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The pilot injector won't make it run fast! You have two issues and need to deal with one at a time. The injector us the known issue as the wires have been cut..
P38A The arrival of a P38
- Thread starter Francesco M.
- Start date
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Pilot injector? Does the OP mean the needle lift sensor?
brianp38dse
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- heathrow
I take it as no4 injector with sensor at which point it should run on default setting with it unplugged.
- Posts
- 13,087
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Yip, that's Renault take on it from the same era
First double check the Fip timing is correct as per Rave. Then set the idle value at 128/129 with nanocom.
Then you can try loosening the Fip cover screws (1/4 turn is enough) and tap gently the cover with a wood and a hammer to change the actuator position. This will change idling and fueling. If the actuator is good you can reach the correct position. There is a tutorial on YouTube about this.
Francesco M.
Member
- Posts
- 42
Hello guys! On Saturday I did some checks to understand the nature of the problem with the car making white smoke and not idling. I checked the flow rate of the lift pump and it does 220ml in 10 seconds. I checked the timing chain alignment again. I opened, checked and cleaned the injectors except the wired one, tried to restart and nothing changed. I did some checks with the nanocom, on the fip times screen, all the spaces are empty except for the last one where there is 128. I tried to enter 8, 128 etc... and write them but the spaces come back empty. My Range is one of the first produced in December 1994, perhaps there is no possibility to save this data. With the Nanocom I saw that the needle (rpm) follows the speed of the crankshaft (RPM), should the wired injector work well?
I noticed an anomalous data on the air temperature, which sensor reports this data? could it affect the malfunction?
I also tried pushing the actuator slightly back and forth but it only got worse, I rotated the pump in the slots anticipating it a few degrees, but the engine took on the typical sound of an engine that is too advanced, the smoke was darker but the problem persists. At this point I notice that the FIP has leaks (my fault for not having seen it before) so I decide to dismantle the FIP and I find it completely covered in black sludge and the automatic advance system mixed up which I unblocked with Scotch Brite and WD40, I ordered a kit of Bosch gaskets and a dial gauge adapter to screw into the head of the Fip to adjust the lift
Now I clean it from all the dirt and put the seal kit, but I don't know how to clean the actuator without damaging it, hoping that it is functional. If anyone has any advice I would appreciate it.
I noticed an anomalous data on the air temperature, which sensor reports this data? could it affect the malfunction?
I also tried pushing the actuator slightly back and forth but it only got worse, I rotated the pump in the slots anticipating it a few degrees, but the engine took on the typical sound of an engine that is too advanced, the smoke was darker but the problem persists. At this point I notice that the FIP has leaks (my fault for not having seen it before) so I decide to dismantle the FIP and I find it completely covered in black sludge and the automatic advance system mixed up which I unblocked with Scotch Brite and WD40, I ordered a kit of Bosch gaskets and a dial gauge adapter to screw into the head of the Fip to adjust the lift
Now I clean it from all the dirt and put the seal kit, but I don't know how to clean the actuator without damaging it, hoping that it is functional. If anyone has any advice I would appreciate it.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 45,580
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
The black sludge is most likely from bacterial growth in the tank, common problem with diesel and could also be responsible for the white smoke. You can get an additive to kill the bacteria. The actuator can be cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol.
Francesco M.
Member
- Posts
- 42
Thanks datatek always very helpful! I imagined they were bacteria due to the long period of downtime, but can they cause the pump to malfunction and therefore white smoke?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 45,580
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- Near Poitiers SW France
The bacteria burning can cause white smoke and the sludge gums everything up, used to see it quite a lot on sailing boat auxiliary engines. It can be very difficult to get the tank clean, had to steam clean them in the past and flush the pipework. The injectors may also be full of the sludge.
I'm puzzled by the lack of numbers in the trim boxes, maybe as you say they were not used on the early car but that seems unlikely.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,638
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I'd leave that setting at 128 rpm. Adjust idle on pump top to 750 rpm.
Lift sensor rpm will follow crank. You'll see them diverge as you accelerate or drop off the throttle.
White smoke sounds like too much diesel going through.
Air temp will make a difference. Too high probably makes it run lean though. Is the cable broken inside or connector not quite done up?
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,638
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Mine's an early one. Sure I put the values in a post somewhere and possibly an EDC trace from the Nanocom if he wants to compare the values. Might have called it something like EDCfuelling.xlsb
Mine's Late EDC in the settings but as far as I remember that is just the security code setting.
Francesco M.
Member
- Posts
- 42
I cleaned the injectors but the dirt was less noticeable than on the FIP. Due to the lack of numbers in the first models, after many unsuccessful attempts to write them, I read it in a post, I don't remember if it was an old Wammers post or on rangerovers.net. These days I'll get busy with the cleaning and then, as always, I'll update you.
Francesco M.
Member
- Posts
- 42
Hi Grrr! it's true yours is also one of the first but I remember reading that apart from updated electronics, you have a BeCM V36 or 37, so you will also have a more recent ECM than mine. There's a post talking about this, if I find it I'll post it
Francesco M.
