Ace amber warning light on

Megamagelol1 said:

Hi again mate light is off! New wire come red all taped up ! But...... I now have a leak from the bottom of the 4 pipes coming out of the ACE block towards the front of car, from around where it meets the block and collar. Any ideas how to get them off or replaced ? Thanks

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

Hi, you'll understand from the attached picture just try to push the plate back as to not disturb the non leaking pipes release the bracket which holds them to the chassis as to be able to pull out the leaking pipe and replace the seal, this one: https://www.lrdirect.com/RVW100010-supplied-by-LRDIRECT-branded-OEM.html but order 4 x https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR6700-supplied-by-britpart-branded-oem.html and change them all . After you pull out the pipe do somehow to clean well the hole where the seal goes and put oil on the orings. that black thing on the seal is just to hit it with a hammer untill the seal is in then disposable.

For the future you can remove the block or buy a used one and addapt compression fittings to it for flexible pipes see this ACE fluid weep front of valve block ... you can prepare all you need to be ready to fit then at a point you can convert to flexibe pipes and you'll be leak free for eternity, the market is full with cheap(ish) valve blocks due to the de-ACE hysteria of those who choosed to get rid of the whole system due to a leaking pipe or some other fault, e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Ace-Valve-Block-Pump-In-Good-Working-Order/223972288014?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225114&meid=55f6c72e6a6542e48d27175415ac7d76&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=324114485503&itm=223972288014&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

i have the whole setup(modified block + pipes) prepared but not fitted it yet, i'll wait for a leak first, costed me the equivalent of around 150 quid all in.

View attachment 205075

Click to expand...

lynx45 said:

Hi I would rip it all out get modified valve block an convert it all to hydraulic hose I did this with mine when one of the front pipes started leaking no issues since you'll be chasing pipes and there are 8 of them at great expense mine came in all in total with modified block an hydraulic hose came about £550 doing it myself side of the road hope this helps

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

Hi, you'll understand from the attached picture just try to push the plate back as to not disturb the non leaking pipes release the bracket which holds them to the chassis as to be able to pull out the leaking pipe and replace the seal, this one: https://www.lrdirect.com/RVW100010-supplied-by-LRDIRECT-branded-OEM.html but order 4 x https://www.lrdirect.com/ANR6700-supplied-by-britpart-branded-oem.html and change them all . After you pull out the pipe do somehow to clean well the hole where the seal goes and put oil on the orings. that black thing on the seal is just to hit it with a hammer untill the seal is in then disposable.

For the future you can remove the block or buy a used one and addapt compression fittings to it for flexible pipes see this ACE fluid weep front of valve block ... you can prepare all you need to be ready to fit then at a point you can convert to flexibe pipes and you'll be leak free for eternity, the market is full with cheap(ish) valve blocks due to the de-ACE hysteria of those who choosed to get rid of the whole system due to a leaking pipe or some other fault, e.g https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Ace-Valve-Block-Pump-In-Good-Working-Order/223972288014?_trkparms=aid=1110001&algo=SPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=225114&meid=55f6c72e6a6542e48d27175415ac7d76&pid=100010&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=324114485503&itm=223972288014&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

i have the whole setup(modified block + pipes) prepared but not fitted it yet, i'll wait for a leak first, costed me the equivalent of around 150 quid all in.

View attachment 205075

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

Use some kind of spray eventually heat and tap it all around with hammer by or try to force a flat head screwdriver under it or something... you'll have to find your way as mine was removed by a mechanic

Click to expand...

Megamagelol1 said:

Hi mate I’m finally tackling this as all the bits have come in having trouble removing the clamping plate after the nuts have been removed it seems welded on haha, don’t want to damage anything though, any suggestions

Click to expand...

MJI said:

I had to destroy my pipes to get them out the front.

Click to expand...

MJI said:

I had to destroy my pipes to get them out the front.

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

Use some kind of spray eventually heat and tap it all around with hammer by or try to force a flat head screwdriver under it or something... you'll have to find your way as mine was removed by a mechanic

Click to expand...

Megamagelol1 said:

Right got it all off cleaned up replaced o rings and still ****ing leaking

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

So did you replace the o-rings or the whole seal?

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

So did you replace the o-rings or the whole seal?

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

WARNING: if the pump will get empty you MUST prime it well after refilling the system or it'll fail

Click to expand...

sierrafery said:

I can't recommend you a cutter but i can tell you that you don't need hawkeye to bleed it cos it will bleed itself but priming the pump is a different story, you'll have to fill the system then undo the outlet banjo on the pump and ask somebody to start the engine then when a good pressure is coming out there stop the engine right away and tighten the banjo back, maybe would be good to replace the dowty washers(RYF100420) cos once disturbed they can leak as it will be up to 140 Bar there... when all is done go for a harsh ride with lots of cornering or drive it in 8's if you have where and it will bleed itself then top up the fluid again if necessary. That's all

Click to expand...