Disco 2 Key ignition turning TD5 off

First off, new to the forum but couldn’t see a welcome yourself page. I’m new to discovery 2’s but had Land Rovers in the past. Glad to find a forum that seems friendly and approachable.

Bought a 2002 TD5 manual for towing and camping with my daughter. I’ve spent a couple of months doing a thorough service including:

All fluids
Complete coolant system change
Power steering pump
Full fuel system change (stand fast injectors, but I’ve done the seals)
New battery
Loads of other stuff too as I want it to be reliable

So long and short is the car is now back on the road and when running is sweet as a 23 year old car can be.

But…..

When I start the car 8/10 times the car will start up then immediately shut off as if the power has been pulled out of the car.

Now I’ve checked all the earths in the engine bay etc and new battery, fuel system is fine as it starts up like a dream.

It feels like the ignition switch is almost flicking back on its spring too much and going back to position 2 or something? I can’t seem to find anyone having the same issue that I do.

It definitely feels like a loose electrical connection as it’s like all power is just cut when it happens and a little wiggle of the key will sometimes bring it back to life if you catch it in time.

To get her started I have to turn the key, let it start up then gently release the key onto its “stops”. It’s a bit of a nuance but I’m worried it’ll develop into a no start at some point.

Does anyone know if there are internal electrical connections that can be adjusted or need decorrroding?

Firstly I think this is what you might have been looking for:
Secondly, if there is a spring in the switch (Which there must be) then there is also a mech to stop it pushing the rotating part of the switch back too far.

Having taken my ignition switch apart and refurbed it I seem to remember, there is a small ball bearing that acts to keep the switch in whichever place you want to leave it.
But if you take the "business end " off, i.e.e the bit with all the wires attached to, or almost all the wires, you'll find you can start it and drive it using a screw driver to turn the elongated slot in it. And I am pretty sure this is sprung internally as well.
I think I did a thread on this, which might or might not help.
I'll see if I can find it and put up a link for you, but there are other threads on this all over this site and others, so don't give up hope, it'll be sorted.
Replacement barrels etc are not expensive, you just have to faff about with fobs etc. Maybe!

Have a look here, there is bound to be summat in it for you.

This thread DOES mention the ball bearing.

Stanleysteamer said:

But if you take the "business end " off, i.e.e the bit with all the wires attached to, or almost all the wires, you'll find you can start it and drive it using a screw driver to turn the elongated slot in it. And I am pretty sure this is sprung internally as well.

Click to expand...

+1^^^ they are all made on the same principle as in the attachment,

Does anyone know if there are internal electrical connections that can be adjusted or need decorrroding?

Click to expand...

IMO you better buy a good used ignition harness from a scrapyard and get done with it , i couldn't find a part number for D2 loom, no matter how i search it comes only together with the barrel as new, they seem available only for D1 and RRC as STC1476, for D2 is THIS

Thanks everyone so far. Definitely feels like a wear issue then over a fault as such, from looking through the other posts about ignitions I seem to have got off lightly as my key still turns and I can pull it in and out!

I’ve got two cars as this one is the weekend adventure car so I will try to pull this ignition assembly apart and “service it” I’m and electro-mechanical engineer by trade so I always like to try and fix something before replacement.

If I need a new lock barrel I’ve seen that you can replace the barrel with a D1 barrel? Also happy to know there is an “emergency start” procedure with a screwdriver if required

I was thinking a quick test may be pop the switch off and see if the fault lies with the ignition switch over the lock barrel assembly.

I had the same issue with my Motorhome, the slightest touch and it would shut down, plus I had trouble starting it in cold weather as the key would not stay in the correct position it constantly turn anti clockwise and shut down the glow plugs, I simply replaced the complete ignition barrel, replacing the new key barrel with my original key barrel so I could keep my original electronic key, it cost more for the security bolts than the barrel but I never had the problem again,

So the issue is getting worse with the keys now seriously hard to get into the barrel, so I’ve bought a discovery 1 ignition switch (Pt Number STC1435) and I needed 2 new key fobs anyway. So my intention is…..
1) to get the new fobs programmed in with my Nanocom.
2) replace the ignition switch with the D1 unit
3) ensure car starts etc
4) get the new fobs cut with the new ignition switches pattern
5) get a set of “door keys” cut to keep with the driving keys encase I get locked out.

Once all the parts are here I’ll do a little write up with pictures as some of the current PDFs aren’t on the servers anymore.

Safest to say I’ve got all the tools to remove the steering lock and turn it into a screwdriver start if it fully packs up before the parts show up!

Best of luck mate!

So little update it was a combination of a worn ignition barrel (that already had been replaced), terrible connection on the common 12v input (brown wire in center) and the ignition switch internals being fully worn out and corroded.

So changed it out with a D1 ignition barrel, I was going to just re-pin the D1 to the D2 but the wires were already tighter than I would like so I just went for a dirty cut and splice after confirming the D1s switch wires did the same as the D2.

Super easy job and I’ll do a little write up when I have time as I took loads of pictures. Just need to fire up the Nano com and program in the new key fobs I bought and get them cut to match the new lock barrel. I’ll then get a couple of keys cut for the door lock as I don’t want to be left short if the fob or receiver ever packs up