Search results

Yes mate

Many thanks to all who advised on my problem.

I put on brand new hubs so no lip. For some reason the auto adjust didn't work, the cog needed winding on a bit. I adjusted the pads till they were just rubbing then adjusted the handbrake cables. I now have a handbrake that is working but I am not 100 % happy with it. I will give it a few days...

I took pics with the iPad so I would know it went back correctly.

Thanks for that, I thought that was the reason for pumping the 30 times to adjust the pads closer. I will give that a go tomorrow, thanks again.

2006 Freelander 1 TD4. Put on new drums, all new brake pads etc. New handbrake cables. Tried to adjust handbrake and run out of adjustment, no handbrake at all. Pumped foot brake 30 times before trying to adjust anything. I'm at a loss with this damn vehicle. Any suggestions please.

My Freelander had locking nuts and no removal socket to fit. The wheel nuts had two grooves that didn't line up with the two bars on a locking nut socket that I found at the scrappies. I chiselled one of the bars out of the locking nut socket and removed the wheel nuts with the one remaining bar...

Got to disagree on the metal in a ring quote. Years ago we used to get a thing called brake fade on HGVs, caused by excessive braking on long inclines. The heat generated by the pads caused the drums to expand away from the pads, sometimes causing complete brake failure.

Got you mate, I didn't have a problem with the rubber as the hole cutter just about took the lot out.

If you heat the centre shaft won't it expand and get tighter in the bracket? I noticed on the one I took out that it was well crimped by the ally bracket and it had fused to the ally as well.

Removed the rubber inner using a hole cutter that's used for wood. Used angle grinder to cut steel sleeve, then hacksaw to join the angle grinder cuts, you know when your through as the sleeve springs a little, gripping the hacksaw blade. Gentle tapping and sleeve dropped out. If your going to...

The rubber centre section is not the problem. It's the steel sleeve that the rubber is inside of. The sleeve has to be pushed out of the ally bracket. I have given an old one some mighty hits with a 2 pound hammer and there is no movement.

Can anyone tell me what strength press is required to push out the bracket inserts so I can fit poly bushes, would a 6 ton press do it?

Had the same problem. I was changing rusty drums, so decided to go the whole hog and change rear brake pads and handbrake cables. Everything fine now. There was no room to tension the handbrake cables further, maybe stretched a little over the years.

Thanks for that. I will try one on the front mount.

After some advice on rear diff mounts. I'm considering changing to poly bushes, has anyone tried them? Any pros and cons would be appreciated.

Many thanks for the explanation and your patience. Just going to order some.

Mmm I have looked at the pics, but I can't see how that g clamp is doing anything? How do you push the poly bushes into the bracket?

Is it possible to get poly bushes that are already fitted to the aluminium part?

Not done a lot since last Wednesday, grafted solid for 10 days under the bugger, just had the new rear diff brackets to fit, then I had an heart attack on Wednesday night. Treated by the finest medical team in Edinburgh, 3 hour 15 minute operation on Thursday morning, through an 1/8 of an inch...