting nicely from cold ray?
Half a dozen starts so far and she fires instantly even cold, took it for a run of about 35 miles yestetday and performance seems fine pulls much when better hot.
So today during a break in the rain I took off the rocker cover to see how its going.
Frankly I am a bit concerned how little oil seems to have splashed around in there under the rocker cover was fairly dry except the part over the timing chain, in desperation I put some cloth around the engine and started it for a couple of seconds with the cover off.
Oil sprayed off the timing chain but I csnt see any coming out of the rocker shaft or rollers.
Am I just winding myself up?
Sat thinking about it now and I may take out the oil pressure switch and couple up a small pump then run it for a while and see if I can learn more.
I also wondered about connecting into the pipe which feeds the vac pump and feeding oil backwards into the head to see if it oozes out around the cam shaft.
Will try to post my pictures tomorrow as I locked the camera in the garage tonight.
 
You don't get a massive amount thrown around in there. It oozes out of some of the joints and because everything's warm, including the oil, it disappears back down the holes into the sump pretty quickly, and until it gets dirty you don't see much trace. The inside of my rocker cover usually looks pretty clean. Anyway if the mechanism were running too dry, you'd see some witness marks/fretting on the cams and followers by now after 35 miles testing the performance. Or bluish bits where stuff had overheated! Assuming the engine hadn't stalled as a result of the camshaft welding itself into its bearings with the heat.
 
I knew someone who seized his Ford OHC engine this way. It lasted about 5 miles. I think the Pinto engines had an external oil pipe serving the head and he'd succeeded in blocking it with sealant whilst trying to address a minor oil leak. So after 35 miles I think if this was going to happen you'd have noticed by now.
 
I knew someone who seized his Ford OHC engine this way. It lasted about 5 miles. I think the Pinto engines had an external oil pipe serving the head and he'd succeeded in blocking it with sealant whilst trying to address a minor oil leak. So after 35 miles I think if this was going to happen you'd have noticed by now.
Thanks I wondered about that, in total probably done close to 50 miles, including about 5 miles at 50mph on the A59, couldn't see much drastic damage some slight marking on the cams, valve rollers were very shiny I have some pictures and will post tomorrow.
Been thinking it through and i am going to take off the oil feed to the vac pump and spin the engine with the injector plug off, this will establish if the oil gallery is pressurized. Then I will try to pump oil into the oil pressure switch opening with a small pump, if I can manage this for 10 minutes I can look for signs of oil coming out around the cam and rockers.
Crossing my fingers.
 
Just to show the pictures I took yesterday

Here is the rocker shaft before start up, look between the valve tappets seems prety dry to me, oil in the recesses near the head bolts is probably from when I filled it up by pouring oil over the shaft and rockers.

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This is the cover, I put it back and ran the engine but it looks prety dry, I seem to remember it dripping oil when I have done the injector seals in the past
You can see the oil in the timing chain compartment


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