Fit pump into key way loose and turn whole pump to line up with key slot it should not be locked by the nuts at that stage. It will then sit in the correct starting position nip nuts up set DTI then set cam lift job done.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Itl be a lot smoother than before 
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Least I know how it comes on and goes offItl be a lot smoother than before
. Thing is tho @RangeRoller dt I try my absolute best still goes to sh#t but not a mechanic and learn along the way.
Is the inner dial not mm and the outer one fractions of a millimetre so both zero together?
The outer is indeed fractions and the smaller one mm but the outer dial is adjustable. So you push DTI in until it contacts the piston and then push in until 2 mm is registered on the inner dial. Then lock it in position. Then with inner dial showing 2 mm and locked at that position, you turn the outer dial to zero it. Then move pump to take the reading.
You'd think I would remember but until I am actually doing it I only have a vague memory of direction. That said, it must be a few years since I did the FIP on mine.
Do not confuse the instructions in RAVE for checking timing with the method of initial timing. Pump fitting, chain fitting and initial timing is done with engine locked at TDC at all times. Lock pin is not removed until cylinder head has been fitted and cam timed. Only then does RAVE checking pump timing come into play. And if my instructions have been followed this will not be required. Another thing that occurs to me is how the head has been stored. Some valves will be open or partially open with cam in place. These valves are VERY easy to bend if the head has not been stored on supports to prevent pressure on valves. It maybe an idea before refitting head to turn cam until valves on each cylinder are closed then pour paraffin into the ports to make sure there are no bent valves. An added complication i know but better to be sure rather than having to remove the head again. Placing two pieces of 3/8" dowel across block and gasket between cylinders when refitting head is a good method of replacing head. Remove one at a time when front case bolts have been engaged and head is aligned correctly. Dropping an open valve on the edge of a cylinder is not a good idea. And also the rear right hand head bolt MUST be inserted in head and held by an elastic band when head is re fitted as it cannot be fitted with head in place.
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RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
+1
My p38 was on its way to the scrapper. previous mechanic owner could get it to go 2miles then it would strop and have to be brought home on the lorry every time.
Was reluctant to let me to have it - Too spensive, not practically fixable, certainly not diy
I beep every time I drive past
+1
My p38 was on its way to the scrapper. previous mechanic owner could get it to go 2miles then it would strop and have to be brought home on the lorry every time.
Was reluctant to let me to have it - Too spensive, not practically fixable, certainly not diy
I beep every time I drive past
I'll bet he thinks you are a right smart arse.
Yep looks fine. With pump loose turn until timing marks line up on chain and fit it. Then finger tighten nuts, fit tensioner apply tension to chain. Nip nuts up as previously described. The rest you already know.
Lukas018
Well-Known Member
Thanks matePretty shit hot.
appreciate your help. Prob have some more queries later down the line
Thanks mate
No problem if i know the answer i will help.
I am still wondering how the inner dial reads 2 mm when you have that as a start point and you have added 0.95 turning pump towards engine.The inner dial should be reading just short of 3 mm. Did the outer dial drop away from zeroed 2 mm slightly as you moved pump towards engine. If it did, then when it stopped dropping you should have zeroed outer dial at that point, then set the 0.95mm . Hope that is clear enough.
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