300 Tdi Rebuild

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

Disco1BFG said:
Well, you know what I did ! - and my reasoning was:-

A new nozzle from a reputable supplier is a new nozzle - same applies to the setup. I'd certainly trust Diesel Bob, and to the extent necessary, I trust LR Center not to sell me a POS. I have never heard of a catastrophic failure of a conventional injector nozzle, (I.E. NOT common rail ) - so I don't believe any proprietary brand is better than any other. Any such failure would be all over the web rather quickly, and the supplier could be held to account quite well, I think.

I did do a search on this and all the documents I saw relate to common rail injector failures - I have attached a report. The conclusion is essentially that poor fuel quality at extreme pressures ( in common rail Injectors ) can cause cavitation, erosion and fatigue cracking.
Since I don't have anything common rail, then I'm not worried.

Cheers, Disco1BFG. That is reassuring information. My first thoughts were to do the same and go LR Centre as they have confirmed OEM parts and set up. And, while I want to do a decent job while I'm on, I might as well save money where I can without major quality sacrifice.

I've just stopped for lunch.
I'd just started taking the pistons out. The rings on No1 were in half

That would probably explain the extra wear on that cylinder. Don't know how that would happen.

I'll post pictures later.

Steviecops · Apr 8, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Thanks to Aaron, I've got the crank pulley bolt off. Came off no bother with the proper tool!

Having a tea break to contemplate taking the belt off. Having learnt from @Saint.V8 and @Disco1BFG about not moving the FIP on the casing. My bottle has gone to just whip the belt off
Will I be setting all the pulleys, crank, cam etc from scratch or do I need to reference anything, stick a bolt through Fip pulley for example?

Diesel Bob came back with a price for the injectors £42 +VAT each = £201.00 inc VAT (that's not with Bosch nozzles, but ones he recommends)
LR Centre came back about the ones they sell at £175.00 inc VAT to say they were original Bosch injectors reconditioned to original spec
What would you do?

While you've got easy access, line the cam pulley up exactly with the pointers and then mark one tooth at the top of the pulley and then a corresponding mark on the timing case. Mines done with tipex and it makes life a lot easier when you come to do the cam belt next time.

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

Steviecops said:
While you've got easy access, line the cam pulley up exactly with the pointers and then mark one tooth at the top of the pulley and then a corresponding mark on the timing case. Mines done with tipex and it makes life a lot easier when you come to do the cam belt next time.

All the pulleys and casing is off now, Stevie.

Steviecops · Apr 8, 2017

Al2O3 said:
All the pulleys and casing is off now, Stevie.

Worth doing when you put it back together on the bench though.

Saint.V8 · Apr 8, 2017

The cam pulley has a mark on it (about the 7-8o'clock pos) and the bolt hole between the FIP pulley and the cam pulley has a pointer on it (pointing up at about the 2o'clock position) ... Line these up, then line the woodruff key on the crank with the arrow on the inside of the timing case (12o'clock pos) there should also be a mark on the crank sprocket too, the put the pin in the FIP pulley to lock that in place. Put the timing pin into the fly wheel housing to hold crank position. And you'll be all timed up.

Then loosen but dont remove the 3 bolts on the FIP pulley and turn it as far clockwise as it will go against the 3 bolts.

When you put the belt on, ensure it is tight going anti-clock from sprocket to idler to cam pulley eound the FIP with the slack of the belt going from FIP to tensioner pulley.

Then when you tension the belt, it will rotate the FIP pulley to its rest position without moving the other settings.

Tighten the 3 bolts, then remove all the locking timing pins and rotate the engine clockwise twice.

Lock the FIP and crank again, Loosen the 3 bolts and the tensioner then retension the belt again. Tighten the 3 bolts and remove the locks and rotate twice again and ensure it all returns to time i.e. crank alighned with case mark, cam pulley with little pointer and FIP pin can slip in the hole.

Job done.

Aslong as you dont move the big nut on the FIP it is all simple to get back into time.

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
The cam pulley has a mark on it and the bolt hole between the FIP pulley and the cam pulley has a pointer on it (about the 7-8o'clock pos) ... Line these up, then line the woodruff key on the crank with the arrow on the inside of the timing case (12o'clock pos) there should also be a mark on the crank sprocket too, the put the pin in the FIP pulley to lock that in place. Put the timing pin into the fly wheel housing to hold crank position. And you'll be all timed up.

Then loosen but dont remove the 3 bolts on the FIP pulley and turn it as far clockwise as it will go against the 3 bolts.

When you put the belt on, ensure it is tight going anti-clock from sprocket to idler to cam pulley eound the FIP with the slack of the belt going from FIP to tensioner pulley.

Then when you tension the belt, it will rotate the FIP pulley to its rest position without moving the other settings.

Tighten the 3 bolts, then remove all the locking timing pins and rotate the engine clockwise twice.