Member
- Posts
- 42
at post #124 Wammers says: "Nanocom info does say later ECU versions had trimmable values. Maybe the early ones don't need the numbers. But not entirely sure. As said the 97 one didn't have them but I loaded them. But it was a bit of a mishmash as said."
P38A - P38 FIP Repairs
I would leave it. I've never known anyone ever touch that calibration screen other than to hide an issue. I am more interested in why you cannot see anything. I wonder if there is something up with the ECU? Or someone played with it? Any memory device that can be altered is capable of losing...
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Francesco M.
Member
- Posts
- 42
Hello everyone!
I'll update you a bit with my work, I opened the actuator to clean the sludge from the coil and the tracks, I cut the 7 contacts. There was dirt between the coil and the stator that rotates with the actuator pin and the movement was not smooth. I used isopropyl alcohol as Datatek suggested. I cleaned the internal metal parts with brake cleaner. I bought a Bosch gasket kit on ebay and put everything back in place.
I advanced it to 0.95mm (I have new chains), recharged the diesel circuit and the old Range started right away, just enough time to adjust the actuator displacement and it started playing like Paganini's violin again. My assistant always does a follow-up check, he doesn't trust it
I then moved on to the braking system, I put a new accumulator, did a complete change of brake fluid and complete bleeding as per RAVE, despite this, at every braking the orange ABS light and the red parking brake light continued to come on, the NANOCOM did not read any errors, then I decided to remove the pressure switch, it was stuck in the closed position and did not come forward, old oil can cause this problem, since it is a component no longer available I tried to repair it. I marked the position of the plastic part where the connector goes, with a small flat screwdriver I lifted the aluminum sheet that holds it in place. At this stage you have to be very careful because the connector part is connected to the switch via a film with integrated wires, they must not be broken. Unscrewing counterclockwise and holding down the connector part, I counted how many turns were needed to extract it, after 11 turns it came off. This sensor is made of an electrical part and a mechanical part, overall it is very robust and it seems difficult to break, the switch can be tested by checking the continuity on the 2 pins that I put in the photo, there is a small black screw that sticks out, I would not recommend moving that because I think it serves as a spacer. The mechanical part is the green one, it has a pin that makes a small axial movement, it must not have jamming. Mine was almost blocked, with WD40 and patience I unlocked it, subsequently I screwed the electrical part back with the 11 turns until it aligned with the mark made previously. The right height can be checked by moving the pin and hearing the click of the switch, with one turn more or one less it will not do it. I put it back in its place, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better
I put it back, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better but the pump comes on every two hard brakes, probably I still have air in the system, it was late and I was tired, next time I will do it. I also have the front right caliper stuck, so I will have to change the pistons, as well as the front discs and all 4 pads. For now I am satisfied, but there is still a lot to do
I'll update you a bit with my work, I opened the actuator to clean the sludge from the coil and the tracks, I cut the 7 contacts. There was dirt between the coil and the stator that rotates with the actuator pin and the movement was not smooth. I used isopropyl alcohol as Datatek suggested. I cleaned the internal metal parts with brake cleaner. I bought a Bosch gasket kit on ebay and put everything back in place.
I advanced it to 0.95mm (I have new chains), recharged the diesel circuit and the old Range started right away, just enough time to adjust the actuator displacement and it started playing like Paganini's violin again. My assistant always does a follow-up check, he doesn't trust it
I then moved on to the braking system, I put a new accumulator, did a complete change of brake fluid and complete bleeding as per RAVE, despite this, at every braking the orange ABS light and the red parking brake light continued to come on, the NANOCOM did not read any errors, then I decided to remove the pressure switch, it was stuck in the closed position and did not come forward, old oil can cause this problem, since it is a component no longer available I tried to repair it. I marked the position of the plastic part where the connector goes, with a small flat screwdriver I lifted the aluminum sheet that holds it in place. At this stage you have to be very careful because the connector part is connected to the switch via a film with integrated wires, they must not be broken. Unscrewing counterclockwise and holding down the connector part, I counted how many turns were needed to extract it, after 11 turns it came off. This sensor is made of an electrical part and a mechanical part, overall it is very robust and it seems difficult to break, the switch can be tested by checking the continuity on the 2 pins that I put in the photo, there is a small black screw that sticks out, I would not recommend moving that because I think it serves as a spacer. The mechanical part is the green one, it has a pin that makes a small axial movement, it must not have jamming. Mine was almost blocked, with WD40 and patience I unlocked it, subsequently I screwed the electrical part back with the 11 turns until it aligned with the mark made previously. The right height can be checked by moving the pin and hearing the click of the switch, with one turn more or one less it will not do it. I put it back in its place, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better
I put it back, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better but the pump comes on every two hard brakes, probably I still have air in the system, it was late and I was tired, next time I will do it. I also have the front right caliper stuck, so I will have to change the pistons, as well as the front discs and all 4 pads. For now I am satisfied, but there is still a lot to do
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 45,580
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Nice work.Hello everyone!
