ODB2 tuning chip

I was wondering if the ODB2 tuning chips make any difference to the vehicles driving style.

There about £3 off ebay so cant see them doing anything.

Anyone tried one??

Im looking at a cheap fix to give my Freelander a bit more poke. I've cleaned the EGR and MAF along with replacing the air filter and crank case breather but it is still a bit lumpy on start up and doesn't like first gear.

Cheers

Total ****e don't bother mate

Cheers mate, all noted.

There about £3 off ebay so cant see them doing anything

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looks like el-cheapo 3quid fix might be a resistor to fool the air intake temp sensor
so .. don't use one ..
it will probably cause lottsa exhaust smoke .. over-fuelling .. high emissions (mot)
carbon up the engine in the long run .. and engine could run much worse..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/20-BHP-Tuning-Chips-The-TRUTH-/10000000001405129/g.html

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you could achieve the same for no £ .. simply by disconnecting the a.i.temp sensor
which causes the ecu to use a default value of minus 5c ..
same result .. over-fuelling and smoke ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/and-the-black-smoke.224520/

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try disconnecting the Maf sensor .. as Sometimes with cleaning it .. can make matters worse
happened to me .. ended up buying a new Maf ..

i put forward .. that for better td4 drive-ability .. the cheapest option be
to do the intake mod together with deleting the egr valve ..
see :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/intercooler-problem-mod.126484/page-2#post-3853325

that won't give any more peak bhp .. but will give what's there .. sooner ( better go-pedal response )
and from lower rpm ..
but the Maf sensor must be in good condition for that mod to work ..
also .. unless needed .. be helpful to remove the foam surround from off the air filter ..
as it's somewhat restrictive ..
the target is to get .. quick moving cold air flowing across the Maf sensor ..
so also helpful to block off the few holes within the air filter housing .. as they draw in ..
hot ( and dirty ) air from inside the engine bay ,,

also helps to have a straight thru exhaust system ..

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next step : either a second hand .. or new .. Synergy 2a tuning box .. ( and Pierburg maf )
or save up for a proper Re-Map ..

the td4/m47r lump can be safely taken up to 150bhp
( as used in the bmw 320d car )
or even up to 170/180 bhp .. but there you risk much stress
on the drivetrain components .. ird .. etc etc ..
not to mention the risk of overly high exhaust temps. ..

LR tuned the td4/m47r to only 110 bhp
probably with the 4x4 drivetrain in mind ..

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meanwhile use a good fuel additive to clean the fuel system out .. etc ..

and double check that cleaning the Maf hasn't made it worse ..

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use 'contralube-770' on the various sensor plugs
especially on the fuel rail pressure sensor

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best approach to getting more 'zip' from a diesel .. is to go for more torque
from the lower rpm range .. and slightly bigger tyres to take advantage of it ..
i.e. slightly higher gearing ..
if you achieve a wide rpm power band .. this lets you use the higher gears to your advantage
e.g. 4th gear from 30mph ( aprox 1500 rpm ) up to nearly 80mph at the top rpm ..

as for diesels in general .. they won't rev like a petrol lump
as the internal bits are heavier ..
and not a very good idea to revs the nuts off a diesel anyway ..
i like to keep my td4 below a max. of 3000 rpm when up-changing ..
( for regular driving up changing between 2000 rpm and 2500 rpm )
and usualy use 1st just to get the vehicle rolling slightly before moving into 2nd
( e.g. change into 2nd at about 1200 rpm )
if the vehicle is moving in the ever slightest ( or facing downhill ) .. i'll choose 2nd gear ..
mine will happily get going with out complaint from 1000 rpm in 3rd .. even on a slight incline
( that's about 11mph ) .. provided i don't give it too much go-pedal too soon ..

as the ecu reacts not only to go-pedal position
but also to the rate at which the go-pedal is depressed
( i.e. how fast the pedal is pushed down )
i.e. ask the ecu for more fuel when there's not enough airflow across the Maf sensor .. results in hesitation ..
or worse bogging down 'no-go' .. ( so a gear down is needed )
until the airflow increases ..

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a btw : .. note ..
messing with the air intake system
just Might result in a difficult very 1st startup sequence ..
and takes maybe 1 or 2 .. engine off .. start 'n drive a few miles .. then engine off for a few minutes .. so the ecu can recalibrate for the new and better airflow ..
then all works well afterwards ..

