P38A P38 big service, overhall advice needed

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hooterthehatter

hooterthehatter

Member
Posts
25
Location
strabane co tyrone
hi all
I am sending my 1997 P38 2.5d auto in for a service with a local mechanic (he is darn good with older diesels!)
gonna get the usual done
oil and filter, air filter, brake pads
gearbox fluid change
front and back diff fluids changed
coolant changed
what else do you recommend I get done, the beast has 198k up on clock
very sluggish first few miles and a lot of groans and rattles until it heats up fully!
driving from 30mph to 60 mph takes it about 3 miles to reach that speed, no point timing that, 0-60 well sometimes under 5 minutes! lol not even joking
sport mode button does nothing, ever, guessing the transmission ecm under driver seat is cooked, can I just replace it? or do I need it coded in any way to suit my model?
what gaskets/seals would you recommend changing at this mileage?
what preventative measures to ensure long running in years to come?
which parts would be best to replace?
I have fitted a refurbed air compressor for suspension, new alternator last year and upper/lower oil cooler pipes
any help would be most welcome :)
 
Flush intercooler. Grease UJs. I'd check the timing modulation and all inputs from sensors. At that mileage the chains are probably stretched to the point they need replacing together with the sprockets. Sensors might be failing. FIP may need replacing if it is original, possibly lift pump too so best check operation of both. Probably find the seals on the FIP failing if they haven't already been done. When were the shocks done? Not the air-springs but the dampers. You could spend forever on these things!
 
Grrrrrr said:
Flush intercooler. Grease UJs. I'd check the timing modulation and all inputs from sensors. At that mileage the chains are probably stretched to the point they need replacing together with the sprockets. Sensors might be failing. FIP may need replacing if it is original, possibly lift pump too so best check operation of both. Probably find the seals on the FIP failing if they haven't already been done. When were the shocks done? Not the air-springs but the dampers. You could spend forever on these things!
Click to expand...

yeah I forgot to mention the Fip started leaking a week ago getting that refurbished at same time as overhall, nice smell of diesel when driving coming through vents!
does mechanic need testbook or nanocom to check sensors? don't think he has access to either.
will get him to check all items you mentioned i will print that list out for him
good list, a lot of things there I would never have thought of, still a newbee as only own the beast 7 months and did 15k miles on it even though its very sluggish!
I have no idea when shocks or anything else was done the previous owner had it 2 years and did 400 miles on it and no work at all, before him god knows!
if you think of anything else please add it to list, this trip to garage is gonna cost me more than the beast did, I really think we are all mad driving these motors but, its a passion, an obsession, one way ticket to divorce lol ;)
many thanks for the reply :)
 
Falk said:
Not sure if your's will have it but egr - either new or bypass it (i did on my TD4 with good results)
Click to expand...
not sure about a egr, but thanks to this forum I read I can run without one if I reprogram them ecu, but I think it has a role to play in engine so will get it checked as well and just leave it in there.
where would we be without this forum!
Thanks for reply :)
 
EGR is to do with reducing NOx emissions in exhaust. Works by putting exhaust back in fresh charge. Which IMO is useless on a car like this - you want a cold dense charge (as it has an intercooler). Over time it gets clogged - causing sluggish performance. Feels like Turbo at ½ speed all the time. I wouldn't know specific to your EECU management but my TD4 did not require any hacking into blank it off.

Mines a 4.6 l so i won't put all the engine work i have done as it is irrelevant.

But at 100k heres my list of some of the work i have done extra to yours -

Gearbox filter as well

4 new hubs - CV gaiters - Upper / lower ball joints - Axle seals

Steering Damper - Track rod

All suspension bushes - Air bags - Shocks - anti roll links

Brake flexi hoses - callipers - slide rail - discs - pads

UJ's - diff seals - grease nipples on props

Stainless straight through exh decat (not relevant :))
 
But you can really throw a blank cheque at it.....depends what you want to do! I would say out of that your bushes (;)) and ball joints / anti roll links may need attention. But he should inspect and let you know what he thinks!
 
Many thanks Falk for replies, blank cheque indeed
starting to think the cost is more than I can handle in one go, might prioritise things on all the lists by what parts needs attention/replaced first and do it in three stages over three months.
I paid £1500 for the beast 7 months ago I have already spent another £900 on it! this overhaul is looking around 3k, for that total I could buy a l322!
starting to think I am mad! but then again if I buy a l322 I would spend as much getting it running tip top, as I like thing to run right.
decisions decisions
some one lock me up, time to sleep on it (nightmares)
 
Decent garage diagnostics can read most of the engine ECU. Anything else will require Testbook, something from Blackbox Solutions like a Nanocom or a Hawkeye. Not sure how much Lynx can do.

Have you downloaded RAVE? There is a link in the Technical Section. In RAVE there is a maintenance section with an A4 sheet you can print off to see what needs doing when.

