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Lovely. Be good to see you.
Its what I did to get my gearbox off to change the clutch. Not so easy to bend back to get the bolts through again though.I recon that's it someone bent it up and then just left it floating about, it's been on my hit list for a while now.
I am still waiting for all my parts to come, and hope to start rebuilding very soon and wrap things up by the end of next week, would be nice to give it a run over to your project when I am happy its OK.
Its what I did to get my gearbox off to change the clutch. Not so easy to bend back to get the bolts through again though.
View attachment 188231
I managed to bend mine back and get the bolts through with a struggle but I now have taken the engine out and when I get another engine, I might try using longer bolts to start. But there again I didn't need to bend the tabs taking the engine out.I suppose that's why people bend them up and leave them there.
It's easier to get the bellhousing bolted onto the block and then take the top two bolts out and bend the tabs back down. Then squash 'em into place using a longer 10mm bolt to begin with and then the original ones.
Well, if I was taking the engine out I'd probably be taking all the hoses off anyway, so it would be a bit easier in that respect. The problem arises because whenever I've had the gearbox off I've tried to do with without having to drain and disassemble the cooling system.I managed to bend mine back and get the bolts through with a struggle but I now have taken the engine out and when I get another engine, I might try using longer bolts to start. But there again I didn't need to bend the tabs taking the engine out.
Going well , I got the kings bearings and was happy with them, it’s the little things that can cause an issue , have you got some blue sealant in the bottom block holes, I lost time and patience fitting the head bolts cos I had’nt cleaned the holes proper and tested bolts all the way to bottom and then learned the Same lesson again on the sump!
I dint have a compressed air supply but improvise the bike floor pump with a bit brake pipe in end for blowing out the holes
Looking good Ray.
Remarkably clean engine there, mine has always been a mucky bugger - but as I found out on the last rebuild, 5 conrods with worn small end bushings really does not help at all
Regarding the lack of wear on the shells, I can't help but notice that your engine has an AMC head, did you fit that? Perhaps previous owner renewed the bearings when the head was replaced (assuming you didn't)...
Also, regrading the cam, try and use a high zinc content oil, the TD5 head is very similar to VW PD type engines and they require their own higher zinc content oil formulations - most oils changed to be low zinc at the time they went low ash, this was to prevent damage to catalytic converters. Unfortunately it doesn't help the cam/rocker rollers in the TD5.
I had the same oil issue around my vac pump outlet, but it was actually oil escaping the front crank seal and being blown around the side.
Regarding oil, I tend to wait for Halfords to have a half price offer on Castrol Magentic 5w30 fully synth, I then add a ZDDP additive to the oil when I do a change.
Failing that, just any decent quality 5w30 fully synth, 5w40 should be just fine in UK climate too but might lower mileage a smidge due to increased viscosity (ha, like we'd ever notice).
Well sitting around waiting for a delivery so I popped out and took a look, and it looks like the shells were original, so either they were replaced with original parts or they are genuine 120K miles.
I looked for some additive for the oil but I think its no longer sold in the UK.]
Those bearings look ok.
Hate to think what my 185k bearings look like lol.
I'd blow out and brake clean all the bolts holes for peace of mind..
I usually wash out a fresh build 3-4 times, ya don't want grease and/or crap going in there while building.
I use diluted simple green and big-small bottle brushes.
Probably just been treated very well then, mine's been ragged within an inch of its life.
I usually buy the ZDDP stuff on fleabay - only place I can find it.
It is supposed to be torqued to 25nm so it will depend on the torque wrench used how tight that will feel. A short 1/4" will feel tighter than using a longer 1/2" wrench. I am sure it will be fine. When I get an engine for our disco I am going to use brake cleaner to clean the threads, add some extra loctite 242 to supplement the original and then torque it up to that value + a couple of nm extra in case the torque wrench is at the other end of its tolerance.
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