Ace amber warning light on

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I used an angle grinder on the pump pair, then cleaned up well.

As to block most of us get the block machined 1/4" BSP with flat surface for Dowty washer

Ram pipes 2m all 1/4" BSP, Dowty washer, swivel male in block, Dowty washer, male end - 2m hose - 14mm banjo, 2 LR Ram seals, 1 LR Ram nut (used new)
Pump pipes just under 1m to cut section. Dowty washer, 1/4" BSP swivel, Dowty washer, 1/4" BSP Male end, 3/8" BSP pipe, then whatever you can get to compression fittings to 3/8" BSP.

Done 3 years ago I think.
 
MJI said:
I used an angle grinder on the pump pair, then cleaned up well.

As to block most of us get the block machined 1/4" BSP with flat surface for Dowty washer

Ram pipes 2m all 1/4" BSP, Dowty washer, swivel male in block, Dowty washer, male end - 2m hose - 14mm banjo, 2 LR Ram seals, 1 LR Ram nut (used new)
Pump pipes just under 1m to cut section. Dowty washer, 1/4" BSP swivel, Dowty washer, 1/4" BSP Male end, 3/8" BSP pipe, then whatever you can get to compression fittings to 3/8" BSP.

Done 3 years ago I think.
Click to expand...
Thank you mate
 
sierrafery said:
Hi, you'll understand from the attached picture just try to push the plate back as to not disturb the non leaking pipes release the bracket which holds them to the chassis as to be able to pull out the leaking pipe and replace the seal, this one: https://www.lrdirect.com/RVW100010-supplied-by-LRDIRECT-branded-OEM.html but order 4 x https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR6700-supplied-by-britpart-branded-oem.html and change them all . After you pull out the pipe do somehow to clean well the hole where the seal goes and put oil on the orings. that black thing on the seal is just to hit it with a hammer untill the seal is in then disposable.

For the future you can remove the block or buy a used one and addapt compression fittings to it for flexible pipes see this ACE fluid weep front of valve block ... you can prepare all you need to be ready to fit then at a point you can convert to flexibe pipes and you'll be leak free for eternity, the market is full with cheap(ish) valve blocks due to the de-ACE hysteria of those who choosed to get rid of the whole system due to a leaking pipe or some other fault, e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Ace-Valve-Block-Pump-In-Good-Working-Order/223972288014?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225114&meid=55f6c72e6a6542e48d27175415ac7d76&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=324114485503&itm=223972288014&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

i have the whole setup(modified block + pipes) prepared but not fitted it yet, i'll wait for a leak first, costed me the equivalent of around 150 quid all in.

View attachment 205075
Click to expand...
Hello mate hope your well, good news today !!!! FIANLY NO ACE LEAKS ! After fitting my upgraded block all is well no body roll and no ace leaks ! Sounds like for now we’re finally at the end of the mystery ,
Now I need your expertise on a new problem
My intake air temp is fine when cruise soon as you put your foot down it jumps in a flash between -300oc and +500oc, and everywhere in between,
No when this happens the car bogs down and dosent accelerate , until the readings go back to normal,
Where is the intake air temp sensor located mate ?
 
Hi, inlet not intake... you need new MAP/IAT sensor(in the inlet manifold), unless you are unlucky like with the ACE to be a wiring issue in the sensor's circuit

p/n MHK100600 the best is genuine LR cos it's important sensor but if it's too expensive get bosch 0 281 002 205
 
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MAP sensor is in the intake manifold, and I'd try cleaning it first to be sure it isn't just dirty. Just use the usual sensor cleaner. But as @sierrafery says, if it is fu cked you've got no choice but to replace it, with a decent one! It does make a huge difference to how it runs!
 
sierrafery said:
Hi, inlet not intake... you need new MAP/IAT sensor(in the inlet manifold), unless you are unlucky like with the ACE to be a wiring issue in the sensor's circuit

p/n MHK100600 the best is genuine LR cos it's important sensor but if it's too expensive get bosch 0 281 002 205
Click to expand...
Sorry mate I will bear the terminology in mind, thank you my friend I will get one order up, if not I have my trust multi meter here now ;)
 
sierrafery said:
You did it again :)... correct is INLET not intake .... "intake" refers to the airbox side :cool:
Click to expand...
Fu ck me, for once i thort I got it right!
and you worry about your use of English!!!!!!!!!!
Too much gin before dinner and too much wine with dinner and....
tell me, under lockdown, how busy are you at work? Les aiguilleurs du ciel travaillent plus ou moins????
:):):):):):):)
Where would I be without my guardian angel keeping me safe!
Ta mate! I really MUST pay a bit more attention to my use of English!
(At least you didn't disagree with the general tone of my post!)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Fu ck me, for once i thort I got it right!
and you worry about your use of English!!!!!!!!!!
Too much gin before dinner and too much wine with dinner and....
tell me, under lockdown, how busy are you at work? Les aiguilleurs du ciel travaillent plus ou moins????
:):):):):):):)
Where would I be without my guardian angel keeping me safe!
Ta mate! I really MUST pay a bit more attention to my use of English!
(At least you didn't disagree with the general tone of my post!)
Click to expand...
We’re all on the same page gents no harm done
 
Megamagelol1 said:
Is there any reading we can make with a multi meter before I commit to buy this expensive sensor ? Just so we can be sure it’s the sensor that’s broken? Thank you mate
Click to expand...
The problem is that the sympom occurs only while driving under load which means a continuity check would not help much stationary, unfortunately that's a kind of fault when the sensor must be ruled out first cos chasing some wiring issue wihout that is feckless
 
sierrafery said:
The problem is that the sympom occurs only while driving under load which means a continuity check would not help much stationary, unfortunately that's a kind of fault when the sensor must be ruled out first cos chasing some wiring issue wihout that is feckless
Click to expand...
That makes sense mate before I commit to the price of a new one I’m picking a know working one up Monday to try, tomorrow I will try to clean my old one tomorrow, thanks gents I will keep you updated on my progress, but let’s not forget I have a fully functioning ACE system :)))))))
 
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