2.5 ton paperweight??

Also, whilst manifold is off, I found this mystery pipe, it looks like its broke off from something, there's a metal pipe
from a circular casing on front of the rocker-box, it sweeps around under the manifold, to a short length of rubber hose,
then this very small hose come from it, doubles back on itself then stops more or less under the the middle of the manifold.
There ARE a couple of small pipes coming from underneath, but I've accounted for them.

I don't know diesel well but i understand modulation on the 2.5 should be 50% +/-5%

Filter looking thing mounted on the rh bulkhead. Should have 2 pipes going to it if you have egr. I think, from memory, that pipe goes to the filter looking thing, another pipe, from the egr valve, goes to that thing as well. Egr won't open without those pipes but that a good thing.
Another pipe goes from the fuel filter to underneath the inlet manifold, you need that one. All pipes are 3.2mm inside diameter, same as the leak off pipes.

All back together, fired up instantly, & before, if I blipped the throttle/ revved it up, there was a bit of smoke, now however, no smoke at all!! So SOMETHING has changed, According to scribe mark I put on the FIP, its move about 7mm.
Does re-timing the pump modulation do away with hot start problems??
Many thanks to DATATEK for modulation info.

modelman said:

All back together, fired up instantly, & before, if I blipped the throttle/ revved it up, there was a bit of smoke, now however, no smoke at all!! So SOMETHING has changed, According to scribe mark I put on the FIP, its move about 7mm.
Does re-timing the pump modulation do away with hot start problems??
Many thanks to DATATEK for modulation info.

Click to expand...

Yes.

modelman said:

Just managed to 'do' the Datatek fuel-modulation fix, got it to measure between 49.2 & 50.4, ticking over, warm, is that acceptable?
Also, whilst the manifold is off, I can see that the dash-switch mod ( presumably a hot-start fix ) goes to the foremost of the 2 temp senders in the head, so now the fuel modulation is correct ( I hope ) is it ok to remove the wiring mod & set it back to original??

Click to expand...

At what temperature did you take the modulation reading? If the temperature was around 95C, then the reading is good. Modulation varies a lot with engine temperature.

modelman said:

Also, whilst manifold is off, I found this mystery pipe, it looks like its broke off from something, there's a metal pipe
from a circular casing on front of the rocker-box, it sweeps around under the manifold, to a short length of rubber hose,
then this very small hose come from it, doubles back on itself then stops more or less under the the middle of the manifold.
There ARE a couple of small pipes coming from underneath, but I've accounted for them.

Click to expand...

It sounds like the pipe from the vacuum pump that should go to the EGR control valve on the bulkhead EAS box side

Datatek said:

It sounds like the pipe from the vacuum pump that should go to the EGR control valve on the bulkhead EAS box side

Click to expand...

This ere thingy
Mines blanked off as I had an engine change for a pre egr one some years back

Rubberknees said:

This ere thingy
Mines blanked off as I had an engine change for a pre egr one some years back

Click to expand...

Yes, that's it

Just received a few mtrs of 3mm rubber hose, replaced everywhere I could, fired her up, instant start, but to be honest,
its no different to me, there's no trace of smoke, even when its revved up, so I'm happy with that.
Re-checked modulation again, at 96c its fluctuating between 50-52% now, I thing ill leave well alone now!
Got a new track rod arm ready for replacement, R/side ball joint has very slight movement.
I now find that the R/side window does not work from the centre switch pack, BUT, it does from the door
AND Nanocom ???

Switch in the switch pack I think.
It was that issue when my sunroof wouldn't work but would off the nano. I had the opposite too with my rear window, worked off the switch pack but not at the door, that was the door switch.
There's a how to out there somewhere on how to strip the switch pack down and clean the contacts, quite easy, I've done two.