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First of all, before asking - read Owners Manual!

Original radiator design is good, top and bottom tanks just needs to be replaced with fabricated metal ones. Just bleeding pipe and baffle needs to be made the same way as stock.

Just enough to cause "lumpy" idle when cold. :D

Check injection timing.

It's not "sorted", it's "masked". :D

Check earth point for radio. Anyway, it's not worth keeping stock Alpine head unit - it makes it sound very harsh. :D

I don't think it's radio problem, looks like swithed +12V is getting power from somewhere else Maybe poorly made lpg electrics are causing this.

Any aftermarket electrical stuff installed?

It's the only sensor that is needed to start this engine.

Starting map can be modified to eliminate some of the hot starting problems. However it will not start when it's not cranking fast enough, no matter what you do.

Fit BERU glowplugs, it's factory equipment.

If there is no rev counter and high revs on a diesel, then it's crankshaft position sensor problem.

If it's leaking from bottom of the pump(timing piston cover), then it can be easily sealed by replacing O-rings. But beware not to loose the spring and adjusting washers. If it wasn't touched, it's very likely to leak in other places(hardened seals) when you seal it, hence why it's better to...

:D

Earlier ones also had turbo intake elbow made from soft plastic, which gets even softer over time(high temperature doesn't help) - it can collapse causing total loss of power and lots of blue smoke from exhaust when high power demand(foot to the floor). Newer ones are made from some very stiff...

He even took photos when disassembling. :D

Genuine one will be the best for stock vehicle. I've got terrafirma one and it gets very stiff in cold weather causing problems with returning of steering wheel to center position..

Fitted vane pump cover 180 deg out covering inlet or outlet hole. Still have no idea how it was getting fuel to injectors running only on in tank lift pump. :D

Very little or zero. But starts building it when cranking. Injection timing solenoid still needs internal pressure to advance timing. I have a mate that assembled pump in wrong order, so it had zero pressure with engine running(unbelievable it was running!), but was unable to reach more than 90...

If you want fast 2.5, then fit slightly bigger turbo(TD04-15T), chip it accordinally and you can reach 200hp with ease. :D