2.5 ton paperweight??

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modelman said:
Bit the bullet & sent off BeCM with key to 'Rick the pick at Callrova in Brighton, it'll be interesting to see what develops??
Click to expand...

He'll certainly fix any issues if there are any to be found. He has a test bench to test everything works as it should plus the software to program just about anything.
 
Got the BeCM back today, apparently the internal data was corrupted, no physical damage, all software related,
& was corrected.
Great! At last I had great expectations, all refitted & connected back up, Ahh, everything exactly as before :(
Well at least I know its NOT the BeCM!!
Had a long chat with Rick & he suggested I look at the multi connector under the coolant header tank, I did so
( I didn't even know there was one or it was there ) but it looked all dry, shiney & like new, drenched it with contact cleaner anyway.
I asked Rick if he knew of any other P38 related suicides !:rolleyes:
 
modelman said:
Got the BeCM back today, apparently the internal data was corrupted, no physical damage, all software related,
& was corrected.
Great! At last I had great expectations, all refitted & connected back up, Ahh, everything exactly as before :(
Well at least I know its NOT the BeCM!!
Had a long chat with Rick & he suggested I look at the multi connector under the coolant header tank, I did so
( I didn't even know there was one or it was there ) but it looked all dry, shiney & like new, drenched it with contact cleaner anyway.
I asked Rick if he knew of any other P38 related suicides !:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Remind me, have you checked the fuse box?
 
One of the first things I did when I got it, pulled it apart, looked new, cut all the bus-bars along the edges, opened it up, again all like new, folded it back together, re-soldered all those connecting bars.
Actually, if you could se it, you'd think it was new!
This is DEFINITLEY an historic fundamental problem, going back the last 3 years it was on the road, cant help feeling its something really simple, just trying to fathom what can cause 3 faults & failure to communicate AND display on the dash?:confused:
 
modelman said:
One of the first things I did when I got it, pulled it apart, looked new, cut all the bus-bars along the edges, opened it up, again all like new, folded it back together, re-soldered all those connecting bars.
Actually, if you could se it, you'd think it was new!
This is DEFINITLEY an historic fundamental problem, going back the last 3 years it was on the road, cant help feeling its something really simple, just trying to fathom what can cause 3 faults & failure to communicate AND display on the dash?:confused:
Click to expand...
The fuse box may look like new to the naked eye, but cracked solder joints can sometimes only be seen with the aid of a magnifying glass/ Likewise the blade receptacles can become slack over time.
 
Well dear friends, here I am back again after several re-visits to hospital, docs etc ( all due to covid ).
Anyroadup, I HAVE managed to spend a few hours now & again messing with the paperweight.
ALL the plugs & sockets in footwells have been cut/soldered & heatshrinked. NO DIFFERENCE!!
The ONLY thing I never swapped out was..........the fusebox.
My local P38 breaker only had V8 units, but I sourced one from a guy in Wales, when it arrived it looked like new,
a couple of minutes & it was fitted, started the engine, SRS light still on, Nanocom out, hooked up,
WAYHEY, it finally "found" the SRS !!
"Driver seat airbag ", cleared the fault, light out!! SORTED.
So dear Mr Datatek, of course you were correct, I DID take your advice & "checked" but obviously
not enough, so I publicly apologise, thank you.
One of many problems out of the way, but still have a few more to go.
 
modelman said:
Well dear friends, here I am back again after several re-visits to hospital, docs etc ( all due to covid ).
Anyroadup, I HAVE managed to spend a few hours now & again messing with the paperweight.
ALL the plugs & sockets in footwells have been cut/soldered & heatshrinked. NO DIFFERENCE!!
The ONLY thing I never swapped out was..........the fusebox.
My local P38 breaker only had V8 units, but I sourced one from a guy in Wales, when it arrived it looked like new,
a couple of minutes & it was fitted, started the engine, SRS light still on, Nanocom out, hooked up,
WAYHEY, it finally "found" the SRS !!
"Driver seat airbag ", cleared the fault, light out!! SORTED.
So dear Mr Datatek, of course you were correct, I DID take your advice & "checked" but obviously
not enough, so I publicly apologise, thank you.
One of many problems out of the way, but still have a few more to go.
Click to expand...
No apology needed but thanks all the same, just pleased it is no longer a paperweight:)
Was it Covid or the vaccine that caused you problems? Hope you are soon back to full fitness.
 
