Disco 2 ACE Problem

Gros Niglik · Monday at 15:25

sierrafery said:
So, tested nanocom on mine, the values at idle from cold start are as in the pic with slight fluctuations(there are moments when some silly values are displayed for a second but that's certainly a glitch), on the DCV's the values were 0.000 at first then i checked again after the output tests and they were 0.001(not relevant IMO)... sorry for the quality it
was sunny outside but you can see if you magnify it.

The warning lamp starts flashing on Output - ON command and stops with OFF, for the DCV test - ON extreme attention is needed but you must feel a short movement in the body once then OFF on that valve and go to to the other which must behave the same... just be aware that it's a very weak movement but if you expect to feel it it's certainly there, try more times on both valves consecutively with on-off as i explained... or get assistance, my son kept his hand on the DCVs and he noticed some activity

see the video(it expires in 24 hours) how the fluid's activity must be:

IMO if your ACE fluid is not pretty the same with the PAS your problem is definitely with the pressure for some reason(i dont know why yet, might be as simple as dirt in the block)

Thanks for the video. Compared to the video I have almost no movement in the reservoir. With regards the values shown on the Nanocom, I have the following:
Pressure sensor: 016.44 vs 18.76
Residual pressure: 000.34 vs 6.47
System pressure: 000.34 vs 6.45
It appears that my system pressure is half of what you are seeing. This could be a result of: 1. Faulty ACE pump (not likely because it is new, unless it was damaged when the hydraulic pipes were installed incorrectly, 2. Restriction in the high pressure line (attenuator damaged?) 3. Blockage in valve block.
The output tests do not result in any flashing warning light or movement due to acuators eing energised. This makes me think that there is an electrical problem. What is curious is that the system functioned before I changed the hydraulic pipes.

Gros Niglik · Monday at 15:30

MJI said:
I have a dodgy solenoid I need to swap out (sitting in new solenoid storage between the seats), triggered other side of Hereford, then near Llandovery.

Was very unsteady when not running.

Both times I reset with Hawkeye and carried on

I hear you. Hindsight agrees with you. However, after changing all the hydraulic pipes, new ACE pump, new (used valve block, new front actuatorand new (used) ECU, new "blue" pressure control valve solenoid and the directional solenoids test correctly, I am reluctant to have the problem get the better of me at this stage. Thanks for your comments.

sierrafery · Monday at 16:02

Gros Niglik said:
The output tests do not result in any flashing warning light or movement due to acuators eing energised. This makes me think that there is an electrical problem.

Usually an electrical problem would bring on the amber or red warning instantly after the self test and should not affect the activity in the reservoir cos at idle the fluid recirculates with free flow, unplug all the solenoid connectors and watch if the activity in the reservoir improves or not to rule out a short to supply on the pressure side but it's quite unlikely... it's possible that there is no movement on the DCV tests due to low pressure as the actuator can't move without pressure.

the fact that the warning light doesnt react to the output command but it comes on while driving is very strange i can't find an explanation for that other than the replacement ECU is faulty too or your nanocom makes tricks(is it upgraded to the last firmware?)

Undo the pump's outlet and return pipe from the block and connect them together with a piece of hose and clamps and watch the reservoir then...if it will not be as in the video this way means that the pump was hurt or the feed pipe clogged when you connected the pipes reverted but if the fluid will circulate hard this way replace the valve block. Good luck

Gros Niglik · Monday at 16:33

Again, your comments are invaluble. I will do as you suggest. As mentioned in my itriductory profile, I completed a ground up rotisserie restoration of a 1965 Jaguar E type. Attache is an image. The electrical diagram is only one (1) page. Life was simpler then. I underline that I am a hobby enthusiast but have learned many things about cars and boats due to this uncurable obsession. Never too proud to ask for help!

MJI · Monday at 16:46

Gros Niglik said:
I hear you. Hindsight agrees with you. However, after changing all the hydraulic pipes, new ACE pump, new (used valve block, new front actuatorand new (used) ECU, new "blue" pressure control valve solenoid and the directional solenoids test correctly, I am reluctant to have the problem get the better of me at this stage. Thanks for your comments.

I did the hose conversion with mine, it is staying!

After running wrong way I would try the above pump check.

To be honest, has to be pump or attenuator.

Gros Niglik · Monday at 19:04

What you say makes sense. I will try test as soon as I am able.

Gros Niglik · 2025-01-29T21:18:21+0000

I did the testand there definately was more circulation in the reservoir, but nothing like in the PAS reservoir. If I crack open the banjo joint on the ACE pump it squirts significantly. This leads to believe that the problem is a damaged attenuator in the high pressure pipe. I have ordered a new one and hope to have it in hand before the weekend. BTW with the high pressure line anttached to the return line, the amber light illuminates.

Disco 2 ACE Problem

Gros Niglik

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sierrafery

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MJI

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