300 Tdi Rebuild

Al2O3 · Apr 9, 2017

Not done a lot on it today. Spent a few hours scrubbing the block with Gunk and a tooth brush

Scraped some very stubborn gasket off anorl.

It's now sat in the back of the Mondeo with the head. Hopefully get it to the machine shop in the morning.

Saint.V8 · Apr 9, 2017

Looking good my man......can't wait for it all to be back from the shop and you can start the rebuild....watching with anticipation mate - Ant.

Disco1BFG · Apr 9, 2017

As above, looks great - nice and clean for the machine shop to fill with grinding dust !!

Are you going to paint it ?

Al2O3 · Apr 9, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
Looking good my man......can't wait for it all to be back from the shop and you can start the rebuild....watching with anticipation mate - Ant.

Must admit I'm looking forward to the rebuild starting.

It should run and pull a lot better than it was, especially now it doesn't have snapped rings in one cylinder. Ever seen that before?

Disco1BFG said:
As above, looks great - nice and clean for the machine shop to fill with grinding dust !!

Are you going to paint it ?

Yes, I'm going to paint it. I've sent off for some aluminium polish too, so I can get other bits shiny.

Don't know what colour to paint the block? Gloss black? Red?
I'm hoping machine shop will have degreasing bath or something, otherwise it will take a lot more elbow grease to get it clean enough to take paint.

Bennehboy · Apr 9, 2017

Wire brush on a drill works wonders.

Al2O3 · Apr 9, 2017

Bennehboy said:
Wire brush on a drill works wonders.

Yeah, did plenty of that on the axles.

It's making sure the oil is all off is the issue. I think I'm settling on red like in your avatar picture.

Disco1BFG · Apr 9, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Don't know what colour to paint the block? Gloss black? Red?

IMO, it'd look good in red - would "match" the vehicle then...

Al2O3 · Apr 9, 2017

Disco1BFG said:
IMO, it'd look good in red - would "match" the vehicle then...

Yes, I think I'm sold on red. With gloss black I thought I'd not be able to see future oil leaks

Bennehboy · Apr 10, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Yeah, did plenty of that on the axles. It's making sure the oil is all off is the issue. I think I'm settling on red like in your avatar picture.

I put a big cat litter tray under my engine stand and scrubbed mine down with paraffin, very effective at grease/oil removal, and a lot cheaper than gunk....

Al2O3 · Apr 10, 2017

Bennehboy said:
I put a big cat litter tray under my engine stand and scrubbed mine down with paraffin, very effective at grease/oil removal, and a lot cheaper than gunk....

Excellent idea. I bought a couple of large trays from Wilko's yesterday, £3.50 each. I've just dropped the block off for a re-bore and the head for a light skim, this morning. I asked about de-greasing them for me, but he said they go through the hot wash anyway after the machining.

The piston rings snapping is still a puzzle, but it explains why the engine was pushing oil out and why it had a run away!

The machine shop can't push the cam shaft bearings out.

I'll have to contact the nearest LR independent.

Al2O3 · Apr 10, 2017

LR Indi can't push the camshaft bearings out either!

I'm looking a bit stuffed

Started cleaning some bit. Believe it or not these pictures are after cleaning.

Initial cleaning anyway! Got some new wire wheels coming and some aluminium polish has arrived today.
How can I clean the FIP?
Can I set about it with a tooth brush and gunk? Then with aluminium cleaner and a tooth brush?

jamesmartin · Apr 10, 2017

jesus its not hard to knock old cam bearings out especially if you have a cam bearing tool

Al2O3 · Apr 10, 2017

jamesmartin said:
jesus its not hard to knock old cam bearings out especially if you have a cam bearing tool

I was a bit taken a back when they said they couldn't do it. It's a machine shop for heavens sake! Local independent had nothing to do it with either.
I'll have to try and improvise something.

neilly · Apr 10, 2017

Al2O3 said:
I was a bit taken a back when they said they couldn't do it. It's a machine shop for heavens sake! Local independent had nothing to do it with either.
I'll have to try and improvise something.

Summin like this?

Cheers

Al2O3 · Apr 10, 2017

neilly said:
Summin like this?

Cheers

Ha, ha, yes. I've watched that video and a few others.
I'm hitting a few issues, like checking the thrust washers. I've just bought a cheap DTI off eBay.

I'm thinking I might as well replace the oil pump rotor. Any surprises waiting for me in changing that?

Al2O3 · Apr 10, 2017

Here's another quandary. If the crank hasn't been reground, will standard bearings be ok? Or, will I have to use plastigauge to measure for the correct ones?

jamesmartin · Apr 10, 2017

if it hasnt been ground you use std shells ,it might be worth getting it polished

Al2O3 · Apr 10, 2017

jamesmartin said:
if it hasnt been ground you use std shells ,it might be worth getting it polished

That's music to my ears, James. Phew!

I've bought a DTI to test end float of crank. However, same question as per bearings. If the crank hasn't been machined will standard thrust washers be the ones to get?

raywin · Apr 10, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Here's another quandary. If the crank hasn't been reground, will standard bearings be ok? Or, will I have to use plastigauge to measure for the correct ones?

Do you have a micrometer to check the journals? See if they are still in tolerance and still round.

jamesmartin · Apr 10, 2017

Al2O3 said:
That's music to my ears, James. Phew!
I've bought a DTI to test end float of crank. However, same question as per bearings. If the crank hasn't been machined will standard thrust washers be the ones to get?

feeler gauge would have done ,you just need at least 2 thou it will have to be std unless its ground

300 Tdi Rebuild

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