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On earlier Wabco-C, the live data only works at slow speeds. I think the limit is 5mph, but it could be 5kph ? Not got one, but I heard Wabco-D gives live data at higher speeds.
2.5 ton paperweight??
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Datatek
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5mph 8kmh
modelman
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OK boys & girls, not managed to do much lately as the quite large garden I have was great 40 years ago, but a big PITA nowadays as I approach 80, so guess where my attention has been this last couple of weeks!!
However, I have noticed a couple of observations since fitting the 'new' fuse box.
I get in the car, it starts instantly, then sometimes whilst running, all the doors lock, then a second later, they unlock!!
I unlock the car, but the boot button doesn't work at all, lock then unlock again & it does!!??
The push button has been stripped & is like new.
I completely rebuilt the compressor & valve block, & either the front right or other times both front suspension
would lower within a day or so, now with the new fuse box, it stays up all the time!!??
I HAVE found a leak, I inserted a pressure gauge in the main output from the valve block to the tank, 10 - 12 min to
about 145psi or so, the car goes up & down very quick, but then overnight the gauge drops to zero.
I have not as yet investigated further, am I right in thinking that this airline runs straight to the air tank?
Next job is to spray soap solution around the tank fittings, if no leak found I'll try & run a temp air line & see what happens.
Any thoughts?
However, I have noticed a couple of observations since fitting the 'new' fuse box.
I get in the car, it starts instantly, then sometimes whilst running, all the doors lock, then a second later, they unlock!!
I unlock the car, but the boot button doesn't work at all, lock then unlock again & it does!!??
The push button has been stripped & is like new.
I completely rebuilt the compressor & valve block, & either the front right or other times both front suspension
would lower within a day or so, now with the new fuse box, it stays up all the time!!??
I HAVE found a leak, I inserted a pressure gauge in the main output from the valve block to the tank, 10 - 12 min to
about 145psi or so, the car goes up & down very quick, but then overnight the gauge drops to zero.
I have not as yet investigated further, am I right in thinking that this airline runs straight to the air tank?
Next job is to spray soap solution around the tank fittings, if no leak found I'll try & run a temp air line & see what happens.
Any thoughts?
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Doors locking & unlocking is probably latch microswitch issues. Same applies for boot button not working as it needs drivers door latch working.
Block to tank leak is more likely the gauge or fittings !! Tank air leak is usually NRV-1 not seating properly, but could also be the seal on either end of the airline. To leak elsewhere within the block requires both Inlet & Exhaust to be leaky at the same time.
Block to tank leak is more likely the gauge or fittings !! Tank air leak is usually NRV-1 not seating properly, but could also be the seal on either end of the airline. To leak elsewhere within the block requires both Inlet & Exhaust to be leaky at the same time.
Datatek
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Also rust pin holes in the tank are possible.
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+1 on the door latches. Had the same on mine, replaced door latch/actuator and problem solved. I do believe the MGF had the same door latch and far cheaper than the same one from JLR
modelman
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It had to happen I suppose, playing with Nanocom just now, I think I f****d up bigtime.
Whilst in the EDC mode, checking the fuel modulation at operating temp I had a reading of 86%, engine running, not a million miles out I believe.
So, ah, whats this? Timing solenoid, whats that do then? pressed it & the engine revs went up, oooh, dont like that, press it again to go back, no difference! OK, ill press this, ELAB valve, engine stopped dead, pressed again, but no, no way could I go back to the beginning. Went back through all the menus to start again, but now it wont communicate with the engine ECU or the BECM!!
Have I finally managed to have my 2.5 ton paperweight after all????
Whilst in the EDC mode, checking the fuel modulation at operating temp I had a reading of 86%, engine running, not a million miles out I believe.
So, ah, whats this? Timing solenoid, whats that do then? pressed it & the engine revs went up, oooh, dont like that, press it again to go back, no difference! OK, ill press this, ELAB valve, engine stopped dead, pressed again, but no, no way could I go back to the beginning. Went back through all the menus to start again, but now it wont communicate with the engine ECU or the BECM!!
