2.5 ton paperweight??

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Also, whilst manifold is off, I found this mystery pipe, it looks like its broke off from something, there's a metal pipe
from a circular casing on front of the rocker-box, it sweeps around under the manifold, to a short length of rubber hose,
then this very small hose come from it, doubles back on itself then stops more or less under the the middle of the manifold.
There ARE a couple of small pipes coming from underneath, but I've accounted for them.
 

Attachments

  • Mystery-0pipe.jpg
    Mystery-0pipe.jpg
    221.4 KB · Views: 41
Filter looking thing mounted on the rh bulkhead. Should have 2 pipes going to it if you have egr. I think, from memory, that pipe goes to the filter looking thing, another pipe, from the egr valve, goes to that thing as well. Egr won't open without those pipes but that a good thing.
Another pipe goes from the fuel filter to underneath the inlet manifold, you need that one. All pipes are 3.2mm inside diameter, same as the leak off pipes.
 
All back together, fired up instantly, & before, if I blipped the throttle/ revved it up, there was a bit of smoke, now however, no smoke at all!! So SOMETHING has changed, According to scribe mark I put on the FIP, its move about 7mm.
Does re-timing the pump modulation do away with hot start problems??
Many thanks to DATATEK for modulation info.
 
modelman said:
All back together, fired up instantly, & before, if I blipped the throttle/ revved it up, there was a bit of smoke, now however, no smoke at all!! So SOMETHING has changed, According to scribe mark I put on the FIP, its move about 7mm.
Does re-timing the pump modulation do away with hot start problems??
Many thanks to DATATEK for modulation info.
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
modelman said:
Just managed to 'do' the Datatek fuel-modulation fix, got it to measure between 49.2 & 50.4, ticking over, warm, is that acceptable?
Also, whilst the manifold is off, I can see that the dash-switch mod ( presumably a hot-start fix ) goes to the foremost of the 2 temp senders in the head, so now the fuel modulation is correct ( I hope ) is it ok to remove the wiring mod & set it back to original??
Click to expand...
At what temperature did you take the modulation reading? If the temperature was around 95C, then the reading is good. Modulation varies a lot with engine temperature.
 
modelman said:
Also, whilst manifold is off, I found this mystery pipe, it looks like its broke off from something, there's a metal pipe
from a circular casing on front of the rocker-box, it sweeps around under the manifold, to a short length of rubber hose,
then this very small hose come from it, doubles back on itself then stops more or less under the the middle of the manifold.
There ARE a couple of small pipes coming from underneath, but I've accounted for them.
Click to expand...
It sounds like the pipe from the vacuum pump that should go to the EGR control valve on the bulkhead EAS box side
 
Datatek said:
It sounds like the pipe from the vacuum pump that should go to the EGR control valve on the bulkhead EAS box side
Click to expand...
This ere thingy
Mines blanked off as I had an engine change for a pre egr one some years back
 

Attachments

  • 20210708_122506.jpg
    20210708_122506.jpg
    278.1 KB · Views: 33
Just received a few mtrs of 3mm rubber hose, replaced everywhere I could, fired her up, instant start, but to be honest,
its no different to me, there's no trace of smoke, even when its revved up, so I'm happy with that.
Re-checked modulation again, at 96c its fluctuating between 50-52% now, I thing ill leave well alone now!
Got a new track rod arm ready for replacement, R/side ball joint has very slight movement.
I now find that the R/side window does not work from the centre switch pack, BUT, it does from the door
AND Nanocom ???
 
Switch in the switch pack I think.
It was that issue when my sunroof wouldn't work but would off the nano. I had the opposite too with my rear window, worked off the switch pack but not at the door, that was the door switch.
There's a how to out there somewhere on how to strip the switch pack down and clean the contacts, quite easy, I've done two.
 
modelman said:
Just received a few mtrs of 3mm rubber hose, replaced everywhere I could, fired her up, instant start, but to be honest,
its no different to me, there's no trace of smoke, even when its revved up, so I'm happy with that.
Re-checked modulation again, at 96c its fluctuating between 50-52% now, I thing ill leave well alone now!
Got a new track rod arm ready for replacement, R/side ball joint has very slight movement.
I now find that the R/side window does not work from the centre switch pack, BUT, it does from the door
AND Nanocom ???
Click to expand...
Modulation sounds spot on. :)
 
