P38A 2.5 Diesel Cylinder Head

Lukas018 said:

Right ok thanks @wammers will have a go tomorrow.

Just one thing want to make sure I got right, if the key way on the pump is vertical is this null position so when you offer it upto the sprocket you rotate the whole pump so it lines up to sprocket which is in a set position rather than install pump midway on slots then turn the pump shaft clockwise so it lines up with sprocket key way?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Fit pump into key way loose and turn whole pump to line up with key slot it should not be locked by the nuts at that stage. It will then sit in the correct starting position nip nuts up set DTI then set cam lift job done.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

Itl be a lot smoother than before

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Now i look properly, am a little concerned with last photo. If DTI was locked at 2 mm on inner dial then outer dial zeroed. Reading on small dial after timing set should be 2 mm plus 0.95 mm or very near to 3 mm not zero as in photo.

Click to expand...

Grrrrrr said:

Is the inner dial not mm and the outer one fractions of a millimetre so both zero together?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

The outer is indeed fractions and the smaller one mm but the outer dial is adjustable. So you push DTI in until it contacts the piston and then push in until 2 mm is registered on the inner dial. Then lock it in position. Then with inner dial showing 2 mm and locked at that position, you turn the outer dial to zero it. Then move pump to take the reading.

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Do not confuse the instructions in RAVE for checking time with the method of initial timing. Pump fitting, chain fitting and initial timing is done with engine locked at TDC at all times. Lock pin is not removed until cylinder head has been fitted and cam timed. Only then does RAVE checking pump timing come into play. And if my instructions have been followed this will not be required. Another thing that occurs to me is how the head has been stored. Some valves will be open or partially open with cam in place. These valves are VERY easy to bend if the head has not been stored on supports to prevent pressure on valves. It maybe an idea before refitting head to turn cam until valves on each cylinder are closed then pour paraffin into the ports to make sure there are no bent valves. An added complication i know but better to be sure rather than having to remove the head again. Placing two pieces of 3/8" dowel across block and gasket between cylinders when refitting head is a good method of replacing head. Remove one at a time when front case bolts have been engaged and head is aligned correctly. Dropping an open valve on the edge of a cylinder is not a good idea. And also the rear right hand head bolt MUST be inserted in head and held by an elastic band when head is re fitted as it cannot be fitted with head in place.

Click to expand...

Lukas018 said:

try my absolute best still goes to sh#t but not a mechanic and learn along the way.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

+1

My p38 was on its way to the scrapper. previous mechanic owner could get it to go 2miles then it would strop and have to be brought home on the lorry every time.
Was reluctant to let me to have it - Too spensive, not practically fixable, certainly not diy


I beep every time I drive past

Click to expand...

Lukas018 said:

@wammers I set pump that halfway on slots, attached photos of the key way vertical and line up where 6 on sprocket is with redline (slight adjustment needed for final line up). Does this look right now please?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Yep looks fine. With pump loose turn until timing marks line up on chain and fit it. Then finger tighten nuts, fit tensioner apply tension to chain. Nip nuts up as previously described. The rest you already know.

Click to expand...

Lukas018 said:

@wammers how do readings look?

Click to expand...

wammers said:

Pretty shit hot.

Click to expand...

Lukas018 said:

Thanks mate appreciate your help. Prob have some more queries later down the line

Click to expand...

wammers said:

I am still wondering how the inner dial reads 2 mm when you have that as a start point and you have added 0.95 turning pump towards engine.The inner dial should be reading just short of 3 mm. Did the outer dial drop away from zeroed 2 mm slightly as you moved pump towards engine. If it did, then when it stopped dropping you should have zeroed outer dial at that point, then set the 0.95mm . Hope that is clear enough.

Click to expand...