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llewekab said:

still a bit lumpy on start up and doesn't like first gear.

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Might be worth a trip to your local indie garage and ask them to do a leak-back test on the injectors. When I've had these symptoms it's been rooted in the injectors. You could also try
a bottle of Diesel Magic next time you fill up.

Thanks for all your help.

I've cleaned the maf sensor and the EGR is pretty much brand new. I've put a new air filter in and added a strong injector cleaner. Its showing no errors when plugged in to the computer and there's no leaking around the injectors so cant see it being them.

I guess its just an old freelander with loads of miles and that's the way it drives. Its just very smokey when start up from cold and a bit juddery in first.

I'm sure i can live with it

Thanks again.

I guess its just an old freelander with loads of miles and that's the way it drives. Its just very smokey when start up from cold and a bit juddery in first

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check that the crankcase vent filter isn't clogged up
it's often overlooked on a 'service' .. should be changed every year ..
be important that the crank breather system be in good working order
it's easy and inexpensive to change the filter

that vent system can be checked by removing the oil dipstick
as the engine is idling
if oil pumps out the dipstick tube .. then the system needs attention

edited to add : also don't neglect the turbo vacuum solenoid filter
should be changed every year as well ..
it's part of the system that operates the turbo variable vanes
again .. it's easy and inexpensive to change that filter

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btw: the motor will run better if the egr valve be disabled or deleted
easiest to simply disconnect the vacuum hose from the egr device
and block the hose off ..
that way engine breathes fresh air .. as opposed to air + intermittent exhaust gas
and no baked-on gunk build up in the valve or intake manifold ..
you'll get better mpg as well ..
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if you do so .. there will probably be an odd noise after engine shut down ..
to avoid that .. see this link :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/where-does-this-go.223312/#post-2536215
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Thanks for that. Ive already changed the crankcase breather filter. Im dubious blocking off the egr as have heard it can make it worse.

Weirdly when i took off the plastic engine cover it did spurt oil out of one of the screw holes that the cover screws into. No other leaks anywhere else.

I may just have get use to the way it drives.

Thanks again,

Im dubious blocking off the egr as have heard it can make it worse.

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not possible on the td4/m47r .. letting the engine breath fresh air will not make it worse
( what's 'it' ??? )
t.b.h. if someone ask me for One only mod to do on that engine to improve driveabilty
i'd say get rid of .. or disable .. the egr system

Weirdly when i took off the plastic engine cover it did spurt oil out of one of the screw holes that the cover screws into

Click to expand...

normal for that particular screw hole .. they all do it ..

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the only problem of getting rid of the egr is it will be illegal as of next month it will fail an mot here in the uk

Thanks for everyone's help. I've bought a blanking egr and see if it makes any difference.

My next issue is that the reverse parking sensors and lights are intermittent. I've changed the reverse switch and they not seem to work at all now. Any ideas???

Also the handbrake wont hold the cars weight on a hill, is this normal?? Ive adjusted the brake shows as much as i can and tightened the cable but it has not made much difference.

Thanks again for all your help.

llewekab said:

Also the handbrake wont hold the cars weight on a hill, is this normal??

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Not at all. The handbrake can give problems if the drums are worn or if the shoes aren't fitted or adjusted correctly. Were the shoes worn more in the middle than the ends? This would indicate drum wear.

Were the shoes adjusted before the handbrake cables were adjusted? The handbrake cables need backing off fully whenever the rear shoes are stripped and adjusted.

To be honest the shoes looked in good condition.. yeah we backed off the cable and then adjusted the shoes. We did it as much as we could before we'd struggled to get the drum back on. It does hold on a small gradient but anything more than that it slowly rolls.

Any ideas on the reverse senor/lights. Auto electrician??

Cheers

had similar hand-brake issue .. shoes 'n drums in good nick ..
only solution were to fit a new r.h.cable
worked fine since
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Cheers fr that. Is that something i can get off ebay and do myself.

Hand brake issue could also be caused by shoes incorrectly fitted by previous owner.
More than one person here caught out by that one. We once had a hilarious thread started by some eejit shouting about them not being self adjusting. He ranted for days until we finally realised he had them fitted the wrong way round.

Had the same problem. I was changing rusty drums, so decided to go the whole hog and change rear brake pads and handbrake cables. Everything fine now. There was no room to tension the handbrake cables further, maybe stretched a little over the years.

Cheers