Ace amber warning light on

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Megamagelol1 said:
Getting open loop from both DCV plugs back to co377,
Click to expand...
Aren't the DCV's linked to 0391? 0377 should be linked to the ECU

All i can think is that wiring is hurt somewhere and under the solenoid's load it looses conductivity, i presume that the readings are higher than 2.7 ... make a bridge with a piece of wire in the connectors and measure that way from C0391, and if you get ''solid'' closed loop wire up a H4 bulb if you have and connect it into the plug and compare the bulb's resistance with the circuit's.
 
sierrafery said:
Aren't the DCV's linked to 0391? 0377 should be linked to the ECU

All i can think is that wiring is hurt somewhere and under the solenoid's load it looses conductivity, i presume that the readings are higher than 2.7 ... make a bridge with a piece of wire in the connectors and measure that way from C0391, and if you get ''solid'' closed loop wire up a H4 bulb if you have and connect it into the plug and compare the bulb's resistance with the circuit's.
Click to expand...
Yeah sorry that’s what I ment,
I’ve cut one of the plugs off so I can test the other side of plug, both are open loops and I’ve tested the solenoids and there between 1.9-2.4 ohms
I’m really scratching my head now, I haven’t got one of those bulbs,
It’s all reading good and then as soon I connect it back it all reads high again, how would I go about now narrowing down the fault ?
 
Hook somehow a bulb to the wires where you cut the plug and compare resistances as i said before or connect the DCV plug to the PCV if it fits(i didnt try that to know) and if then you get good reading like for the PCV circuit it means that the DCV solenoids have some internal problem which might be quite likely if the reading jumps between 1.9 - 2.4 as you jiggle on the pins with the multimeter's probes while it was 2.7 before, the DCV's resistance should be very close to 2.5 and steady but seems that they can drop below 2 which is not good anyway so there coild have been some water ingress in them and there is corrosion where the pins connect to the winding inside or something... too bad i didnt cut one in half to see how it's inside.
 
sierrafery said:
Hook somehow a bulb to the wires where you cut the plug and compare resistances as i said before or connect the DCV plug to the PCV if it fits(i didnt try that to know) and if then you get good reading like for the PCV circuit it means that the DCV solenoids have some internal problem which might be quite likely if the reading jumps between 1.9 - 2.4 as you jiggle on the pins with the multimeter's probes while it was 2.7 before, the DCV's resistance should be very close to 2.5 and steady but seems that they can drop below 2 which is not good anyway so there coild have been some water ingress in them and there is corrosion where the pins connect to the winding inside or something... too bad i didnt cut one in half to see how it's inside.
Click to expand...
Hi mate right got to bottom of it, it’s the red/green wire is broken,
I’ve ordered all the connectors I need but what wire is it ? What amp is the wire used ? thanks again mate for all your help
 
  • Like
Reactions: MJI
Megamagelol1 said:
Hi mate right got to bottom of it, it’s the red/green wire is broken,
I’ve ordered all the connectors I need but what wire is it ? What amp is the wire used ? thanks again mate for all your help
Click to expand...
Well done m8, congratulation for your insistence, that wire is common for both DCVs hence those erratic readings with solenoids connected... others would have binned the whole system for such fault, the original wire is 1.5 sq mm so dont go below that gauge... for future reference cos i see you became handy with electrics the wire's gauge is shown in the diagram near the colour code and the figure(1.5 in this case) is the gauge in square mm... though i hope you identified the correct wire cos that from pin 2 should be GR(green with red trace) not red/green as you wrote. Good luck , i hope your next message will be that the ACE warning is off:) ... but dont hesitate to ask if you have other dillemas cos i like to be part of happy endings :cool:.
 
sierrafery said:
Well done m8, congratulation for your insistence, that wire is common for both DCVs hence those erratic readings with solenoids connected... others would have binned the whole system for such fault, the original wire is 1.5 sq mm so dont go below that gauge... for future reference cos i see you became handy with electrics the wire's gauge is shown in the diagram near the colour code and the figure(1.5 in this case) is the gauge in square mm... though i hope you identified the correct wire cos that from pin 2 should be GR(green with red trace) not red/green as you wrote. Good luck , i hope your next message will be that the ACE warning is off:) ... but dont hesitate to ask if you have other dillemas cos i like to be part of happy endings :cool:.
Click to expand...
Sorry mate my terminology with electrics is still not 100% but yes that’s the wire I ment, thanks so much again I couldn’t have dont it with your help! I’m going to order my wire now and fingers crossed when everything is here the ace light will be extinguished once more :)
 
Good news then, another system saved.

Oh and when it starts leaking fix it don't bin it.

