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Dont worry about it. Mine is a manual TD4 and copes fine. Granted not the Alps, but its steep, twisty switch-back roads everywhere round here and the Freelander does fine. In heavy snow I have found myself pushing a bow-wave of powder in front of me on unplowed roads to the point where I have...

Never seen one. I considered fitting a low profile lashing point to the roof, something like this... Then I could snap a carabiner to it with a rope over a pulley on the garage rafters, so just hoik it up out of the way. My garage is high enough to do this, but its another one of those jobs I...

If you dual the front, I would suggest beefing up the steering rack mounts - they are pretty flimsy as standard and I would think there will be a fair bit of extra force on the rack, especially off road. I dunno....I think the extra rolling resistance and grip might be a bit too much and you...

If its getting blocked, then there is a problem with the system....missing the wee filter that dangles on the end of the pipe, or one of the pipes is worn through...either will allow dirt to be drawn into the system, or worse if someone has connected the other end of the filter to the front diff...

It just provides a larger volume of vacuum....if you see what I mean....as a reserve so that repeatedly pressing the brakes will not have an effect on the EGR or VNT systems or vice-versa. The vacuum pump works with engine speed (driven off the end of a camshaft) and can only provide so much...

Its a vacuum reservoir - part of the system of vac lines operating the EGR, VNT and brake servo.

Opening the bleed screw should release any pressure in it. iirc mine jammed up while I was buggering around trying stuff. In the end I got a wee 12mm socket (cant remember what size actually) which would press on the black ring and used a big pair of mole-grips to press it in.

If you are bleeding it anyway, use a screwdriver or something to press in the black plastic collar around the central silver pin on the slave cylinder side of the coupling to release any pressure. It will be stiff if there is a lot of pressure in it and will spurt fluid out when you release it...

Yep, fuel cut off stops the pumps running and makes the locks play silly buggers to prevent you being trapped in event of a crash.

Yeah, its a dick of a job. Nothing is particularly difficult, but access is really tight, especially lowering the rack to pull the stub where the steering column connects through the floor. Once thats done it slides out easily enough.

Christ Almighty - that is properly horrific. So those rails are supported at the front and at the lower rear mounts? how much weight is he planning on putting on them? Still, to go along with his incredibly useless rails, he has the worlds least useful ladder too. I think even Stretch Armstrong...

Do you want burst shocks? because thats how you get burst shocks. A little bit more nose-down on the landing and its game-over, big style...... Like skidding along on its roof with blown airbags kind of thing.

The whole hub-centric thing doesnt really apply to freelanders as they have conical seat wheel nuts which will centralise the wheel as long as you tighten the nuts progressively. That style of spacer is no use for wheels that use flat seat wheel nuts, as the wheels will not centre on the studs...

replied.

^^^ Thats not me, but I used to be a tyre fitter amongst other things.

Drove it. A four hour round trip, with an empty trailer going out and loaded coming back. It ran fine. Its weird - I have had a feeling that something is not right for a couple of weeks, but never been able to put my finger on what exactly it might be. It just doesnt "feel" right. I know...

10 year old friction pads should have been changed about 8 years ago. I am assuming its an Alko hitch? remember that you will need the correct ball, whatever is on your towbar is perhaps not the type that is required by an Alko for full articulation. How is the ball height compared to your other...

Aye, I dont mean try it whilst attempting to beat 10 minutes round the Nurburgring, just on a bit of straight road at about 40kph....neutral, switch off, count to three, re-start (with the key, not bump-starting) into 3rd gear and carry on.

I wouldnt be ****ing about changing a single piston. Besides, who knows what other damage may be done and where the swarf might have ended up. It would be a real bummer to cough a grand for this and for the HP pump to die in a few weeks time due to running unlubricated.. I would be on the look...

Mine have taken to coming on every now and then. I have found that if I get up a bit of speed, put it in neutral, switch the engine off, coast for a few seconds, then re-start while still rolling, they go out and stay out.