Lock the FIP and crank again, Loosen the 3 bolts and the tensioner then retension the belt again. Tighten the 3 bolts and remove the locks and rotate twice again and ensure it all returns to time i.e. crank alighned with case mark, cam pulley with little pointer and FIP pin can slip in the hole.

Job done.

Aslong as you dont move the big nut on the FIP it is all simple to get back into time.

I will refer back to this when putting it all back together

A few pictures and I can't pull the cam shaft out!
All the cam followers out and the thrust plate off the end. I thought the cam would just pull out after that?

Pistons etc

And every ring on piston number 1 was in half

Should the cam shaft just pull out, or have I mussed taking something off? I don't want to force it.

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

According to Land Rover Toolbox video on Youtube, it should just pull out now. I'll go and try a bit harder.

jamesmartin · Apr 8, 2017

Al2O3 said:
According to Land Rover Toolbox video on Youtube, it should just pull out now. I'll go and try a bit harder.

turn it as you pull it, and as the rear passes out of each journal it will drop and you have to realign the cam for the next journal

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

jamesmartin said:
turn it as you pull it, and as the rear passes out of each journal it will drop and you have to realign the cam for the next journal

Got it JM. A hand in through the side of the block to give it a bit of a wiggle helped.
Bad news is there is a bit of wear on the first bearing.

That narrow parallel band is a raised band, so the bearing surface around it is worn.
It matches up with the oil way in the cam shaft bearing surface.

This looks too far gone to me.

Are the camshaft bearing shells easy to push out and refit?

jamesmartin · Apr 8, 2017

first bearing is usually the worst as it has tension of cam belt pulling on it as well as valve spring pressure, they need a special tool to tap them home usually you fit the rear most first then work forward but 300 has access to the rear of cam gallery so you can work from both ends ensuring they are oriented to align oil holes with oil galleries,tool looks like this i made my own

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

jamesmartin said:
first bearing is usually the worst as it has tension of cam belt pulling on it as well as valve spring pressure, they need a special tool to tap them home usually you fit the rear most first then work forward but 300 has access to the rear of cam gallery so you can work from both ends ensuring they are oriented to align oil holes with oil galleries,tool looks like this i made my own

Yeah, there is a core plug at the back that lines up with the end of the cam shaft.
Well, I can't not change the bearings so I'll look for one of those tools. Do you have a part number James? Google will find it though, I'm sure. Cheers.

Bennehboy · Apr 8, 2017

Watching with interest, I remember doing my TD5, so satisfying when it's done and runs sweet.

jamesmartin · Apr 8, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Yeah, there is a core plug at the back that lines up with the end of the cam shaft.
Well, I can't not change the bearings so I'll look for one of those tools. Do you have a part number James? Google will find it though, I'm sure. Cheers.

front one needs doing but its best to only change the rest if they are showing signs of wear
part numbers are front etc8442 x1 rear 90519055 x3

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

jamesmartin said:
front one needs doing but its best to only change the rest if they are showing signs of wear
part numbers are front etc8442 x1 rear 90519055 x3

I meant that bearing insert tool, James. Despite having eBay on UK only, it's just showing tools from America.

Bennehboy said:
Watching with interest, I remember doing my TD5, so satisfying when it's done and runs sweet.

Damn, that's put some pressure on. Mine'll be like a bag of hammers

jamesmartin · Apr 8, 2017

Al2O3 said:
I meant that bearing insert tool, James. Despite having eBay on UK only, it's just showing tools from America.

Damn, that's put some pressure on. Mine'll be like a bag of hammers

that would be any good they are specific sized for a certain bearing,it was just to give you an idea,not difficult to make for someone with a lathe, you make the spigot bearing fits over smaller so when a piece of inner tube etc is stretched over its a snug fit in the bearing ,you can get universal sets but they are dear

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

Just thinking, the engine reconditioning business I'm taking it to to get re-bored should be able to press new ones in for me!

jamesmartin · Apr 8, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Just thinking, the engine reconditioning business I'm taking it to to get re-bored should be able to press new ones in for me!

should be able to, would be your best bet

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

jamesmartin said:
that would be any good they are specific sized for a certain bearing,it was just to give you an idea,not difficult to make for someone with a lathe, you make the spigot bearing fits over smaller so when a piece of inner tube etc is stretched over its a snug fit in the bearing ,you can get universal sets but they are dear

I can use a lathe, but I don't have one.

Hoping this engine services business will be able to do it. I'll call them first thing Monday morning.

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

jamesmartin said:
should be able to, would be your best bet

Yeah, I reckon so.

Al2O3 · Apr 8, 2017

Thanks for your help again today, James. Much appreciated. I'm off down the pub with the Mrs now to meet some friends and enjoy some real ale. Or, maybe Guinness. Tough choice!

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