I don't want to talk about the reliability issue that has been talked about a lot in every part of the planet. I found the car converted to coil springs and I will leave it like that because I don't like air suspensions, I never liked them on motorcycles, bicycles and cars. On motorcycles and bicycles they work at higher pressures and have a strange progression, from the spring you always know what to expect, I have always replaced the air suspensions with coil springs, and so have many of my friends who raced. In motocross the high quality suspensions are coil springs. In cars it is different because the air cushions have a large volume and work at lower pressures so they are more comfortable than the coil springs as well as having the advantage of having adjustable height, in my opinion useful on a cargo vehicle. The disadvantage is a greater roll and the "boat" effect that make the driving very filtered, in my opinion the coil springs make the driving more sincere and predictable. of all the cars with air suspensions that I have tried I appreciated the comfort but not the driving, they adapt to many situations but do not excel in anything. I respect those who use the EAS but I have never thought of removing the springs but probably in the future I will use a more braking hydraulics and remove the rear anti-roll bar to recover some travel, as I also did in the Nissan Terrano. The biggest problem I have now is with the brakes, after changing the caliper pistons, the oil and having bled the brakes twice in a row following the RAVE, I have little braking power on the front right wheel, I am thinking of a leak, the modulator, or some brake lines that need changing...
Fair point about the springs, check the rear brake lines between the body and the chassis, especially above the cross member above the rear axle. They do give up in that area👍
As for a front brake différence, the calipers may just be passed their use date. I have a tool at the garage that reads brake line pressures, it was really useful diagnosing a failed recon caliper after 6 months for a client after the van sat for a while unused after the repair 👍
Rebuilding your calipers can be hit and miss sometimes, although many have had successfully done so. I'd rather replace for factory recon units and certainly wouldn't take a chance rebuilding them on a clients car for guarantee reasons🤔
 
Fair point about the springs, check the rear brake lines between the body and the chassis, especially above the cross member above the rear axle. They do give up in that area👍
As for a front brake différence, the calipers may just be passed their use date. I have a tool at the garage that reads brake line pressures, it was really useful diagnosing a failed recon caliper after 6 months for a client after the van sat for a while unused after the repair 👍
Rebuilding your calipers can be hit and miss sometimes, although many have had successfully done so. I'd rather replace for factory recon units and certainly wouldn't take a chance rebuilding them on a clients car for guarantee reasons🤔
Thanks for the tip, I'll check the rear lines. So you're telling me that rebuilt calipers often don't work?
when I did it they seemed to slide well and there are no leaks. Do you recommend I get new ones?
 
If the brake lines to the back have never been changed, replace them as they will be rusty where you can not see them they are atleast 20years old, here are some pics of mine they were not leaking but crumbled when you tried to move the pipes
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I can’t see the picture properly and my memory isn’t the best but I’m guessing it’s on all models. There should be a nipple at the back of modulator somewhere at the bottom that people always miss. If in doubt with a p38 generally keep bleeding is a good rule of thumb
 
This is an excellent thread. Hats off to the OP for the work he's putting in.

I've never had a P38 but I really do like them, we saw a stunning one yesterday at Littlestone, the condition of it was fantastic, so much so that my son asked "why does that Range Rover look so different to others?" He'd never really seen a P38 and was amazed to learn that it was considerably older than my L322. His conclusion was "Looks cool" which I think is possibly the highest accolade you could achieve from a 14 year old. It had that beautiful v8 burble as it left too, absolute class.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll check the rear lines. So you're telling me that rebuilt calipers often don't work?
when I did it they seemed to slide well and there are no leaks. Do you recommend I get new ones?

The modulator can be a total bar-steward to get all air out. I used an Ezibleed kit when I replaced mine and flushed about 3 litres of DOT 4 through before pushing another 2 litres through the lines themselves.

Front lines are usually OK. As Brian says, rear lines are almost certainly shot if original. I'll bow to Mark's experience on the calipers. I have refurbed them in the past and they were a pig to do. Last lot I just exchanged for refurbed Lucas ones from Eurocarparts.
 
today i reversed the pipes that go to the modulator and the braking from left has moved to right, so i found the culprit, it's the modulator. Tonight i took it apart and took out four pistons, two of them had a lot of dirt on the bottom, the seals are cooked. tomorrow if i can i will take out the central cylinder. How can i find o-rings that fit?
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today i reversed the pipes that go to the modulator and the braking from left has moved to right, so i found the culprit, it's the modulator. Tonight i took it apart and took out four pistons, two of them had a lot of dirt on the bottom, the seals are cooked. tomorrow if i can i will take out the central cylinder. How can i find o-rings that fit?
God knows but you'll be one the few to find out and let us all know😎👍
 
today i reversed the pipes that go to the modulator and the braking from left has moved to right, so i found the culprit, it's the modulator. Tonight i took it apart and took out four pistons, two of them had a lot of dirt on the bottom, the seals are cooked. tomorrow if i can i will take out the central cylinder. How can i find o-rings that fit?View attachment 338165View attachment 338166View attachment 338167View attachment 338168View attachment 338169View attachment 338170

I've found Wych Bearings to be very helpful in finding o-rings if you give them the measurements and use. Brake fluid is a harsh fluid though.

Possibly ring Wabco in Buckingham, UK, although you will need the measurements as they threw all their drawings away years ago.
 
I had a lot of "fun" trying to get o rings for my Mustang injectors. Went to a specialist who told me that the measurements that are critical are the diameter and the cross section (how thick the rubber is). So you want to measure your Outer diameter and the thickness, that will give you the start point to fins something suitable. I think you'll need Vitron or EDPM but that will depend on what type of brake fluid you use.

Have a look at www.simplybearings.co.uk I'm sure they'll have something to suit. Typically, having written all that about the measurements, they quote inner and outer diameters on their site.

My only reservation in these statements is that your pictures appear to have square-edged o-rings which are a lot more rare; it might just be the age of them and the shape they've taken on but it looks uniform. I had to get one of those for a Mercedes PAS pump reservoir a few years back but fortunately it was a still available at the dealer for under £4 which was nice. I can't imaging LR will have the same stock levels somehow.

Good luck.
 
I had a lot of "fun" trying to get o rings for my Mustang injectors. Went to a specialist who told me that the measurements that are critical are the diameter and the cross section (how thick the rubber is). So you want to measure your Outer diameter and the thickness, that will give you the start point to fins something suitable. I think you'll need Vitron or EDPM but that will depend on what type of brake fluid you use.

Have a look at www.simplybearings.co.uk I'm sure they'll have something to suit. Typically, having written all that about the measurements, they quote inner and outer diameters on their site.

My only reservation in these statements is that your pictures appear to have square-edged o-rings which are a lot more rare; it might just be the age of them and the shape they've taken on but it looks uniform. I had to get one of those for a Mercedes PAS pump reservoir a few years back but fortunately it was a still available at the dealer for under £4 which was nice. I can't imaging LR will have the same stock levels somehow.

Good luck.
Thanks for the directions but as you noticed from the photos, these seals are square section, or even rectangular, they are 2mm high and 1mm thick and this is a problem, I don't know if a classic O-ring can fit. As material I will use EPDM since I use dot4 oil
 

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