Mine is on hydraulic hoses.
 
sierrafery said:
Welcome any time. Out of curiosity how did you find out that the wire is broken ?
Click to expand...
Well I Temporarily Spliced a wire onto the GR wire at DCV 2) I then ran that wire over the bonnet and it gave me a reading of 2.5
So I then chased in wire past we’re the GR wire is joined going to DCV1 and tested that and that gave a reading of 2.5 so I figured that the damaged wire must be after the join.
All I’ll do is run a new wire through the harness cut it of near plug CO391 and also cut it the other end of joiner and connect there so I don’t have to rewire all the DCV plugs
 
Megamagelol1 said:
Well I Temporarily Spliced a wire onto the GR wire at DCV 2) I then ran that wire over the bonnet and spliced to
C0391 and it gave me a reading of 2.5
So I then chased in wire past we’re the GR wire is joined going to DCV1 and tested that and that gave a reading of 2.5 so I figured that the damaged wire must be after the join.
All I’ll do is run a new wire through the harness cut it of near plug CO391 and also cut it the other end of joiner and connect there so I don’t have to rewire all the DCV plugs
Click to expand...
 
Well done.... though IMO it would be better to join the new wire near the DCV plugs with the GR wires from both plugs cos there is that A26 joint point shwn in the diagram where i suspect the problem is that's why first time you've got bad readings on both DCVs
 
sierrafery said:
Well done.... though IMO it would be better to join the new wire near the DCV plugs with the GR wires from both plugs cos there is that A26 joint point shwn in the diagram where i suspect the problem is that's why first time you've got bad readings on both DCVs
Click to expand...
Yeah well I thought that but as I checked it nearer the engine that the joiner I assumed that all the wiring the other side of it ( towards the block) was okay, I will make sure I take my time when connecting and test as I go mate
 
Good luck... the fault was found so now you'll have to find the best way to fix it just dont forget that it's a resistive interruption which reacts to the solenoid's load that's why a new wire all the way would be the best fix... and clear the faut codes after the job is done
 
sierrafery said:
Good luck... the fault was found so now you'll have to find the best way to fix it just dont forget that it's a resistive interruption which reacts to the solenoid's load that's why a new wire all the way would be the best fix... and clear the faut codes after the job is done
Click to expand...
Thank you mate yeah I will see how it goes, then to fit a water pump on my p38 v8 and fix blend motors and heater matrix O rings
 
sierrafery said:
I hope you''ll update the evolution cos i'm curious
Click to expand...
On the ace light mate ?
I Temporarily ran a wire down from the plug and perfects readings in everything. turned the car on, no ace light !!! And all the readings from live data and perfect. Now just to connect it properly, tape it all up get the loom back out the way and nice and water tight then job done
 
Megamagelol1 said:
On the ace light mate ?
Click to expand...
Off course, i just wanted a confirmation that all is working now after such an "adventure" :cool:

So it seems it's sorted then... well done, I'm a fan of the ACE system and hate seing how people gets rid of it at the first issue...you did well, these kind of wiring issues are the worst of all but at least this thread is an evidence that everything is fixable and it didnt cost much money either. :)
 
sierrafery said:
Off course, i just wanted a confirmation that all is working now after such an "adventure" :cool:

So it seems it's sorted then... well done, I'm a fan of the ACE system and hate seing how people gets rid of it at the first issue...you did well, these kind of wiring issues are the worst of all but at least this thread is an evidence that everything is fixable and it didnt cost much money either. :)
Click to expand...
Oh yeah sorry dude, yeah so Once I get it all wired up, just gotta double check it thats all,
And yeah exactly , people spend £400-£500 putting a ACE delete kit on it,
When really it’s a fairly simple system.
and mate I couldn’t have dont it without you, this will set me up in further for how to fine electrical faults like this,
I will always keep in contact my friend and I hope you will do the same :)
 
sierrafery said:
Off course, i just wanted a confirmation that all is working now after such an "adventure" :cool:

So it seems it's sorted then... well done, I'm a fan of the ACE system and hate seing how people gets rid of it at the first issue...you did well, these kind of wiring issues are the worst of all but at least this thread is an evidence that everything is fixable and it didnt cost much money either. :)
Click to expand...
Hi again mate light is off! New wire come red all taped up ! But...... I now have a leak from the bottom of the 4 pipes coming out of the ACE block towards the front of car, from around where it meets the block and collar. Any ideas how to get them off or replaced ? Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
Disco 2 ACE Fault
Replies
7
Views
545
kingy08
K
R
ACE wiring problems ?
Replies
2
Views
477
Rimas
R
U
Discovery 2 ACE light on
Replies
4
Views
584
Unimatrix 01
U
A
Help D3 Suspension
Replies
3
Views
489
Andrew bibby
A
A
SRS warning light Pretensioner problems
Replies
6
Views
220
Anan
A
Back
Top