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Elbow must be very stiff, newer one is simply plastic instead of rubber in old ones. Intercooler to manifold pipe can only be bad if delaminated, it cannot be sucked as there is always positive pressure(there will be negative pressure if intake elbow closes first).

Check intake elbow between "intercooled" plastic and turbo.

High MPG readings confirms that calibration is done wrong. When pump is set correctly, fuel consumption readings will be close to reality(brim to brim). Worst idle will be when engine is cold.

Looks like it's badly calibrated pump giving too much fuel at low load conditions. ECU tries to lower fuelling, but can not reach proper control collar position, this results in cutting fuel to maintain idle speed.

Isn't D2 fan rotating in opposite direction?

Starter on diesel is easy to replace, just need to remove inlet manifold. :D

The same weird self healing happened to my sisters p38, previously it was way underpowered, one week ago i've changed injection pump and injectors to the set from previous engine with blown head/head gasket. Obviously nothing has improved. Changed MAF and MAP sensors with new ones, and still...

Some folks use it as digital speedo with oversized tires. :D

It will not change what speedometer shows, only what nanocom shows.

No, you can't. Tyre coefficient in nanocom is only for instruments mode display.

0 281 001 677 is ECU bosch part number for newer engine with EGR, 1 037 351 254 is software version.

Power boxes are built from resistors to fool ECU to make it think that it needs more fuel. It simply lifts real fuel quantinity in all circumstances, that's why gear changes are so harsh. I have 3 rangies with 2.5 diesels, first one is chipped, second has switchable(with button on dash) power...

Altering fuel quantinity wil do big difference with off line torque, but you do in at your own risk - you may end in runaway engine if you tap pump top too hard.. Proper remap gives best results, and does not eat gearbox like plug in chips/boxes do. :D

Yes, it can be better if set correctly, it should run even if you set it around 4mg/stroke(if pump top is in good shape). Currently i'm running with 2,7mg/stroke on one of mine, but it's a bit overkill, as revs are dropping slowly below 1200 rpm. It should be ok with 4-5mg/stroke hot engine with...

Those older ones are much better, no egr, airflow meter and much more responsive engine with lower fuel consumption. Air temperature is weird value on both versions.

Occasional missfire is probably duff injector.

They don't glow over 40 deg C. Glow plug timer has only one time setting, ECU gives it only a short ON signal. This is how timers work.

It's only glow plug light time that changes, glowing time is always the same(it's over 10 seconds if i remember correctly). Fit only BERU glow plugs, others are too slow for it. There may be a problem with coolant temp sensor for ECU or fuel temp sensor - both alters how much fuel is injected...

Some BMW had another temperature sensor/switch in head for emergency use of AC fan in case of viscous fan failure.

Most of the times it can be driver almost normaly with cracked head but without coolant reservoir cap(no pressure in system). But it will overheat with high load driving uphill. It's cheaper to replace engine with good one. :D