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Think the running it might not work as there is only the compression working for you, not a charge of diesel firing as well. Probably also won't help that the engine is cold. Wonder if starting it up then using easystart might help. (I've used the slacken the clamp bolt & start it on my Sprinter...

The outer braid is stainless steel. The inner pipe is PTFE Teflon. The point of the stainless braid is to stop pressure causing the pipe to expand. The whole thing is therefore thinner than the equivalent rubber hose & has a nicer cosmetic appearance. BUT with the rubber hose it's easy to see...

I've never liked the stainless steel braid covered aftermarket brake hoses no matter what the vehicle. They look very pretty but you can't see what state the hose itself is in & that's the important bit.

Interesting. UK manual doesn't give it one way or the other, but as you say it's clearly stated as a Major in the NI one. UK here. Section 7.8 www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment

OP last logged in May 2020. No update as to whether their cause was found.

As you remove the rocker shaft pillars - bolts hold these to the head - check for shims under the pillar bottoms. These - if necessary & there may not be any - are used to adjust the preload on the followers.

It's empty.

Worth watching the video. Hopefully you'll manage to get it out, but plan for 'worst case'. TBH I've not found taking mine off that much of a problem & bleeding was straightforward. I also replaced the input shaft seal in situ.

I don't know which box you've got on yours, but there's a 'how to' showing the dismantling of an adwest lightweight here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXQIsfBBhkk

Which vehicle? ETA Quick look at your profile suggests it's a Defender 110. Done this a couple of times in situ on my RRC (4 bolt box), but the circlip behaved itself after a bit of cleaning, lubricating & tapping. Last time I used the blue seal & put a speedisleeve on the shaft. Your old...

This one? www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202201131292862 No mention of any S/H & as it's a non runner you won't be able to check the big ticket items incl gearbox & suspension.

Are you after the rubber bits or replacement weld on mounts? If it's the latter then Froggatts. When I did the rear body to sill mount the rubbers etc came with it. As far as other bits are concerned I look up the part number then search online & compare prices so I've used quite a few...

That's the risk. I'd be inclined to stick with a standard camshaft. Replace the camshaft, the followers, the chain & both sprockets. Perhaps have a look at Turner Engineering's website. Engine reconditioners & they sell the same items they use themselves & their prices are fine...

+1

Don't know if this will be of any help? Click on the correct vehicle & then work through the sub menus until you find the part. Clicking on the blue number next to the part will bring up the part number. Lrcat

Check & clean the battery terminals. Fully charge the battery using a battery charger. Clean the starter motor terminals. If it still doesn't work connect a good quality jump lead to the battery earth terminal & to a good clean piece of metal on the engine - to check if earth leads are in good...

If it's putting up that much of a fight I think Datatek's welding a nut on is the solution. Do it when you get back from London.

Here it is. Watch from 1:19:12: www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRs-4AXb9_U Be careful refitting the screen - might be worth getting a professional fitter to do it.

I think you mean the panel that runs across the top of the screen that the screen seal rubber pushes onto. This is not part of the roof & AFAIAA there is no replacement piece for it so it's a cut one off a scrapper job if it can't be repaired. There is a 'how to' somewhere - possibly on one of...

Other than plug deposits, what are you basing your running rich on? I was curious as to what the emissions figures were. NGK part finder suggests your plugs should be BPR5ES. Hotter than 6 & I wonder if that might be a contributory factor to the sooty deposits. Part Finder - NGK Spark Plugs I...