Rock Basher
Well-Known Member
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- 191
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- On The Hill
Immobiliser fault.
Thank god you’re here…..Immobiliser fault.
Injector seals mate, gotta be worth a lookthe only thing I've noticed is that the fuel purge and use of accelerator seems to aid with starting when its not playing ball - but not consistently
No drives fine when it’s running. No loss of power or anything. After running starting again is pretty much guaranteed not to work though!!Injector seals mate, gotta be worth a look
Or fuel filter housing
If you can get it driving along, does it cut out?
Sounds like a rabbit hole worth chasing to meIt's very strange cos it doesnt show any rpm untill it started and then directly the idle speed, it's first time i see such thing
...is what I am talking about.and all the electrics go dark
Thanks! (And thank you to everyone that has replied so far).Don't think there is much I can add, except could there be an air leak somewhere, a tiny crack in the top of a fuel pipe or something or as @sierrafery says.....
Am I right in thinking that when you have the key turned and nothing is happening and all the lights dim, that must surely be an important short to earth?
...is what I am talking about.
If the new crank sensor doesn't sort it, I'd give the contacts in the starter and the associated wiring a good looking at and where it disappears into the loom, disconnect the two ends of each wire and make new ones up, connect these to where the original ones connected and thus by pass anything that could be causing the issue. i.e. chafing etc.
Could it possibly be something as simple as a fault at the ignition switch? I once had a car where if I turned the key too far it wouldn't start! Just plain wear, But could it possibly be sometimes bridging two contacts in there thus sending the juice to two places at once, or to the wrong place?
Clutching at straws I know. But I had my ignition switch preventing starting for a while.
Best of luck with it, mate!
I’ll update again when I’ve changed the CPS. I replaced the starter about a week ago with a new Denso unit as I originally thought it was that but doesn’t seem to have made any difference! The earth lead to the starter and ignition cable look ok - I couldn’t see any signs of chafing or wear near the starter itselfThese intemittent symptoms without a clear pattern are the worst, in most cases it's about a weak contact or chafed wire somewhere and can become very expensive to rule out... i had something quite similar myself long time ago, at that time i knew too little about D2s so replaced the crank sensor, fuel pump, filter head, engine bay fusebox, starter motor and ended up by replacing the ECU which didnt cure it then i changed the engine main harness with friggin' expensive new one and that was it... in your case with that strange rpm reading and the hystorical crank speed fault code my first suspect is the starter which disturbs the crank signal but wait untill it doesnt start again to read the rpm then
Have visually checked all all fuses and relays appear ok. I need to check with multimeter but unsure on exactly how to do that so will do some googling!Then the next suspect is the engine bay fusebox
Ok thank you - will try it that and hope, as you say, it’s not the harness!You can't really check that with multumeter as the problem occurs only under load while cranking, the only way to rule it out is to replace it with known good one, as first step you can check if all it's plugs are well connected and pins tight eventually use some contact spray on them... i hope your problem is not the same as mine was and the engine harness to be the culprit
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