I'll update you a bit with my work, I opened the actuator to clean the sludge from the coil and the tracks, I cut the 7 contacts. There was dirt between the coil and the stator that rotates with the actuator pin and the movement was not smooth. I used isopropyl alcohol as Datatek suggested. I cleaned the internal metal parts with brake cleaner. I bought a Bosch gasket kit on ebay and put everything back in place.
View attachment 336768View attachment 336769
View attachment 336770View attachment 336771View attachment 336772
I advanced it to 0.95mm (I have new chains), recharged the diesel circuit and the old Range started right away, just enough time to adjust the actuator displacement and it started playing like Paganini's violin again. My assistant always does a follow-up check, he doesn't trust it
View attachment 336773
I then moved on to the braking system, I put a new accumulator, did a complete change of brake fluid and complete bleeding as per RAVE, despite this, at every braking the orange ABS light and the red parking brake light continued to come on, the NANOCOM did not read any errors, then I decided to remove the pressure switch, it was stuck in the closed position and did not come forward, old oil can cause this problem, since it is a component no longer available I tried to repair it. I marked the position of the plastic part where the connector goes, with a small flat screwdriver I lifted the aluminum sheet that holds it in place. At this stage you have to be very careful because the connector part is connected to the switch via a film with integrated wires, they must not be broken. Unscrewing counterclockwise and holding down the connector part, I counted how many turns were needed to extract it, after 11 turns it came off. This sensor is made of an electrical part and a mechanical part, overall it is very robust and it seems difficult to break, the switch can be tested by checking the continuity on the 2 pins that I put in the photo, there is a small black screw that sticks out, I would not recommend moving that because I think it serves as a spacer. The mechanical part is the green one, it has a pin that makes a small axial movement, it must not have jamming. Mine was almost blocked, with WD40 and patience I unlocked it, subsequently I screwed the electrical part back with the 11 turns until it aligned with the mark made previously. The right height can be checked by moving the pin and hearing the click of the switch, with one turn more or one less it will not do it. I put it back in its place, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better
View attachment 336774View attachment 336775View attachment 336776View attachment 336777
I put it back, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better but the pump comes on every two hard brakes, probably I still have air in the system, it was late and I was tired, next time I will do it. I also have the front right caliper stuck, so I will have to change the pistons, as well as the front discs and all 4 pads. For now I am satisfied, but there is still a lot to do
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
- Posts
- 19,638
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Hello everyone!
I'll update you a bit with my work, I opened the actuator to clean the sludge from the coil and the tracks, I cut the 7 contacts. There was dirt between the coil and the stator that rotates with the actuator pin and the movement was not smooth. I used isopropyl alcohol as Datatek suggested. I cleaned the internal metal parts with brake cleaner. I bought a Bosch gasket kit on ebay and put everything back in place.
View attachment 336768View attachment 336769
View attachment 336770View attachment 336771View attachment 336772
I advanced it to 0.95mm (I have new chains), recharged the diesel circuit and the old Range started right away, just enough time to adjust the actuator displacement and it started playing like Paganini's violin again. My assistant always does a follow-up check, he doesn't trust it
View attachment 336773
I then moved on to the braking system, I put a new accumulator, did a complete change of brake fluid and complete bleeding as per RAVE, despite this, at every braking the orange ABS light and the red parking brake light continued to come on, the NANOCOM did not read any errors, then I decided to remove the pressure switch, it was stuck in the closed position and did not come forward, old oil can cause this problem, since it is a component no longer available I tried to repair it. I marked the position of the plastic part where the connector goes, with a small flat screwdriver I lifted the aluminum sheet that holds it in place. At this stage you have to be very careful because the connector part is connected to the switch via a film with integrated wires, they must not be broken. Unscrewing counterclockwise and holding down the connector part, I counted how many turns were needed to extract it, after 11 turns it came off. This sensor is made of an electrical part and a mechanical part, overall it is very robust and it seems difficult to break, the switch can be tested by checking the continuity on the 2 pins that I put in the photo, there is a small black screw that sticks out, I would not recommend moving that because I think it serves as a spacer. The mechanical part is the green one, it has a pin that makes a small axial movement, it must not have jamming. Mine was almost blocked, with WD40 and patience I unlocked it, subsequently I screwed the electrical part back with the 11 turns until it aligned with the mark made previously. The right height can be checked by moving the pin and hearing the click of the switch, with one turn more or one less it will not do it. I put it back in its place, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better
View attachment 336774View attachment 336775View attachment 336776View attachment 336777
I put it back, bled it again and tested the car, it brakes better but the pump comes on every two hard brakes, probably I still have air in the system, it was late and I was tired, next time I will do it. I also have the front right caliper stuck, so I will have to change the pistons, as well as the front discs and all 4 pads. For now I am satisfied, but there is still a lot to do
I used an Ezibleed kit with the spare wheel when I changed the modulator. I ended up pushing 3 litres of brake fluid through its bleed nipple before bubbles stopped coming out. After that I just bled as per RAVE.