It was covid itself, & I caught it in HOSPITAL when I visited my now departed wife, I ended up in hospital for a month, I was the oldest on the ward & only myself & another fella survived out of 8, it screwed my immune system & consequently I cop for everything & anything going! But Im still here!!
Next question, I had to take a chance & run the car round the drive where I live, its probably 1/4 mile-ish kidney/ oval, couldn't go very fast, but it seemed to change a gear or two, & seemed ok.
Tried a second time a bit later & it started to struggle & slow up, then it ground to a halt, panic set in as I was stuck across the road entering my driveway. It was rock solid, whacked it into low range 1st & gunned it, very difficult, but I somehow hauled it back, phew!!
Grinding/growling noises from the wheels, I thought id screwed up with the viscous coupling or something else gearbox related.
Put 4 axle stands under & all 4 wheels where solid, coffee time, 10min later, looked again, free as a bird!! Turned 1 wheel & the other 3 rotated easily as well.
Hooked up Nanocom & no faults found with braking system or ABS.
Did a modulator test on each wheel, it set off "clicking" & every "click" locked/unlocked the wheel as I tried to move it.
I'm pretty sure the lockups where the brakes locking on as I drove it, what can cause this???
Brake pedal feels normal/hard, razor sharp stopping, reservoir full, no leaks etc.
 
modelman said:
It was covid itself, & I caught it in HOSPITAL when I visited my now departed wife, I ended up in hospital for a month, I was the oldest on the ward & only myself & another fella survived out of 8, it screwed my immune system & consequently I cop for everything & anything going! But Im still here!!
Next question, I had to take a chance & run the car round the drive where I live, its probably 1/4 mile-ish kidney/ oval, couldn't go very fast, but it seemed to change a gear or two, & seemed ok.
Tried a second time a bit later & it started to struggle & slow up, then it ground to a halt, panic set in as I was stuck across the road entering my driveway. It was rock solid, whacked it into low range 1st & gunned it, very difficult, but I somehow hauled it back, phew!!
Grinding/growling noises from the wheels, I thought id screwed up with the viscous coupling or something else gearbox related.
Put 4 axle stands under & all 4 wheels where solid, coffee time, 10min later, looked again, free as a bird!! Turned 1 wheel & the other 3 rotated easily as well.
Hooked up Nanocom & no faults found with braking system or ABS.
Did a modulator test on each wheel, it set off "clicking" & every "click" locked/unlocked the wheel as I tried to move it.
I'm pretty sure the lockups where the brakes locking on as I drove it, what can cause this???
Brake pedal feels normal/hard, razor sharp stopping, reservoir full, no leaks etc.
Click to expand...
When you say all 4 wheels were solid, was the normal back lash present at the wheels? Hand brake drum binding? If it's the ABS, check for corrosion on the connector.
Covid hit you hard, hope you make a full recovery.
 
It does sound like the brakes binding on but I cannot believe all 4 calipers are binding.

I assume there was no clicking from the dash and the traction control light didn't light up? Thinking dodgy brake switch triggering the brakes.

Only other thing I can think of is the brake itself sticking down from the washers inside the modulator binding but usually it is the other way around and you have no brakes.
 
Grrrrrr said:
It does sound like the brakes binding on but I cannot believe all 4 calipers are binding.

I assume there was no clicking from the dash and the traction control light didn't light up? Thinking dodgy brake switch triggering the brakes.

Only other thing I can think of is the brake itself sticking down from the washers inside the modulator binding but usually it is the other way around and you have no brakes.
Click to expand...
If 4 wheel ABS is fitted, it's possible for all 4 wheels to be locked in a fault situation.
 
Datatek said:
If 4 wheel ABS is fitted, it's possible for all 4 wheels to be locked in a fault situation.
Click to expand...

Yes, although I would expect a light on the dash.

If it is the later car that's good news as it was the pre-98 models that had the dodgy washers in the modulator although the 4W TC ECU is less reliable.
 
Datatek said:
When you say all 4 wheels were solid, was the normal back lash present at the wheels? Hand brake drum binding? If it's the ABS, check for corrosion on the connector.
Covid hit you hard, hope you make a full recovery.
Click to expand...
All four wheels solid, then 5-10 min later, all four wheels seemed normal with usual backlash, when I turned one wheel, the other three turned, completely normal. It seems that driving somehow sets off the brakes, no ABS or traction lights.
When I did eventually get the car running ( when it was trailered to me, nothing worked ) the message centre said
Traction failure, ABS failure Airbag failure SRS light on but Nanocom cleared everything & the message centre is clear now.
My drive is long enough that I can gun it to a good speed & jamming on the brakes stops it dead, BUT, the pulsating ( ABS ) pedal does NOT happen, but again, Nano states everything OK.???
Handbrake free, normal & works perfect.
 
Just hooked up diagnostics again for engine, this is the screen, engine running, can someone explain the meanings please?
On starting, the engine is running as soon as I turn the key, is runs lovely & smooth & throttles nice, it smokes a little though.
 

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