Have I finally managed to have my 2.5 ton paperweight after all????
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I don't know the EDC, but Nanocom guide shows this. Have you tried switching off car & disconnecting Nanocom. Then reconnect & try engine BUT do not use those triggers !!
You might also want to try reading the pump calibration setting & post the numbers here for the EDC experts. Do not write settings unless you're sure.
You might also want to try reading the pump calibration setting & post the numbers here for the EDC experts. Do not write settings unless you're sure.
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The instructions appear quite clear.. you mess with the timing solenoid when the engine is running and the revs alter.. figures i guess.
Fuel shut off does what it says for 30s..
As said disconnect it. Engine off.. wait for it to go to sleep.. ignition on.. press running solenoid and let it do it's thing. Exit nanocom. Engine off.
Engine should start as before
Fuel shut off does what it says for 30s..
As said disconnect it. Engine off.. wait for it to go to sleep.. ignition on.. press running solenoid and let it do it's thing. Exit nanocom. Engine off.
Engine should start as before
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And stop faffing with your sh#t dude
Flossie
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86% is miles out, should be as close to 50% as you can get it. She will start instant cold and HOT, I bet hot starts are troublesome?
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In case it helps here's the Nanocom EDC guide. All the guides are downloadable from the BBS website.
modelman
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Many thanks fellas, Happy bunny again, went out & it started instantly!! PHEW!
Re the 86% reading, of course I was wrong, I mistakenly thought it should be 90% NOT the 86% I was getting, so yes,
miles out, next job it try & achieve 50%.
My pump calibration is exactly as in the pic above, so at least something seems right.
Re the 86% reading, of course I was wrong, I mistakenly thought it should be 90% NOT the 86% I was getting, so yes,
miles out, next job it try & achieve 50%.
My pump calibration is exactly as in the pic above, so at least something seems right.
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Datatek
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NEVER play with settings unless you understand them
Datatek
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Not all cars have exactly those numbers but a good place to start if things have been played with.
Datatek
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95C for 50% modulation.
modelman
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I agree with "never play with settings" etc. But on most settings on Nanocom, there is the option of going no further unless
you understand, OR, on many you are given the option of switching off something you just switched on!
In this case, it just stopped! I didn't realise that turning off the ign, waiting then turning back on was all that was required.
I really thought i'd screwed up big time.
Also correct re hot starting, it was a cow, drained battery, had to jump with another, noticed that the glow coil light did NOT illuminate either, BUT, when I switched the toggle-switch (prev owner fitted) it lit & engine eventually fired up.
These switch wires go under the inlet manifold to one of the sensors in the head, not sure which though as I cant quite see
until I get around to removing the manifold, i'll do so soon as I need to do the pump mod Datatek kindly sent.
Spent last week repainting the car in the back garden!!
you understand, OR, on many you are given the option of switching off something you just switched on!
In this case, it just stopped! I didn't realise that turning off the ign, waiting then turning back on was all that was required.
I really thought i'd screwed up big time.
Also correct re hot starting, it was a cow, drained battery, had to jump with another, noticed that the glow coil light did NOT illuminate either, BUT, when I switched the toggle-switch (prev owner fitted) it lit & engine eventually fired up.
These switch wires go under the inlet manifold to one of the sensors in the head, not sure which though as I cant quite see
until I get around to removing the manifold, i'll do so soon as I need to do the pump mod Datatek kindly sent.
Spent last week repainting the car in the back garden!!
Flossie
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12mm cranked deep ring spanner makes the fip nuts a doddle to loosen/tighten. I had to take the viscous fan off on mine to get the engine temperature up on a freezing cold day. Driving it wasn't an option, no mot, tax or insurance.
Datatek
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The wires will go to the EDC temperature sensor to fool the EDC into using cold start settings.
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