Rebuilt compressor & valve block fills tank to 145psi from empty in about 12-15 mins.
I fitted a ball-valve on the main out from the valve block, then a gauge, then another ball-valve.
Once pressurised, the car goes from access to high in about 5-6 seconds & stays up for at least a week, BUT,
the pressure drops to zero overnight. If I shut one valve so the pressure reads only the tank, it still goes down, if I shut the other valve to read only the valve-block, it still goes down!!!??? The car is still up fine.
I've 'soaped' everywhere but could see no leaks.
I'm thinking of running another 6mm air tube from the valve-block to the tank, but from what I can see, it appears to be
fitted BETWEEN the chassis & the body, ( laying on top chassis member ) is it possible to replace in the original position or should I try & route it as best I can?
 
modelman said:
Rebuilt compressor & valve block fills tank to 145psi from empty in about 12-15 mins.
I fitted a ball-valve on the main out from the valve block, then a gauge, then another ball-valve.
Once pressurised, the car goes from access to high in about 5-6 seconds & stays up for at least a week, BUT,
the pressure drops to zero overnight. If I shut one valve so the pressure reads only the tank, it still goes down, if I shut the other valve to read only the valve-block, it still goes down!!!??? The car is still up fine.
I've 'soaped' everywhere but could see no leaks.
I'm thinking of running another 6mm air tube from the valve-block to the tank, but from what I can see, it appears to be
fitted BETWEEN the chassis & the body, ( laying on top chassis member ) is it possible to replace in the original position or should I try & route it as best I can?
Click to expand...
Possible but not easy to replace in the original position, if you can find an easier route, use it.
 
Re. Calibrating the modulation with the pump. What you're doing is adjusting for the slack in the timing chain? At some point it must be prudent to replace the chain and stop turning the pump?
 
kermit_rr said:
Re. Calibrating the modulation with the pump. What you're doing is adjusting for the slack in the timing chain? At some point it must be prudent to replace the chain and stop turning the pump?
Click to expand...

Yes. Apart from anything else the teeth on the sprockets wear down. Wammers said he saw one around 100k miles that jumped a tooth from worn sprockets.

That said, mine's closer to double that and they didn't look bad to me last time I had it apart. There's a limit to how far you can turn the pump to the engine, of course. It doesn't seem to be necessary though. Mine's over 170k miles but I put a refurbed FIP on around 120k miles. I use Beru glows and a Platinum battery that has been on about ten years now. All set to factory spec including the shim when setting the cam up. Fires almost immediately every single time. On that basis I think turning the pump further is hiding something not setup right, probably the pump or cam has not been set for the higher mileage setting or the FIP is tired or glows are not as effective or leak-off pipe is leaking and letting air into the system.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yes. Apart from anything else the teeth on the sprockets wear down. Wammers said he saw one around 100k miles that jumped a tooth from worn sprockets.

That said, mine's closer to double that and they didn't look bad to me last time I had it apart. There's a limit to how far you can turn the pump to the engine, of course. It doesn't seem to be necessary though. Mine's over 170k miles but I put a refurbed FIP on around 120k miles. I use Beru glows and a Platinum battery that has been on about ten years now. All set to factory spec including the shim when setting the cam up. Fires almost immediately every single time. On that basis I think turning the pump further is hiding something not setup right, probably the pump or cam has not been set for the higher mileage setting or the FIP is tired or glows are not as effective or leak-off pipe is leaking and letting air into the system.
Click to expand...
Is this the correct part number for the Beru glow plugs 0100221163. Got it on a piece of paper but not sure. Ta
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DollyBird
Engine disabled, keys not working, tried the guide “Re-synching the Range Rover P38 diesel engine with the Solved - BECM using a Nanocom” no luck
Replies
9
Views
958
DollyBird
DollyBird
I
P38 BeCM locked?
Replies
8
Views
635
pwood999
pwood999
Maat
P38A Door lock not working
Replies
3
Views
732
Maat
Maat
gold rover
L322 Barrel lock failure
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
dogsbody
P38 no crank
Replies
13
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top