300 Tdi Rebuild

raywin said:

Do you have a micrometer to check the journals? See if they are still in tolerance and still round.

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No. I've been looking at digital verniers on ebay. Are the cheap ones any good?

jamesmartin said:

feeler gauge would have done ,you just need at least 2 thou it will have to be std unless its ground

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OK, I've got the donkey's ears on there then. However, it only cost £15.29 Four stars from 14 reviews though!

Verniers are not really good for something like that, they don't have the accuracy, better to get a second hand Moore and wright micrometer, you can find them quite cheap, you can borrow mine if you want.

raywin said:

Verniers are not really good for something like that, they don't have the accuracy, better to get a second hand Moore and wright micrometer, you can find them quite cheap, you can borrow mine if you want.

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+1 I've got a set with interchangeable handles on order, not as good as a dedicated set, but being able to switch out the barrel is a better option cash wise for me.

raywin said:

Verniers are not really good for something like that, they don't have the accuracy, better to get a second hand Moore and wright micrometer, you can find them quite cheap, you can borrow mine if you want.

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Cheers, raywin, that's very kind. I'll go back on ebay, because that name rings a bell. I've just seen some of those, I'm sure.

Bennehboy said:

+1 I've got a set with interchangeable handles on order, not as good as a dedicated set, but being able to switch out the barrel is a better option cash wise for me.

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They are pretty good but you need the distance pice to set them up correctly before you measure anything.

Al2O3 said:

Cheers, raywin, that's very kind. I'll go back on ebay, because that name rings a bell. I've just seen some of those, I'm sure.

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If you are going to buy second hand, then see if you can find somewhere to check it. Ask your machine shop if you can go back and borrow their slip gauges to check the micrometer at set points on the run. I would not rely on a 2nd hand unit being correct and not having been abused at any point.

Cheers

Aye, but won't be an every day use so I can live with it, what I can't live with is the ****ty Chinese digital caliper that I have

You can find some like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moore-and...458063?hash=item2a7f2fafcf:g:oUMAAOSwuLZY6VEJ
They are pretty well made and they can be tightened up on the threads if needed then set to zero, you will probably find unless it's had some serious abuse it will still be pretty accurate.

raywin said:

You can find some like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moore-and...458063?hash=item2a7f2fafcf:g:oUMAAOSwuLZY6VEJ
They are pretty well made and they can be tightened up on the threads if needed then set to zero, you will probably find unless it's had some serious abuse it will still be pretty accurate.

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That is a nice set, even comes with the setting bars to check it. Must say one of my pet peeves is people who call a digital caliper a vernier caliper........ Even have trained people calling them it nowadays.

Cheers

raywin said:

You can find some like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moore-and...458063?hash=item2a7f2fafcf:g:oUMAAOSwuLZY6VEJ
They are pretty well made and they can be tightened up on the threads if needed then set to zero, you will probably find unless it's had some serious abuse it will still be pretty accurate.

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The ones I saw were single 0-25 ones. How much would you expect that to go for?
I take it Moore and Wright are the ones to have. What about cheap ones like this. I know you get what you pay for, but I will not be using them very often.

Al2O3 said:

The ones I saw were single 0-25 ones. How much would you expect that to go for?
I take it Moore and Wright are the ones to have. What about cheap ones like this. I know you get what you pay for, but I will not be using them very often.

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if you want to measure the crank journals you need a 2-3 inch or 25-50mm

Sorry, forgot the link. Here it is LINKY

jamesmartin said:

if you want to measure the crank journals you need a 2-3 inch or 25-50mm

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In your experience, James. How often have they worn to a situation where they need to be re-ground?

you can tell by looking , 1 the state of the shell bearings 2 the crank journal itself if its ridged /scored or smooth

jamesmartin said:

you can tell by looking , 1 the state of the shell bearings 2 the crank journal itself if its ridged /scored or smooth

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That sounds like you can only tell with experience! If the journal isn't ridged/scored is it not then smooth? What signs on the shells?

Al2O3 said:

That sounds like you can only tell with experience! If the journal isn't ridged/scored is it not then smooth? What signs on the shells?

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Maybe , you could take a few really good hi res photos and post them up, may help others give a few pointers.

Cheers

Al2O3 said:

That sounds like you can only tell with experience! If the journal isn't ridged/scored is it not then smooth? What signs on the shells?

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smooth is good with no wear signs same with shells,have you any pics

neilly said:

Maybe , you could take a few really good hi res photos and post them up, may help others give a few pointers.

Cheers

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jamesmartin said:

smooth is good with no wear signs same with shells,have you any pics

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No pictures specifically yet, but I'll take some tomorrow in good natural light. Probably not work well with the flash tonight.

Al2O3 said:

Sorry, forgot the link. Here it is LINKY

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Quite honestly I don't want to run them down when I haven't even held them, but in my experience the M and W ones would be a better investment if you bought them at the same price, I have used cheap ones and they were prety poor I have a set I had given but they are prety low quality and I use the old favorites