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I bought new switches from a Land Rover dealer when fitting heated seats to my facelift Freelander, about £16 each iirc

The one on my car is called Eric but that's probably not much use to you:D

Does the engine run fine until its warm? if so it could be the IACV - Idle air control valve playing up, it allows extra air into the engine when cold but closes as the engine warms, if it fails in the open position then the car can run rough and cut out.

Mine is 14 years old later this year and no sign of rust anywhere, had a good poke about last summer to check underside as well

Glad you got it sorted :)

It didnt increase my premium at the time as I told them it was standard land rover parts but from a newer model year

I would check the connection under the seat in case its worked lose

I have both a TD4 and an older 1.8 XEi, for the limited mileage the OP is wanting to do I would go for the 1.8 - well I did when I wanted a cheap winter runabout 2 years ago and its been brilliant and reliable but, if it goes wrong, I can fix it myself. The TD4 is more reliable but if it goes...

Was this diagnosed by the AA/RAC or similar? as they often get it totally wrong

Not got a rasp on mine, was going to suggest the cat but you have eliminated that, might just be a fault inside - I remember on a car I had years ago the previous owner had fitted a bosal exhaust and where the 2 downpipes were 'squeezed' into one, it caused a horrible rasp.

Just what I was thinking, if so it will need the VVC loom and ECU to run. Easy way to check is does it have the plastic inlet manifold like your original or the metal one?

What age is your Freelander 1.8? it needs to be MEMS 3 ECU (with coil packs) to enable it to be re-mapped. Best people to contact are Z and F tuning Click They are well recommended on the MG Forum and these guys wrote the original map for MG/Rover

My 1998 Freelanders disc back plates started to rust badly and bits of it were starting to rub against the disc, I just cut them off and the brakes are fine without the back plates.

I had something similar on my 1.8 when I first got it and traced the fault to the exhaust downpipe bracket not being attached to the sump, 2 bolts screwed in and all was well, not sure if the TD4 has a different exhaust mounting system though

I did the same with our TD4 and just plugged seats and switches in and everything worked perfectly - heated seats are great :) Oh - side steps still going strong on my 1.8 - thanks again :)

Most kits come with a new spool wheel

Try bleeding the clutch hydraulic system first and check the bracket that the clutch slave cylinder is mounted on at the gearbox as this has been known to bend.

Once removed get the whole mechanism on the bench, they are not difficult to replace just make sure you get the cables tight around the winding cog when re-fitting, its a bit of a faff but fine when you get the hang of it.

Sometimes when the pads have not been removed for a while they can stick in the caliper slightly, as above remove the pads and give the caliper, carrier and pads a good clean with a wire brush then coat the back of the pad and the edge of the pad where it comes into contact with the caliper...

I have not refitted mine - just a pain if you get a puncture then have to try and remove them when stuck solid with mud