Get the essentials done and then put the rest of the money aside for when something goes bang. Note the when, not if!

Best check if you have the type 3 RF receiver too. That could save you a lot of pain.
 
just to update on progress, always think its good to follow up,
had fip replaced with a refurbished one, oil cooler pipes (upper and lower) replaced
all brake pads and discs done, all fluids changed (engine gearbox diffs etc)
fuel filter air filter oil filter etc
a couple of wheel bearings as well
coolant flushed
engine pressure tested

now I have a rough running idle! revs drop then shoot u,p drops to 400rpm up to 1300rpm and black smoke flys from exhaust!
would a few weeks running help it? or is it a issue with the new fip not playing ball with old timing chain? been told this can be a issue

any ideas welcome
 
Never heard that.

From what you've done they may have cracked the fuel filter housing. Any air in the clear pipe between the fuel filter and the FIP? Failing that I suspect somethng isn't right with the FIP. Did its part number end 994?

Might be worth checking fuel output from lift-pump.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Never heard that.

From what you've done they may have cracked the fuel filter housing. Any air in the clear pipe between the fuel filter and the FIP? Failing that I suspect somethng isn't right with the FIP. Did its part number end 994?

Might be worth checking fuel output from lift-pump.
Click to expand...
not sure of part number or air in pipe will speak to my mechanic after work,
it only hunts/surges in neutral and park, when I put it in drive or reverse with my foot on brake it idles fine, and revs at around 750 rpm would this make issue any better to understand?
 
hooterthehatter said:
not sure of part number or air in pipe will speak to my mechanic after work,
it only hunts/surges in neutral and park, when I put it in drive or reverse with my foot on brake it idles fine, and revs at around 750 rpm would this make issue any better to understand?
Click to expand...

The more information the better. Think we need someone with more knowledge like Wammers.
 
My moneis on the FIP I would have left it well alone and just reasealed it on the car it's usually the injector head seal that leaks and can be replace with a viton seal which will outlast the car and works well with bio/svo and the ultra low sulphur crap diesel we have now which is why the seal leaked in the first place, the sulphur was there to keep the seals in good condition remove it and the seals dry up and leak.

Good luck with it
 
hooterthehatter said:
not sure of part number or air in pipe will speak to my mechanic after work,
it only hunts/surges in neutral and park, when I put it in drive or reverse with my foot on brake it idles fine, and revs at around 750 rpm would this make issue any better to understand?
Click to expand...
Looks like it's badly calibrated pump giving too much fuel at low load conditions. ECU tries to lower fuelling, but can not reach proper control collar position, this results in cutting fuel to maintain idle speed.
 
thanks for all your input, my mechanic is on hols for a week! will pass on your info when he is back.
update to problem, I have driven around 200 miles since I got it back from garage, the idle problem is getting lots better, not shaking the car as much at idle, some times it idles fine without a surge/hunt! if the fip was badly calibrated would it not do the same hunting each and every time?
As I say its much better, can a FIP be unstable? or when its set, its set without any chance of deviation? do they deviate from settings in any way?
now for a impossible event which must be related to the FIP, my mpg which always sits between 21-23 mpg has decided to steadily rise to between 40-50mpg no matter how hard I drive!
I don't have car chipped or modded and that figure is just wrong! any ideas on that?
 

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hooterthehatter said:
thanks for all your input, my mechanic is on hols for a week! will pass on your info when he is back.
update to problem, I have driven around 200 miles since I got it back from garage, the idle problem is getting lots better, not shaking the car as much at idle, some times it idles fine without a surge/hunt! if the fip was badly calibrated would it not do the same hunting each and every time?
As I say its much better, can a FIP be unstable? or when its set, its set without any chance of deviation? do they deviate from settings in any way?
now for a impossible event which must be related to the FIP, my mpg which always sits between 21-23 mpg has decided to steadily rise to between 40-50mpg no matter how hard I drive!
I don't have car chipped or modded and that figure is just wrong! any ideas on that?
Click to expand...
It's making it's own diesel:)
 
hooterthehatter said:
thanks for all your input, my mechanic is on hols for a week! will pass on your info when he is back.
update to problem, I have driven around 200 miles since I got it back from garage, the idle problem is getting lots better, not shaking the car as much at idle, some times it idles fine without a surge/hunt! if the fip was badly calibrated would it not do the same hunting each and every time?
As I say its much better, can a FIP be unstable? or when its set, its set without any chance of deviation? do they deviate from settings in any way?
now for a impossible event which must be related to the FIP, my mpg which always sits between 21-23 mpg has decided to steadily rise to between 40-50mpg no matter how hard I drive!
I don't have car chipped or modded and that figure is just wrong! any ideas on that?
Click to expand...

High MPG readings confirms that calibration is done wrong. When pump is set correctly, fuel consumption readings will be close to reality(brim to brim).
Worst idle will be when engine is cold.
 
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